Looks really nice and it has to help to vent that heat away. Could you have trimmed the louver abit to fit the cutout opening? Maybe an inch all the way around.

 

There is a "weld-in" version available that comes without holes drilled. It looks like it could have been trimmed to fit better and I could have used the number of rivets I wanted to hold it down. The holes are well spaced, about 5X rivet diameter but I would have spaced them out a little more as this isn't a structural application (and we are using automotive grade pop-rivets not cherry max's). The kit came with rivets and a drill bit, but the drill bit was a good amount larger than the holes in the louvers and the matching diameter rivets.

Temps are still hovering around 90 degrees and probably won't hit over 100 now for the rest of the summer. I have not noticed a big drop in temperatures aside from a slightly longer time to heat up when idling but I have not had it out on the highway at high speeds and temps with the a/c on yet. The one day I got on the highway, the temps were about 82! Well, at least it's already in place for next summer and it looks good in the meantime.

 

The company you ordered the hood louvers you just put in makes one that replaces the fake hood louver for the hummer h3.

RunCool Real Heat-Escape Hood and Side Louvers

 

Well ya finally did it, you caught the tater.

I didn't see that option when I ordered mine a month or so back but I don't think it would have made a difference to me anyway due to what I had said above (besides the weight issue). One per side or three right in the middle is not a big difference to me other than the one big center piece would cost over double what I went with. Maybe I did see it but was in sticker shock denial? Who knows? who cares?

Anyone have plans to put the one big center piece in on their own?

 

I am going to put one in when I get around to it. There is a support in the middle though and I am debating about just cutting through it. I dont see it doing much. Also my factory hood louver is glued on so its going to be a problem.

on a side note I am in Tucson AZ so if it works i will notice

 

Here are some tid bits to chew on. Food for though.

A vehicle with its hood removed will run hotter than with the hood in place.
Operating Temp of a water cooled cooled vehicle is controlled by thermostat.
The air used to heat exchange at the radiator is drawn in from outside the underhood enclosure.

 

Doc, that is true. A hood is there to manage airflow. In the case of cooling, it is there along with the other baffles around the radiator to guide airflow into and through the radiator instead of allowing it to spill around the radiator where it is wasted. The exact same reason the fan has a shroud, to manage airflow. Without a hood, air would not beforced through the radiator, but the hood louvers do not effect airflow into or through the radiator only after it has passed through the radiator, heated up and then heats up other underhood components. This is the air I'm trying to remove. The H3's front scavenging, bottom exhausting, airflow works when moving on the hwy, parked or around town is another story. that heat

 

That heat wants to go up, but the hood holds it in and the engine bay fills with hot air before spilling out the bottom of the engine bay. Not a bad thing, but when the outside temps are extreme like they are all summer in the southwest then anything that can be done to reduce this trapped heat when operating at the extreme upper end of the vehicles ability to cool is a good thing. As I said before, I didn't get the DIC warnings, but do feel the a/c heat saturate and unable to cool further at these temps.

 

How about one of the concerned folks take your hood off completely for a couple days and see if you notice any difference in the temp gauge in daily driving before your fire up the sawzall. Better yet, hook up an OBD guage to find out the actual temp with and without the hood. Post up some numbers.

It's been suggested on many forums that there really isn't an actual overheating problem with these vehicles but there is a proven problem with inaccurate factory temp gauges, which are merely a gloryified idiot light.

 

The heat gage in a healthy,normal vehicle/h3, should go up to the normal point when the engine has stabilized and never move.
If it goes up it can only mean that the thermostat is open and even then the fan/rad cannot cool the coolant because the outside air is too hot or youre sitting still. A rare thing.
without a tstat the eng will run cool and never reach proper temp as designed,with the proper tstat.
So unless you are boiling over or reading actual over temp I think you are over reacting to a nonexistant problem.
I repeat the question,?:has anyone ever had a h3 boil over"? when it had no other problem to cause it.
You are ignoring the simple suggestion of simply pulling the rubber hood seal in the rear and let the air blow out . You could also lift the hood rear a slight amount and not see it.
I need proof that the problem exists!