service stability system traction failed reduced power
#11
Took off throttle body and cleaned.
MAF, map sensor clean
PVC and Air Filter good
unplugged and reconnected
BCM is dry
Only code was p2101
She ran great yesterday
Battery cables are clean and tight.
Battery was dead as a hammer this morning so I'm thinking that may be where this all started.
MAF, map sensor clean
PVC and Air Filter good
unplugged and reconnected
BCM is dry
Only code was p2101
She ran great yesterday
Battery cables are clean and tight.
Battery was dead as a hammer this morning so I'm thinking that may be where this all started.
#13
I'm at the mechanic right now
The mechanic is checking the car as I write this.
Since I read online that problem is electrical and to check wires, I decided to just start grabbing wires and move them a bit, just to see.
When I moved the wires and relay for bass pump, right where the manifold goes, the car hesitated like crazy and even turned off twice. Then a sign came up: TRACTION FAILED SERVICE TABS SYS. And Then I got codes P0106, P0107, C0268
I told a mechanic what I'd did and he was able to replicate the hesitation three times.
The mechanic has been checking everything by the manifold but nothing so far. They took the manifold out and a cover on the right side tire. NOTHING! But every time he moves those wires the car hesitates and or shuts off.
It's taking a long day but it seems that I was able to find what professional mechanics and the dealer where I bought the car could not since May 2014.
This is ridiculous.
I'll take any suggestions if possible right at this moment because the car is right at the mechanic
Since I read online that problem is electrical and to check wires, I decided to just start grabbing wires and move them a bit, just to see.
When I moved the wires and relay for bass pump, right where the manifold goes, the car hesitated like crazy and even turned off twice. Then a sign came up: TRACTION FAILED SERVICE TABS SYS. And Then I got codes P0106, P0107, C0268
I told a mechanic what I'd did and he was able to replicate the hesitation three times.
The mechanic has been checking everything by the manifold but nothing so far. They took the manifold out and a cover on the right side tire. NOTHING! But every time he moves those wires the car hesitates and or shuts off.
It's taking a long day but it seems that I was able to find what professional mechanics and the dealer where I bought the car could not since May 2014.
This is ridiculous.
I'll take any suggestions if possible right at this moment because the car is right at the mechanic
Last edited by gp1182; 09-29-2014 at 01:26 PM.
#14
P0106 is map sensor, it is located on drivers side rear on intake manifold, This is either good or bad and cleaning it will not solve issues. You can check this with vac.pump and watch voltage change as vacuum is applied. This is totally different from maf sensor located on intake tube
#15
2006 H3 Adv. 87,000 miles, owned 4 weeks. CLEAN! Like new all over and under. We drove it to the grocery store, got back in and this started. Limp mode all the way home, let it sit for an hour, cranked it up and its gone. Runs fine now but for how long. So it just reset itself as if it never happened.
Obviously I'm not the first one this has happened to but it seems like everything I read was something different or a bunch of maybe this or that. Some of the posts are 5 years old too. I do also have a passenger side power seat switch malfunctioning and just went through all 4 sunroof drains (floor was damp). Any ideas of what it usually is. Where to start? Connections to anything else?
I don't have a code reader to plug it into.
Any experienced help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,
Obviously I'm not the first one this has happened to but it seems like everything I read was something different or a bunch of maybe this or that. Some of the posts are 5 years old too. I do also have a passenger side power seat switch malfunctioning and just went through all 4 sunroof drains (floor was damp). Any ideas of what it usually is. Where to start? Connections to anything else?
I don't have a code reader to plug it into.
Any experienced help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,
I do not understand why peeps throw out codes and what to do about them when your OP has no code mentioned?????? Your problem is electrical, not mechanical.
It can come from 3-4 different areas. Based upon your info, a wet BCM from the sunroof drains being plugged is one.
Do you still have the OEM for crap battery terminal connectors? If you do, get rid of them ASAP and replace with a quality aftermarket set to rule out that all too common cause of electrical gremlins.
Check battery cranking volts, a battery that is on its way out can cause your issues.
Limp mode is a default safety feature, if it kicked in without a CEL, it makes it more difficult to trace its cause. This will happen when there is any conflict between the PPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), and also from a speed sensor failure. Long explanation not needed.
Serv Stab & Traction Failed can come from a bad TCCM which is located next to the BCM and does not like to get wet either. It has been related to a bad T Case Encoder motor as well if it gets too wet (like stuck in deep water wet).
Best I can suggest without a code for a one time incident is the battery terminals and battery itself. At this point, not much you can do about a BCM or TCCM that got wet except hope they don't puke. If the problem becomes persistent, then you may look further.
Once you reported a code, then check back at Hummerz post and get rid of the OEM battery terminal connectors.
Good luck.
Last edited by Doc Olds; 09-30-2014 at 10:11 AM.
#16
Took off throttle body and cleaned.
MAF, map sensor clean
PVC and Air Filter good
unplugged and reconnected
BCM is dry
Only code was p2101
She ran great yesterday
Battery cables are clean and tight.
Battery was dead as a hammer this morning so I'm thinking that may be where this all started.
MAF, map sensor clean
PVC and Air Filter good
unplugged and reconnected
BCM is dry
Only code was p2101
She ran great yesterday
Battery cables are clean and tight.
Battery was dead as a hammer this morning so I'm thinking that may be where this all started.
If so, there is no such thing as "tight", they just SUCK!!!!!
#17
I apologize for being a peep doc i promise not to throw out any more suggestions as they seem to be nothing more than mouth dribble to you. If you take some time to read the previous post by gp1182 you would have understood my response. I will refer all questions back to you as you are not only the moderator but a know it all
#18
I apologize for being a peep doc i promise not to throw out any more suggestions as they seem to be nothing more than mouth dribble to you. If you take some time to read the previous post by gp1182 you would have understood my response. I will refer all questions back to you as you are not only the moderator but a know it all
What I was trying to sarcastically emphasize is, when a post asks questions A, or say A & B, why do so many people end up talking about Q, R, S and T?
Last edited by Doc Olds; 09-30-2014 at 04:25 PM.
#19
No I have not changed the battery cable ends yet, but its on the list to happen this next weekend. The battery being dead the other morning was unrelated, wife left dome light on by accident. Charged it, had it tested all is good.
Truck is still running good too. No more codes. Nothing at all out of the ordinary. I unplugged and cleaned everything I could get my hands on. Wiggled everything. fingers crossed!
Thanks for all the info. It helped me get an idea of where to look. I will re-post if anything new happens.
If anyone is interested I did run new hoses out the floor on my front sunroof drains and was able to cut trim the ends of the rear ones without removing the rear fender flare. I just dropped the end fender rubber down and had plenty of access. They all drain like they are supposed to now!
Truck is still running good too. No more codes. Nothing at all out of the ordinary. I unplugged and cleaned everything I could get my hands on. Wiggled everything. fingers crossed!
Thanks for all the info. It helped me get an idea of where to look. I will re-post if anything new happens.
If anyone is interested I did run new hoses out the floor on my front sunroof drains and was able to cut trim the ends of the rear ones without removing the rear fender flare. I just dropped the end fender rubber down and had plenty of access. They all drain like they are supposed to now!
#20
If everything is working properly, the Dome Light should have turned off in 20 minutes due to the power save feature. If you leave the key in the ignition, especially if you have multiple keys on the ring, I have had the switch rotate to the ON position before. Good Luck.
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