I know there are alot of good cold air intakes for the H3's, but has anyone had any success with running any additional intake tubes near the front end to suck in more air?

Also, what are some of the mods for the stock intake that can be done, instead of upgrading. I read some posts regarding the resonator and such, and just curious exactly what can be done...

Thanks...

 

the simple flashing metal mod i did backfired when my h3 reved high from a stuck floormat. the fast air flo sucked the thin metal and bent it blocking some air and caused a rough idle and codes.

the metal was just allowed to unroll from its spring tension. not like a solid can or tube so it deformed.

im reluctant to use ANY tYpe of rivit or fastener that could get sucked in and cause serious trouble.
i think the simple concept is valid but the current design is NOT. I PULLED THE PARTS FOR NOW

 

Ok, so are there any DYI mods for the intake? i.e., Modification of the air box? resonator? custom intake tubing to draw in more air? Anyone try anything? To be honest, I'm not necessarily looking for HP, rather just the "throaty" sound that open intake gives....

 

If you just want it to be loud, I guess just remove the top of the airbox and put a straight pipe in place of the resonator.

Sucks to hear the simple metal flashing mod backfired, I was ready to do it myself. Maybe do a thicker gauge metal and epoxy it in place. I'll probably try that.

Performance wise I still think the factory tubing is sized properly.

 

yeah,the first try was just a simple roll of metal with an inch overlap and cut to fit flush with the in flange of the resonator. if it were welded like a cylinder and a snug fit it would be ok. the only problem was a fast,high rev to the rev limit which sucked the edge inwards and bent it,causing a partial blockage.

i had no way of testing mpg results in this crappy "algore"winter so i pulled it, for now.

the advantage of this simple,no cost method is that it looks stock and can be pulled in a minute
if dealer svc work is needed.
btw i also had a piece cut to fit nice in the accordion flex section letting it still provide the important vibration duty.

hard to know what is best,the large opening WITH the rough accordion edges ,or the slightly smaller but smooth liner.

remember ANY loose,small part will be sucked in and could cause serious problems. thats why im reluctant to pop rivit the roll of metal.

now if the right size "bean can" had both ends cut out,,,!

many yrs ago that can,sliced down the side would be wrapped around a leaky tail pipe and held with a hose clamp! temp hill billy fix!!

i better get out

 

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/s...ghlight=intake

 

wont removing the top of the box actually cause more air to escape?