Orange / Yellow Spots
#1
Orange / Yellow Spots
Hello Everyone!
I'm new to the forum and need some help. I have a leased 2007 H3 with only 14K miles on it (yeah, low miles - it's my wifes - she does not drive much). It's white in color.
Problem is, I'm starting to see tiny spots all over the car - the size of a pin head- that are rust in color.
I tried washing and waxing the H3 and I can not get the spots to go away.
Some of the spots can be felt with your finger - some can not - almost as if its rust under the clearcoat.
Anyone else have this problem? Anyone know if it sounds like rust? Can I go back to the dealer and complain? It's a 3 yr lease and I'm figuring they'll say "Bring it back next yr and just turn it in".
Thoughts?
Robert
I'm new to the forum and need some help. I have a leased 2007 H3 with only 14K miles on it (yeah, low miles - it's my wifes - she does not drive much). It's white in color.
Problem is, I'm starting to see tiny spots all over the car - the size of a pin head- that are rust in color.
I tried washing and waxing the H3 and I can not get the spots to go away.
Some of the spots can be felt with your finger - some can not - almost as if its rust under the clearcoat.
Anyone else have this problem? Anyone know if it sounds like rust? Can I go back to the dealer and complain? It's a 3 yr lease and I'm figuring they'll say "Bring it back next yr and just turn it in".
Thoughts?
Robert
#4
I think Doc Olds was the first one to post this........
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/re...ailA_photo.jpg
RAIL DUST
Small rust colored bumps or specks in the surface of the paint film.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAUSE
When vehicles are transported from the manufacturer by rail, iron dust particles created by friction between train wheels and the track settle on the finish. When exposed to oxygen and moisture, this dust corrodes and become embedded in the finish.
REPAIR
Use a 30x magnifying glass to verify the presence of rail dust damage. Use caution when accessing damage to prevent scratching the paint surface.
Wash the vehicle with soap and water, rinse and dry.
Solvent clean with appropriate surface cleaner.
Use an acid based rail dust remover following manufacturer's directions.
Rinse with cold water then inspect the affected area to see if all particles have been removed. Repeat step #3 if necessary.
If the finish is pitted, sand with 1200 or finer grit sandpaper to remove damage, then compound and polish to restore gloss.*
Or, sand and refinish.
PREVENTION
Unfortunately, since this type of damage usually occurs during shipment or storage, little can be done to prevent its occurrence.
*When sanding and buffing a basecoat/clearcoat finish, a minimum film thickness of the clearcoat (2 mils) is required to maintain adequate ultraviolet protection. If correcting the damage will result in removing more than .5 mils, refinishing is recommended.
.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/re...ailA_photo.jpg
RAIL DUST
Small rust colored bumps or specks in the surface of the paint film.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAUSE
When vehicles are transported from the manufacturer by rail, iron dust particles created by friction between train wheels and the track settle on the finish. When exposed to oxygen and moisture, this dust corrodes and become embedded in the finish.
REPAIR
Use a 30x magnifying glass to verify the presence of rail dust damage. Use caution when accessing damage to prevent scratching the paint surface.
Wash the vehicle with soap and water, rinse and dry.
Solvent clean with appropriate surface cleaner.
Use an acid based rail dust remover following manufacturer's directions.
Rinse with cold water then inspect the affected area to see if all particles have been removed. Repeat step #3 if necessary.
If the finish is pitted, sand with 1200 or finer grit sandpaper to remove damage, then compound and polish to restore gloss.*
Or, sand and refinish.
PREVENTION
Unfortunately, since this type of damage usually occurs during shipment or storage, little can be done to prevent its occurrence.
*When sanding and buffing a basecoat/clearcoat finish, a minimum film thickness of the clearcoat (2 mils) is required to maintain adequate ultraviolet protection. If correcting the damage will result in removing more than .5 mils, refinishing is recommended.
.
#5
I have a friend who used to be a GM engineer in Detroit. He just took a look at it and said it looked like rusting metal flake in the paint - so - the rail dust sounds like a good explanation.
It wasnt easy geting clear pics of the white H3 (glare), but I took one of a spot in the inside of the door handle.
This Hummer is starting to look like it has chicken pox
It wasnt easy geting clear pics of the white H3 (glare), but I took one of a spot in the inside of the door handle.
This Hummer is starting to look like it has chicken pox
#6
I'd never heard of that before.....
Plenty of folks with the complaint, but no explanation or name for it...
Then one day Doc popped up with that or a similar link.
Pretty widespread apparently....Google it and see all the stuff that shows up on the subject.
.
Plenty of folks with the complaint, but no explanation or name for it...
Then one day Doc popped up with that or a similar link.
Pretty widespread apparently....Google it and see all the stuff that shows up on the subject.
.
#8
I was warned about this by my salesman when i told him i wanted White. He showed me his P/U that had the same spots. As someone already stated it, it is Rail Dust from the railroads. if you live or park near tracks, you will eventually get it.
#10
We always clay our cars in the beginning of fall...when it's not too hot in Florida...The orange/yellow spots come off, but it is going to take a FULL day to do it right.
First, you need to wash the truck ALL over with regular dish soap...this will remove all wax buildups and get you down to the original clear.
Second, use the clay bar and spray (we use Mother's which you can get at Pepboys or we order online from Autogeek.com)...clay the WHOLE truck.
Third, wash again with car wash...then seal the newly cleaned paint with a good wax (we use Liquid Glass at the recommendation of our detailer). a couple of coats of that and your truck will look like it just came off the showroom floor! We have never been happier!
First, you need to wash the truck ALL over with regular dish soap...this will remove all wax buildups and get you down to the original clear.
Second, use the clay bar and spray (we use Mother's which you can get at Pepboys or we order online from Autogeek.com)...clay the WHOLE truck.
Third, wash again with car wash...then seal the newly cleaned paint with a good wax (we use Liquid Glass at the recommendation of our detailer). a couple of coats of that and your truck will look like it just came off the showroom floor! We have never been happier!