More warm air does not make more HP/TQ. The turbulance created at the filter does not help either. The power is made through pulling in air from outside the underhood heated engine compartment. Take the lid off if you think that is the answer, only when outside air temps are below 50F. Can't run a 2008 and up with the lid off, she no gonna work.
2006/07s have a narrow air filter box inlet snorkel, the 2008s and up are much better and do not need to improved to adaquatley feed the air demand. Any intake that replaces the factory bottle neck air filter box inlet snorkel for the 06/07 with a funnel shaped larger inlet, will significantly increase flow and keep the intake temp at ambient +/- 3F.

I think the so caused over oiling issues with oil gauzed filters is over rated. Never had an issue in any application yet, but I guess anything is possible.

The factory intake system flows poorly, that much we have indisputable numbers on. It is all about muffling sound, and robs power. Power is made by intake charge velocity and volume. Volume is impacted by temp. and velocity is determined by shape.

 

Thanks for the reply... as I understand it is the unrestricted flow of cold air (if there is such a thing were I live!!!) (cool air being more dense than warm air there for more O2, so more bang and more go ) and your CAI give a better flow of air to the intakes.
I have the concept now... so one last question ... will the stock air filter fit the Air Docs and if so does it defeat the purpose of your CAI system (restrict the airflow too much)????? And if so...which air filter should I get???
Thanks for all your info, just sent you an email requesting the Paypal invoice

 

All my toys have arrived!
BFG 285/75R16 A/T
Put on the Zoomers exhaust… lovely!
Air Doc CAI is installed (- the K & N air filter that I have ordered but has not arrived ☹)
And the HP Tuners flash software with a tune from PCMforless… Fantastic! All top quality and easy to install. It is like driving a new machine!
I now want to crank the torsion bars and put on new shocks. I will order Bilstein front shocks with Trail Duty Extended Bump Stops. http://www.trailduty.com/product_inf...roducts_id=765
I was wondering if anyone on this forum has installed this combination and which size of bump stops (1/2” or 1”) you installed. I am also looking at getting Edelbrock Performer IAS Shocks for the rear. http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...A2714A0A0.aspx
Has anyone found any real negatives with cranking the torsion bars? Ok I did a search but can’t seem to find any definite negatives? (Like has anyone really had any wind bumping (if that is what it is called) through the sun roof?)
The only problem I can see is figuring out how to adjust the factory/dealer installed off road lights for the higher front end. Any Ideas or do I have to take off the whole molding to adjust them? Thanks for all of your help

 

I cranked my t bars about 5 turns on each side so I'm almost level front to back. I used the 1/2 inch bumpstops which got me to within 1/4 inch of the a arm which is close enough for me. If I went with the 1 inch they probably would have popped out if I hit a hard bump. I got bilstiens all around and they helped the ride keeping it from dipping when stopping or squatting when accelerating.

 

Thanks for the info motley1987.
I think I'll go with the 1/2" bump stops also.
As for the rear shocks I will give the people at Trail Duty a call and see what they have available.

 

What are the tune files you mentioned?

Thanks,

Mike

06 Hummer H3

 

This may help you understand. Your spark, fuel and timing curves are all set in a flash memory inside of your Power Control Module (PCM). Add to that Variable Valve Timing, a battery of sensor input, and tramsmission shift point control, your PCM runs it all.

GM has the tune set to soccer mon/hockey dad mode.... down the middle of the road so to speak resulting in a stock 3 having the drivability of a saddled slug!

You can tune/adjust the PCM to make power earlier, hold shifts longer, shift quicker/firmer, increase the kick down speed, and take full advantage of what the motor is safely capable of, and full advantage of other modifications like larger tires (recalibrate the speedo), intake (increase fuel mixture to compensate for the additional denser air charge now avalable), and exhaust (what gos in faster can go out faster too). You get the idea. HP tuners is just the program used to set a tune stored in the PCM.

Visit this site and search for many others out there. http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...tpage&Itemid=1

 

Thanks, I pretty much understand how the tool is used but I couldn't find any reference to the files captkirk mentioned.

I assume you can buy a flash image file from them as a starting point, rather than starting from scratch?

Is that what the tuner file is?

Thanks

Mike

06 Hummer H3

 

Overly simplyfied.... yes.

If you or I bought the HP tuners program, put it on our laptop and started messing with the stock tune, by making changes, we could kill or damage the motor.

You have to know what to set the variables at to accomplish a known result. That is where a tuner service comes in, they have tried various small changes and spent the time to test the results many times for each change, and then build upon that with each subsequent change. When they get a set "file" of all the best results, they just duplicate it with certain custom variables they allow you to select and sell you their "tune" with your limited selections.

There are many local shops that can offer the same service at their business, rather than by mail order copies.

The results are well worth it. It doesn't make your truck a drag racer, but the boost in overall drivability is impressive.

 

Good info, Doc. I'll definitely be looking into that, as well.