My radio just started drawing 4 amps even when turned off. This quickly drains my battery. Does anyone know what the problem is and how to fix it? I have an H2, purchased new in 2003.

 

I would say that either your amp or your radio has some type of short.

Does the radio shut off when the door is opened still? Did you notice anything different or just all at once? DOes the clock stay dimly lit?

 

How did you determine it is the Radio pulling the Current...Did you install an inline ammeter on the power lead?

 

The radio, clockand amp work OK - so I think the problem is with something else on the same power bus. I measured the current with an amp meter at the battery. I measured the current before and after removing the two fuses for the radio and amp.

 

Then you did what I would have done..I would now take it to the dealer..because any further attempts to isolate the current draw may cause youtroubles thatthe dealer could blame on you and void the warranty..good luck

 

I believe the 2003 H2 is no longer under warranty. I know Nick's isn't.

 

What about your second audio source in the console??

 

I was looking on here for tips on what might have made my battery drain and found this thread. As I had my hummer parked for around 2 weeks and went to start it one day and found the battery dead. I was almost thinking I had something draining my battery too and didnt want to hook up a $200 yellow top optima only to run it down again over night, until I tried this(please read below).

[blockquote]
When I was checking for current (amperage draw on the H3 with it shut off)with the same set up, I heard my radio as if it was searching for disks the instant I touched the leads. Then I took all ofthe CDsout, and realized it was moreso of a startup thing when I first reconnected the power because it did it every time. My total draw was at first around 2 amps, then after the radio cycled and waited another 15 seconds, my draw dropped to 0.6 amps. Then to my suprise with me still holding the meter to the terminal and battery after another 15 seconds it dropped down to around 0.2 amps(which is what it, or any car should be). [/blockquote]

What was actually happening is I was testing for a "draw of current" for only around 5 or 10 seconds at first(not long enough). Everyone else checking for current draw be warned because waiting 40-60 seconds is not something you would normally do. In fact the $15 dollar multimeter I bought at Advanced Auto in the manual says to limit the time to so many seconds when checking for amperage in the 10amp range because you could damage the meter.

With actually holding the connection and it dropping down to 0.2 amps, I'm thinking I might have just had an almost dead battery like everyone else on here and there's no real extra "draw" on it parked. By the way I did a test against my MR2 which doesnt have cruise control, much less OnStar, power seats, 4x4 modules, etc, and it measured around 0.2 amps as well.

I'm sure having a 470watt kicker amp drained the factory delcobattery over time even though its only an '06(2 yr old battery). By the way I've had the Amp and subs around 6 months.

 

I went thru the exact same problem and it was my igntion switch. I would not hesitate to put a new one in. They are pretty cheap.