Folks,
I'm looking for input from the community as to which of the following wheel sizes will fit without clearance issues on a stock'08 H3 Alpha:
[ol][*]17 x 8 +10mm offset 100.5mm hub bore[*]17 x 8+18mm offset 108mm hub bore[*]17 x 8 +30mm offset 100.5mm hub bore[*]18 x 9 +10mm offset 108mm hub bore[*]18 x 9+18mm offset 106.25mm hub bore[*]18 x 9 +30mm offset 100.5mm hub bore[/ol]
Did anyone use a hubcentric ring to center the wheels on the hubs?

I plan on putting on new tires in one of the following sizes:

[ol][*]for the 17 x 8 wheels: 285/70R17[*]for the 18 x 9 wheels: 265/70R18[/ol]

I have already verified that the rim width range of the tires will work with the indicated wheel sizes.

Would appreciate any and all feedback.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

 

I'm surprised there aren't any wheel/tire experts here in the forum...

I already did many searches to see what wheel size/offset/hub bore people are using and if they're having any vibration issues, but came up with nothing. Hence the reason for my post.

Are the answers here so obvious that I'm missing something?

 

I use a +12 offset and I have no problems with 35" tires rubbing or anything. Although, I had to lift it a notch to prevent light rubbing on my mud flaps.

Your clearance is going to depend greatley on which exact tires you chose, I've heard of other members running also 35"s on where they were rubbing seriously and then some who doesn't have any rubbage using the same sized tire.

 

sorry for the delay,I'm just getting tired of answering the same damn question for the past year and a half.

Stock rims are +38 offset, anything less than that will not rub but will stick out. I am running +12 and my 35's stick out about 2 inches. There will be no clearance issues with any of the rims you listed because all the ones listed will push the rims out from the control arms. The tire sizes you list are stock sizes...so no issues. You can run a 35to a small 36 " tire with NO issues.

also all this info is listed in the FAQ section

 

Unless the '08's have changed, the H3 runs a hub bore of 107mm, so your choices #1, 3, and 6 won't work, as the center bore isn't large enough. You might be able to run the 106.25 bore, but you'd need tomeasure your own hubs, and confirm the tollerances on the manufactures wheels.


Of your choices, it looks like #2 is your best bet, but keep looking as other options will present themselves if your not overly anxious. Look at 18" wheels sizes as well, I found the size I wanted in an 18" versus the 16"-17"-20" sizes.

 

Thanks Crushem - that's the type of specific info I was looking for, but couldn't find thrusearching. I'm targetting either 17 or 18 inch wheels; nothing larger, nothing smaller.

Somewhere else I saw that the H3 hub bore was 100mm, but I wasn't convinced that it was correct.
I've seen others on this (or other)forum(s) identify that the wheel bore should be "large bore" without any reference to the exact size. Now it's clear as tothe minimum bore size that will work. Hopefully others will also find this info useful when searching for new wheels.

On my other vehicles (fairly high-performance cars), I've used hubcentric rings to exactly center the wheel on the hub, to ensure that the money spent on the Hunter Roadforce GSP9700 balancing wasn't wasted by an off-center mount onto the vehicle. As some folks have come to find out with other vehicles, the difference that this makes is felt at highway speeds, with a smooth-as-glass result that ensures good control at those speeds. Some might consider it a waste for a vehicle like the H3, but I'm considering it again- the vibration at highway speeds on my new Alpha is not acceptable, but then again not unexpected considering the comments I've seen from others with new GY rubber. New 33" rubber and new 17/18" wheels are going on as soon as I narrow down what fits and what doesn't.

I also wanted to see what people are using for offsets, since too much backspace/offset will run into the suspension, and little offset will allow larger tires to hit something during full suspension travel and/or put excessive stress on the wheel bearings over time.

If anyone else has wheel fitting details that they're willing to share with me and others in this forum, please do so.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

I am 110% sure that the hub bore is 100.6mm. At least it is on my 06.All the guides from the wheel manufactures state that it is 106.25mm but it is wrong.Measure yours and you will see!

Also here are the factory specs-

[blockquote][/blockquote]Wheels/Tires

[blockquote]Size - 16x7.5 in
Bolt pattern - 6@5.5” (139.7mm)
Backspacing - 6 in
Offset - 30 mm (1.18 in) negative
Centerbore - 100.6
Tire size (Base) - 31.6 in, P265/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler RTS
Tire size (Adventure) - 32.9 in, LT285/75R16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T

[/blockquote][/align]

 

Hey guys, gals... Maybe this will help. [/align]H2 03-07 HUB 125 0-15 OFFSET[/align]H2 SUT 05-07 125 0-15 OFFSET[/align]H3 BASE LUXURY/ 06-07 108 25-35 HIGH OFFSET[/align]H3 ADVENTURE/06-07 HUB 108 25-35 HIGH OFFSET[/align]

 

[font=arial][size=2]
O.K. Let's see if I got this straight.

1. Waynesoffroad is referring to a spec that I saw on another forum that the hub bore in the factory wheels is 100.6mm, which to me indicates that the factory wheels are hubcentric for a 100mm hub diameter.

2. Four others areinferring that we shouldget wheels with a bore of anywhere from 106to 108mm. Doing so tells me that folks are relying on a lug-centric fit instead of a hubcentric fit. From my past experience, I know that on some cars this can lead to excessive vibrations at higher speeds, since the wheel might not be perfectly centered around the hub.

From scouring the web, I found out the following:

1. The H3 has a “wide hub diameter hub, like a Toyota or Nissan 4x4.” I saw warnings not to order a 6x5.5 bolt circle wheel designated as ‘HC’ (hub centric) or with any other footnote indicating a hub-centric GM truck fitment. Apparently, these specific wheels will only work on the 1/2-ton truck platform and will not fit the H3! For several years, the aftermarket has been building hub-centric wheels for GM trucks. Info elsewhere on the web indicated that the H3 hub diameter is 100 mm (compared to 78 mm for full-size trucks), which is more than 20 mm larger. That means if you try to install a wheel that is labeled “6-5.5 GM hub-centric” on the H3, the wheel will not fit over the hub but, instead, rest on the outside edge. We need a “large-bore” wheel, usually 4.25 inch (108mm), which would normally fit Nissan and Toyota 4x4s.

2. Most H3s with aftermarket wheels installed don’t seem to have centric rings installed. Centric rings are used to help center the lug-centric aftermarket wheel onto the hub so it fits like the (hubcentric) OE (factory) H3 wheel. Many vehicles, including SUVs (like the H3?) can be sensitive to small amounts of runout.

Installing centric rings will solve many vibration issues. I will soon be measuring the centerbore diameter of the factory wheels (and the actual hub diameter) on my ’08 Alpha with a dial caliper before I order the proper centric ring. (FYI- if the thickness of a centric ring is comparable to the thickness of an aluminum soda can, it will provide about the same amount of rigidity; in that case the ring will be too thin to center the wheel.) Assuming that the hub dia actually turns out to be 100mm, I will look for wheels with a 108mm centerbore and purchase 108-100mm centric rings (4mm wall thickness should be adequately thick.)

If proper installation procedures are not followed, the gap between the hub and wheel centerbore can allow the wheel to be installed slightly off center. This creates a condition that may cause the vehicle itself to wobble at very slow speeds, say 10-15 mph. In some cases, the wobble is so subtle that the driver may not notice anything until the brakes are applied, or driving at highway speeds.

Guidelines for installing lug-centric (aftermarket) wheels with centric rings:

1. Place the wheel on the hub.
2. Start each fastener (lug nut or lug bolt) by hand.
3. Rotate the wheel after you tighten each fastener (by hand, not with an impact gun!).
4. Bump against the tire with your hand and keep tightening the fastener, allowing each one to seat into the wheel until you can no longer turn the fastener.
5. Use a lug wrench to apply a little more torque on the fastener.
6. Lower the vehicle to the ground and finish the torque with a calibrated torque wrench set to manufacturer spec.


BTW - Ilocated a supplier ofhubcentric rings (in both plastic and aluminum) that adapt a 108mm hub bore in the wheel to a 100mm hub diameter. IfI confirm that the hub dia is indeed 100mm, I'll target wheels with 108mm hub bore and look into using these hubcentric rings.

Anybody find this post useful? Anybody agree or d

 

I do agree rhino... It really sounds like you are looking a little bit too far into this, My suggestion would be take it to a local wheel and tire shop (if avail) and let the EXPERTS do their thing. Hence you want to get this right for your own knowledge they should be able to tell you the ins ands outs. Good luck! Hopeall is well.