shifter bushing kit
#11
Hey all,
Sorry about the delay. Between not feeling well (stomach bug) and all the little flying gnats that swarm in right as I get home from work and walk out side, ripping my flesh off (no joke)... I was able to finally able to get under my rig to see exactly the nut that I used (since the fix was like 2 years ago)
So the 35 cent shifter fix is :
Needa Parts Nylon Nut Assortment 961-355: Buy the right Professional Installer Assortments at Advance Auto Parts
I dont remember which one it was but I got the assortment. From there I found the one the would fit into the opening of the shift cable end. The flat side of the nut goes towards the trans area and the 4 teeth slide into the opening. You might actually feel it snap into place... at least mine did. Once the nut is in the opening, you push the rod through the cable end opening into the nut. It will be a very tight fit, and looks very stock.
I used a pair of channel locks to compress the shift level even further into the nylon nut. You have to remember that alot of this was done in the parking lot of the auto store since I was working from arms distance and on my back
When finished it was definitely connected and it moved like stock.
When I went under to inspect it today, it looked exactly like it did when I put it in 2 years ago.
Hope this helps
Sorry about the delay. Between not feeling well (stomach bug) and all the little flying gnats that swarm in right as I get home from work and walk out side, ripping my flesh off (no joke)... I was able to finally able to get under my rig to see exactly the nut that I used (since the fix was like 2 years ago)
So the 35 cent shifter fix is :
Needa Parts Nylon Nut Assortment 961-355: Buy the right Professional Installer Assortments at Advance Auto Parts
I dont remember which one it was but I got the assortment. From there I found the one the would fit into the opening of the shift cable end. The flat side of the nut goes towards the trans area and the 4 teeth slide into the opening. You might actually feel it snap into place... at least mine did. Once the nut is in the opening, you push the rod through the cable end opening into the nut. It will be a very tight fit, and looks very stock.
I used a pair of channel locks to compress the shift level even further into the nylon nut. You have to remember that alot of this was done in the parking lot of the auto store since I was working from arms distance and on my back
When finished it was definitely connected and it moved like stock.
When I went under to inspect it today, it looked exactly like it did when I put it in 2 years ago.
Hope this helps
Last edited by jsbihn; 03-19-2014 at 05:19 PM.
#14
Yeah, well I would say the trusty vise grip is a better this to keep.
1) its a tool and 2) you can use it if this breaks.
These arent as easy as getting a vise grip on it
But in the two years and 30k+ Miles I have driven..... No issues.
Like I said, if it breaks, I am just going with my 100% perma-fix and between the perma-fix and the nylox nut.... I still have less invested then that plastic thing that was linked to in earlier posts
1) its a tool and 2) you can use it if this breaks.
These arent as easy as getting a vise grip on it
But in the two years and 30k+ Miles I have driven..... No issues.
Like I said, if it breaks, I am just going with my 100% perma-fix and between the perma-fix and the nylox nut.... I still have less invested then that plastic thing that was linked to in earlier posts
#18
And here is a picture of the end result .
What i did first Is i push a nut by itself just to see how far it takes to lock into place . I took the nut out and followed what JSBHIN did and finaly got it done ;-) ...
What i did first Is i push a nut by itself just to see how far it takes to lock into place . I took the nut out and followed what JSBHIN did and finaly got it done ;-) ...
Last edited by hmer; 03-21-2014 at 08:29 PM.
#19
my new h3
Hey im sorry im new to the hummer communityarejust purchased an h3 with 71000 miles, it is a beast! However there is a rattle / ticking at 1900 rpms unsure of what it is. It only happens at that rpm... But only when im driving.. Could it be the cat converter? My underbody protection is tight , manifold shield is tight, all o2 sensors are tight,,.all heat shields are good.. In the cabin it sounds like its coming from the floor behind the glove box,, ive been bangin my head all day please help
New member scott
New member scott
#20
Hey im sorry im new to the hummer communityarejust purchased an h3 with 71000 miles, it is a beast! However there is a rattle / ticking at 1900 rpms unsure of what it is. It only happens at that rpm... But only when im driving.. Could it be the cat converter? My underbody protection is tight , manifold shield is tight, all o2 sensors are tight,,.all heat shields are good.. In the cabin it sounds like its coming from the floor behind the glove box,, ive been bangin my head all day please help
New member scott
New member scott
I think you'd get better results if you posted this by starting a new thread back in the main room.