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OEM Hummer H3 Roof Offroad Lights

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  #1  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:06 PM
xdplayer's Avatar
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Default OEM Hummer H3 Roof Offroad Lights

I have a new in the box set of the OEM Offroad Lights for the roof. Just like the picture below. Asking $300 shipped. Also open to a trade if you have any parts laying around just let me know what you have.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2014, 09:16 AM
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Default still have lights?

I know its been a while since you posted these ... But Do you still have these lights? if so email me at selandbe@gmail.com

Thanks
Brad
 
  #3  
Old 06-02-2021, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by akbaradeli
Hi mate,

What You'll Need

Choose a suitable place on your vehicle for the lights. Some states have restrictions on where lights can be mounted, so contact your local road authority before you tackle this project. You might need to buy a light-mounting bar, available at auto retailers from around $40, which can be attached to your existing front fender.

Most driving lights will come in a kit of two lights, fitting hardware, and a wiring loom. Halogen lights are the cheapest and can cost between $50 and $500 for a kit. LEDs will be more expensive and will usually come as one light bar or a set of two smaller lights from $100 to over $1500 for a large light bar. HIDs are the most expensive, starting at around $500 to over $2000 for a set.

If your new driving lights don't come with a wiring-loom kit, you can purchase one separately from an automotive store for as little as $25. As an alternative to a wiring-loom kit, you can individually assemble a relay, a dashboard switch, a fuse (using the recommended size for your light), a T-piece connector and enough wiring to reach from the dashboard switch to your car's battery and then out to the driving lights. A wiring diagram can guide you.

Installation

To fit your new lights, follow these steps:

• Find a suitable place on your dashboard for the switch. The switch will activate the driving lights when you turn on your vehicle's high beams. Most vehicles have a pop-out-style compartment for mounting auxiliary switches, but you might need to drill a hole in the dash.

• Mount the relay in the engine bay, placing it as close to the battery as possible, while avoiding areas of excessive exhaust and engine hot spots. Drill a hole or use any preexisting holes to mount the relay.

• Run a ground wire from the relay to the chassis or earthing point. Ensure a good connection by filing off any paint, rust, or grit from the earthing point.

• Run a wire from one terminal on the dashboard switch through the firewall (following a preexisting loom or other appropriate hole) to the high-beam wire on your vehicle's headlamp (this can be located using a simple testing meter while the high beam is activated or by referencing the wiring diagram included in your vehicle's owner's manual). Use the T-piece connector to join to this wire.

• Run the appropriately colored wire out of the relay through the firewall and on to the other terminal on the dashboard switch.

• Run the wire from the relay to the driving lights. Each light should also have a ground wire connected to an earthing point or the chassis.

• Run the battery wire from the relay to the battery, with a fuse in between.

• Test to see if the driving lights are working on high beam, and also test the operation of the dashboard switch.

• Finally, adjust the light beams. This is best done at night so you can gauge the appropriate position of the lights for maximum visibility. Take some spanners and go for a drive. Find a long, quiet stretch of road and adjust the height of the beams to exactly where you want them. Tighten the adjusting bolts and you're done.

This simple job will save you money, make your car safer, and give you a little bit of DIY satisfaction.
Why? Why do you continue to dig up old as dirt Threads. You have been asked more than once to discontinue the practice. Stick to the front of the board or make up your own brand new thread on whatever you want to offer.
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'
 
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