Larger Tires / Better Wheels / Lift Kit .... HELP - PLEASEEEEE !?!?!?
#21
11-01-2012, 02:52 PM
Hummers look best without white lettering,
most of us install the lettering facing IN.You do not have to change from OEM shocks. They will not fail prematurely.
You will have a severe nosedive on hard braking though unless you install the 1/2" extended bumpstops. Some people are not bothered by it, personal preference.
#22
11-02-2012, 12:06 AM
ok....for the 100th time this has been talked about here is my rendition on what needs to happen....REALLY NOTHING
if you want an aggresive look to your HUMMER H3... buy BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN OR GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC LT315/75/16 TIRES...LT is short form for LIGHT TRUCK.......
I HAVE A SET OF BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAINS with the size of LT 295/75/16 and i find the tire still a little too small for my Hummer.......next week i have a set of GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC LT315/75/16 white lettered being installed . BOOO on the white letters out! Ok for classic cars but not OffRoad rigs (my personal opinion)
As far as rubbing ....DONT WORRY ABOUT IT....ONLY REALLY TIGHT TURNS MAY CAUSE A SLIGHT RUB..but really people...how many times do you have to do that? This is actully true
I do suggest buying new BLISTEIN "FRONT LEVELING SHOCKS" for the front end...this will bring the vehicle up in the front (NO, shocks will not raise the front end) to balance the HUMMER out and NOT make it look and feel like you are going down hill all day long.....also buy a set of BLISTEIN REAR SHOCKS designed especially for HUMMER H3 with an increase in height(NO, once again shocks will not raise the rear end either) the shock will allow.
AND lastly.....give your torsion bars a few turns to bring it full throttle (please use the search function and see that you are following the proper proceedure, don't go to high and get an alignment after) .......doing ALL OF THIS will insure that you are now good to go.
So i hope i have answered some questions
oh...if you decide to go with bigger tires and you decide not to get those shocks that i told you about, i dont think your front end is going to last too long...the factory shocks have little room for movement as it is....so you will be TOPPING OUT (You do not have to get any kind of aftermarket shocks, and NO they won't fail prematurly, I've had enough HUMMER H3/H3T experience that I can also say the OEMs don't "top out")..not a pleasant feeling...trust me, i found out the hard way and did the leveling shocks after the fact...but i learned and now i teaching...HOPE THIS HELPS ...SAMMY
if you want an aggresive look to your HUMMER H3... buy BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN OR GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC LT315/75/16 TIRES...LT is short form for LIGHT TRUCK.......
I HAVE A SET OF BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAINS with the size of LT 295/75/16 and i find the tire still a little too small for my Hummer.......next week i have a set of GOODYEAR WRANGLER DURATRAC LT315/75/16 white lettered being installed . BOOO on the white letters out! Ok for classic cars but not OffRoad rigs (my personal opinion)
As far as rubbing ....DONT WORRY ABOUT IT....ONLY REALLY TIGHT TURNS MAY CAUSE A SLIGHT RUB..but really people...how many times do you have to do that? This is actully true
I do suggest buying new BLISTEIN "FRONT LEVELING SHOCKS" for the front end...this will bring the vehicle up in the front (NO, shocks will not raise the front end) to balance the HUMMER out and NOT make it look and feel like you are going down hill all day long.....also buy a set of BLISTEIN REAR SHOCKS designed especially for HUMMER H3 with an increase in height(NO, once again shocks will not raise the rear end either) the shock will allow.
AND lastly.....give your torsion bars a few turns to bring it full throttle (please use the search function and see that you are following the proper proceedure, don't go to high and get an alignment after) .......doing ALL OF THIS will insure that you are now good to go.
So i hope i have answered some questions
oh...if you decide to go with bigger tires and you decide not to get those shocks that i told you about, i dont think your front end is going to last too long...the factory shocks have little room for movement as it is....so you will be TOPPING OUT (You do not have to get any kind of aftermarket shocks, and NO they won't fail prematurly, I've had enough HUMMER H3/H3T experience that I can also say the OEMs don't "top out")..not a pleasant feeling...trust me, i found out the hard way and did the leveling shocks after the fact...but i learned and now i teaching...HOPE THIS HELPS ...SAMMY
Look inside the quote in blue
#23
11-02-2012, 01:15 AM
I had the same experience with my 06 and then the 08 even with Alpha torsions.
Maybe just Arkansas roads?
#24
11-02-2012, 07:31 AM
Huh? Mine did at about 24 inch under fender to axle center, often. thump thump so I came down to about 23 1/2 but on occasion felt them jerking. I made some adjustments.
I had the same experience with my 06 and then the 08 even with Alpha torsions.
Maybe just Arkansas roads?
I had the same experience with my 06 and then the 08 even with Alpha torsions.
Maybe just Arkansas roads?
That way who ever is modding their H3/H3T will know to stay at or below t 23 1/2" mark. I have had all of ours at 23 1/4 with the Hunner (yep yours) 1/2" nut mod and haven't "topped out" yet with the OEM OffRoad front shocks. I've hit some pretty serious whoops and washboards to test it out.
#25
11-02-2012, 08:30 AM
I see what you are saying. That is why I also suggested to read up on the leveling with torsion bars threads.
That way who ever is modding their H3/H3T will know to stay at or below t 23 1/2" mark. I have had all of ours at 23 1/4 with the Hunner (yep yours) 1/2" nut mod and haven't "topped out" yet with the OEM OffRoad front shocks. I've hit some pretty serious whoops and washboards to test it out.
That way who ever is modding their H3/H3T will know to stay at or below t 23 1/2" mark. I have had all of ours at 23 1/4 with the Hunner (yep yours) 1/2" nut mod and haven't "topped out" yet with the OEM OffRoad front shocks. I've hit some pretty serious whoops and washboards to test it out.
I'm not doubting your "hummer experience", but perhaps you should edit your statement to say that the shocks won't top out as long as you stay at or below the 23.5" mark. Stating that they don't top out is incorrect. Just because it hasn't happened to you, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
#26
11-02-2012, 09:06 AM
After leveling my truck, I went to get it aligned and they needed to put my level right at the 24" mark in order to get my alignment correct. I didn't have a problem with that until I noticed that my front shocks would "top out" when I hit a certain dip in the road coming home from work every day.
I'm not doubting your "hummer experience", but perhaps you should edit your statement to say that the shocks won't top out as long as you stay at or below the 23.5" mark. Stating that they don't top out is incorrect. Just because it hasn't happened to you, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
I'm not doubting your "hummer experience", but perhaps you should edit your statement to say that the shocks won't top out as long as you stay at or below the 23.5" mark. Stating that they don't top out is incorrect. Just because it hasn't happened to you, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
#27
11-02-2012, 09:48 AM
Good stuff guys. I would agree that 23.25" is about as high as you want the front end raised. With 35" Kevlar MTR's I got the least amount of rubbing at 23 1/4". That might vary for different tires. Since I have never been at 24"( except for a very brief time when first cranked ) I have not topped out the shocks. That is a good reason to have so many people comment with their own personal experiences.
Last edited by 3hummers; 11-02-2012 at 12:21 PM.
#28
11-02-2012, 10:11 AM
#29
11-02-2012, 10:53 PM
We also have minimal rub on the sway bar @ 23 1/4 (still rubs, but very slight) with 315/75R16 MTZs @ 37psi. At 24" and 23 1/2" it rubbed a lot more and @ 24" the ride just plain stunk.
With a 1" Daystar Body Lift and 37x12.5R16 IroK NDs @35psi, leveled to 24 1/4" (1" added due to the body lift) the rubbing is almost nothing except when in reverse with the steering wheel CRANKED to the right.
This is all with OEM 16x7.5" rims. Aftermarket Offset will effect all of these paramaters too.
After leveling my truck, I went to get it aligned and they needed to put my level right at the 24" mark in order to get my alignment correct. I didn't have a problem with that until I noticed that my front shocks would "top out" when I hit a certain dip in the road coming home from work every day.
I'm not doubting your "hummer experience", but perhaps you should edit your statement to say that the shocks won't top out as long as you stay at or below the 23.5" mark. Stating that they don't top out is incorrect. Just because it hasn't happened to you, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
I'm not doubting your "hummer experience", but perhaps you should edit your statement to say that the shocks won't top out as long as you stay at or below the 23.5" mark. Stating that they don't top out is incorrect. Just because it hasn't happened to you, doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
I DID say that I've had enough HUMMER H3/H3T experience that I can also say the OEMs don't "top out".
Heck, if a person who is adjusting there torsion bars for the first time isn't following the time and trail tested paramaters set forth by the others who HAVE done the torsion bar adjustment many times and HAVE done it wrong and lowered the front end then anything is possible. Diff damage, CV boot tearing, CV damage, diff seals leaking, premature unit bearing failure, premature shock failure, Tie rod damage, steering rack damage, etc. Yep even shock topping out! By the way I have had the Bilsteins and removed them. If I wanted that type of ride I would be driving a Jeep.
