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shifter bushing kit

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  #11  
Old 03-19-2014, 05:16 PM
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Hey all,
Sorry about the delay. Between not feeling well (stomach bug) and all the little flying gnats that swarm in right as I get home from work and walk out side, ripping my flesh off (no joke)... I was able to finally able to get under my rig to see exactly the nut that I used (since the fix was like 2 years ago)

So the 35 cent shifter fix is :


Needa Parts Nylon Nut Assortment 961-355: Buy the right Professional Installer Assortments at Advance Auto Parts

I dont remember which one it was but I got the assortment. From there I found the one the would fit into the opening of the shift cable end. The flat side of the nut goes towards the trans area and the 4 teeth slide into the opening. You might actually feel it snap into place... at least mine did. Once the nut is in the opening, you push the rod through the cable end opening into the nut. It will be a very tight fit, and looks very stock.
I used a pair of channel locks to compress the shift level even further into the nylon nut. You have to remember that alot of this was done in the parking lot of the auto store since I was working from arms distance and on my back
When finished it was definitely connected and it moved like stock.
When I went under to inspect it today, it looked exactly like it did when I put it in 2 years ago.

Hope this helps
 

Last edited by jsbihn; 03-19-2014 at 05:19 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-19-2014, 07:11 PM
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Thanks alot man :-) ...
 
  #13  
Old 03-20-2014, 12:49 AM
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Great info, probably a good thing to keep on hand in the truck in case it happens when you're out and about.
 
  #14  
Old 03-20-2014, 06:29 AM
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Yeah, well I would say the trusty vise grip is a better this to keep.
1) its a tool and 2) you can use it if this breaks.
These arent as easy as getting a vise grip on it

But in the two years and 30k+ Miles I have driven..... No issues.
Like I said, if it breaks, I am just going with my 100% perma-fix and between the perma-fix and the nylox nut.... I still have less invested then that plastic thing that was linked to in earlier posts
 
  #15  
Old 03-20-2014, 08:17 PM
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Jsbihn , Once again thanks alot ;-) .....
 
  #16  
Old 03-21-2014, 06:22 AM
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No problem.
Were you able to get it done?
 
  #17  
Old 03-21-2014, 07:50 PM
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JSBIHN yes i did get it done ;-) thanks a million ...
If anyone wants to go to AutoZone and get this nylon nuts here is a picture of what you are looking for .
 
  #18  
Old 03-21-2014, 08:23 PM
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And here is a picture of the end result .

What i did first Is i push a nut by itself just to see how far it takes to lock into place . I took the nut out and followed what JSBHIN did and finaly got it done ;-) ...
 

Last edited by hmer; 03-21-2014 at 08:29 PM.
  #19  
Old 03-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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Default my new h3

Hey im sorry im new to the hummer communityarejust purchased an h3 with 71000 miles, it is a beast! However there is a rattle / ticking at 1900 rpms unsure of what it is. It only happens at that rpm... But only when im driving.. Could it be the cat converter? My underbody protection is tight , manifold shield is tight, all o2 sensors are tight,,.all heat shields are good.. In the cabin it sounds like its coming from the floor behind the glove box,, ive been bangin my head all day please help

New member scott
 
  #20  
Old 03-21-2014, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by wolfey09H3
Hey im sorry im new to the hummer communityarejust purchased an h3 with 71000 miles, it is a beast! However there is a rattle / ticking at 1900 rpms unsure of what it is. It only happens at that rpm... But only when im driving.. Could it be the cat converter? My underbody protection is tight , manifold shield is tight, all o2 sensors are tight,,.all heat shields are good.. In the cabin it sounds like its coming from the floor behind the glove box,, ive been bangin my head all day please help

New member scott
Hi Scott, welcome to the site!

I think you'd get better results if you posted this by starting a new thread back in the main room.
 


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