Thelower half of the back door has orange peel all the way across. Looks like the spray was just a little to heavy.

 

Most of today's cars are painted by robotics. You would think they would have those dialed in for perfect paint jobs.

 

It is where small pieces of metal in the paint actually oxidize and rust! On lighter color paint jobs like mine, it starts to show aslittle spckles of rust all over the place...even on plastic parts. They call it rail dust because it supposively comes from when they first ship the vehicle, its on the train and the metal dust from the rail road can get embedded into the paint and plants the seed for the oxidization to start.
Here is a link to a picture of my rail dust. This was just after it was washed and scrubbed by hand so thats not dirt you see.
https://www.hummerforums.com/upfiles...A2255F90B9.jpg

 

Ghostrider: that really sucks, yikes!! Have you talked to the dealer about it? Where is it on the truck, all over or just certain spots?

 

Yeah, they said to drop it off for a while and they can give it a heavy buffing since its not technically a paint defect, its in the clearcoat. But because its not in the paint and since its not corroding metal, its not a warranty thing so they said it would be about $150 if I remember right. It's really bad right near the rear door handles and fender flares. Thats where that pic was taken. Thats what set me off was when I spotted the rust but realized that its a plastic part so it couldn't be rust. I think it had to do with the Michigan salty roads we have in winter and how the tires spray the sides pretty bad, it had a continuous coat of salt on it for a good 4 months even though I washed it once a week. Its also a reason why I decided a body color grille would be a bad idea. Especially with a brush guard and winch, its impossible for a car wash to clean anything off the grille so I'm sure it would have the same fate eventually.

 

It's always a good idea to use a clay bar on a new vehicle so you can get the rail dust and other trash off of the clear coat before you start waxing it. If you have never used a clay bar before you would be amazed at how smooth the paint is when your finished, it's slicker than glass when your finished and it doesn't take that long.

 

mliebs8: you have to be careful with the clay right? I know it does wonders, but I've only dabbled with it. Would you be willing to do a post in the Detailing sectionand run down the list of pointers on how to best do it? Pros and cons kinda thing. It could be helpful to the crowd here? Thanks.

 

Sure, I'll post it right now. It will be a step by step on how to get the most out of your paint job.

 

IMHO having worked ata car dealership (BMW 30 years ago) I can say with all honesty that all cars come looking the same, yes with orange peel, even those very expensive bmw, mercedes porsches and vw's it's up to the dealer to detail and buff the cars smooth, no not even boyd coddingtons custom cars look good until a good wet sand and lots of buffing compound. If you accept a new car with orange peel i'm sure the dealer will give it to you but concider paying at least 40k for a hummer it should be smooth enough to shave with, mine is. but i also had to get about 4 coats of wax on it [8D][sm=ts.gif][sm=yikesomg.gif]

 

ps for those of you with white hummers go to a auto detail retail store and get a bottle of industrial fallout remover, works wonders on the little crud that gets around emblems, doorhandles ect,,,,, don't do anything on orange peel tho[:'(]