Your correct that I could get at 09-08 low miles base model for that...but I'v been spoiled with the adventure and luxury package, sunroof, plus a few more options...and I couldnt see stepping down in the options category..I have been looking around and it seems that my residual may not be to expensive based on what I got, and knowing the truck hasnt been beatin up is worth something...I'v kept this H3 well maintained..who knows what you get in a used H3..the newer models do have some improvements but financially I think my best bet is to keep the one I got...I dont mind reaching back for window controls,PCMtune is high on the list, and IMO boulder gray is the way to go

 

I see this was written awhile ago, but over the past two days my neighbor and I with some help from my oldest son did some mods on my 2007 H3, 1st we did a roof top fog light aad on, whihc we found super easy, the kit had everything we needed, and what wasn't in the kit was in the Hummer, all wireing hooked in to wires put there by Hummer so it was easy we did it is a three step process, 1st the inside wires, simply took off the radio face plate, and the dash under and next to the dash, starting by adding the button, and hanging the orange white and black wires down along side the drivers right foot area, putting the radio face palte back in place we found the black wire next to the radio, it was marked GROUND and with other wires for a trailor set up, after splicing this wire I found the Orange wire and a black wire with a white stripe on the left side of the drivers foot area these were spliced and the dash area put back together, next due to my disabilty, (I can't Walk) I opened the sun roof popped my head and body up through it, set the light bar where i wanted it and used a black sharpie to mark where I wanted the lights, from the I set the template provided, figuring it would assure me to have the holes separated when I could move it up or back to get the bar where I wanted it. as it turned out it was right where I wnated it, I used a center punch t mark the roof further, then got my three bits and put duct tape on each (about five wraps, so it would go deeper than I wanted) I put the tape n with only about a 1/16 of an inch or less just enough to break the steel, six holes drilled three times, with that done I set the threaded screw set thingys, torqued to 35lbs. the A pillr was removd and filed to allow for the cables that ran down into the engine compartment, the air breather or mock air breathe wasremoved, the wires ran as instructed, anut cap held part of the wire harnes to the firewal where a bolt was already waiting,that was phase two, Phase three had us removing the fuse box, and plugging the end of the harness t the underside, setting the 20AMP fuse in slot #4 of the fuse box, the fuse box was put back together, the three wires were spliced into the three wires waiting for them also put there by Hummer incase we wanted to add these lights, the Posative battery cable re attatched and everything was done, it took about 2hrs to 2hrs and 45 minutes, if I was able to walk it may hae gone a little faster. but it looks great.

Level kit. The next thing we did was install a level kit, I bought Ready Lift because they included a spacer for te shock, the install was as easy as changing a tire, although the instructions were not that clear, it only took a couple of tries to get it figured out, basically you'll want to jack the front of the truck up as high as you can so the lower control arm hangs as low as it can, removing just the top of the shock is all it takes, add the spacer, then jack the lower control arm up so you get enough threads to be able to put things back together, then remove the jack so all hangs again, with this side done go to the other side and install the other spacer, now move on to the torsion keyways, 1st remove the bolt, then using a gear puller remove the old keyway, to get the new keyway in you may have to pull the torsion rod, when resetting itthe torsion bar set it in place with the lower control arm hanging as low as possible, then have the key up as high as you can, as you tighten the bolt it will pull the key closer to the frame, the tighter the bolt the closer the key is to the frame, and the lower the lower control stays forcing the front of the truck up. I thought it would have worked to just turn the stock keyway up and doing the same thing, then getting a spacer, but Ready Lift is really good andhas a good reputation, the box says 2.25 inches, from the pics we took it looks more like we got 2.85" and nowseeing an 8.5" gap between the tire and fender on all fourfenders

the ready lift took us a long time, but broken down the spacers took about 10 minutes each, and each time we changed the keyways only took 10 minutes, if the instructions would have been better the job would have only taken 20 minutes total, granted it was two of us and we worked simutainiusly, so alone it would have taken twice as long for the second part or a half hour total

hope this helps