I have had a "bank 1 and 2 lean" code come up. Im thinking possibly due to the module. It is rare and usually goes away after a while. There have been gadgets such as " pulse wave modules" that some people install. Also oxygen sensor deflectors. I dont bother with those. Been running the vehicle for about 3 years and 30000 miles now with no problems. Only differences are cleaner oil changes, smoother idle and the lean code every once in a while. My jeep as well as my vette are carburetted. At tempurature the idle is higher. If I unplug the module from the carb air cleaner, idle drops. Obviously more horsepower there with a dumb carb. P.S. watch out for the men in black

 

Ops regarding heating the water, during electrolysis, the water heats itself. Actually its a challenge trying to cool the water in summertime. Using heat sinks where the electrical hookups attach. 30 plus amps going through the wires at times sometimes melting the actual module housing. Lots of experimentation. Havent hooked up a pump and small radiator. I think that might do the trick although more gadgets to attach to the mechanism. With tap water, the contaminants are sufficient electrolyte for reaction and can be operated from one to two hours with 72 degree ambient tempurature without overheating. A thermostat controlled unit would be ideal. All this might sound greek but as you investigate, it will all make sense. Water electrolysis is early 1900 technology. The invention of stainless steel makes it more practical.