Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

Is it any good?

 

I'd say no way in hell... if you want to cut costs on modifying your truck, the engine management system is definately not one of those areas that you want to do that!! I don't like the ebay brand stuff in general, as my friends are in the wrx/sti/evo market and I see alot of cars turn to crap because they decided to rely on too much ebay stuff (sometimes, the quality just isn't there)

 

There are only two wires coming from the box. My guess is that it interfaces with/replaces the inlet air temperature (IAT) sensor. The PCM senses the temperature of the incoming air. Cooler air results in more spark advance and typically provides more power. You can do the same thing with a fixed resistor in place of the IAT.

 

And it adds more fuel too..thinking it is cold outside and acts like a choke did...This snake oil device ranks right along with a Throttle body spacer...Worthless...But you can psych yourself into thinking you feel a difference...

 

adding more fuel would make it slower, its when the car runs leaner (than stock) that it makes more power, but with less safeguard to knock. If it advanced the timing a bit, that would add some power, but again, you risk knock, and I'm sure this hasn't been dyno proven in the slightest...

also, if you want the engine to think its taking in cooler air, its not going to suck in as much, as cooler air is more dense. I used to peak @ 18.5-19.5psi on my old Audi TT, when it was hot out, it was a dog, even if it decided to run 20psi, on the other hand when it was cool out, it had some legs to it no matter what psi it ran... just my experiences with this type of stuff

 

Cold dense air requires more fuel to keep the same air/fuel ratio. If the engine thinks it is cold, and the MAF says the air is dense, it will add more fuel. If you change the IAT sensor to something that doesn't match what the MAF is saying should be right for temp and RPM, it might confuse the engine and it won't run at all, or for very long/well if it does. My advice, stick to stuff you know works or have second hand knowledge from a reliable first hand source of stuff that works. A lot of stuff is only worth what you pay, and some isn't even worth that. If you have money to waste trying something new, give it a shot. If it works, cool! If it doesn't consider it a learning experiance and be happily suprised if you get your money back regardless of the seller/manufacturer claims and guarantees.

 

The MAF measures the g/s of air flow entering the engine. The MAF outputs a frequency to the PCM to relate the g/s. In closed loop, the PCM will determine the injector pulse width based on the MAF reading, VE table, and the Strim and Ltrim. The PCM will then look at the pre-cat O2 to adjust the Strim to make the A/F as close to possible to 14.7:1 for best fuel economy and low emissions. In the long term, the PCM will adjust the Ltrim to make the Strim close to zero. The PCM uses the IAT and ECT sensors to tweak the spark timing in closed loop.

In open loop (i.e. first starting - engine cold) the PCM adjusts A/F and timing based on the ECT. The engine stays in open loop until the pre-cat O2 is active and above a certain ECT.

If there is a problem with the MAF, the PCM will go into speed density and calculate air flow based on MAP, IAT, and TPS.

 

I guess you learn something new every day. I just did, so now I can go to work.

 

Yes..After that last info post I feel like a need another degree in auto emission control jargon.

 

our trucks run a 14.7:1 air/fuel?? thats "I hate my engine" lean in the sports car world!