So yesterday I came out and had to get a jump as when I cranked it it just made a few clicking noises. Only thing i've done different the past 2 days locking it up is I hit the inside door lock and than hear a 3-4 beeping sound and than I shut it. Reason doing it that way is that I misplaced the keyless remote, but I just found it! So this morning I go to crank it again and its dead again. Any ideas what could be causing this?

 

Have your battery checked, may be dead and no longer able to hold a charge. Check the alternator to see how many amps it's putting out while driving. How old is your battery?

 

Got the car from Carmax in September, so not really sure? I'd hope they check that as part of their inspections before selling the car? Not sure how to check the battery, unless a local auto parts store will do it for free? Same thing goes with the alternator, I don't have any tools? I did have a shop upgrade my lights and fogs to HIDS like 6 months ago, but haven't had any issues. Could it be anything to do with that?

 

when you get clicks it is usually bad battery contacts and gets fixed by twisting them. if they move,they are loose but at that point it will probably start since they are making new contact. snug them a little and you can go till you get time to pull them and clean them.
the factory contacts are fine till you distort them by going overboard when you adjust them.
then its time to replace them.

when you get clicks,check to see if the interior lights are on and blinking as it clicks. does the radio work? lights and radio work on very low power but the starter pulls the volts too low and you get clicks as the starter relay pulls in then drops out when the volts drop,then pulls in again! clik,clik,clik!

if it really goes dead,check leakage current when its working by lifting one batt connector and reading current. it should be 110 ma. 1/10 of an amp.

volts at startup go to 15 volts,then drop to apx 14 for a while,then lower.
its easier to read volts to see how its charging and at 15 volts you can be sure the generator is charging lots of amps!.
hooking up an ammeter is difficult and dangertous. if you loose contact with the batt the gen voltage can go up and fry stuff. never run with the batt unhooked!

btw I have some cheep dollar store digital meters that work fine for car volt testing.
and also,its almost impossible to connect an ammeter to check charging amps,so just read volts.
and it looks like the gen control monitors only volts,not charging current.
finally,if connections are bad,when it is running you probably are not getting a good charge backup.

 

Sounds like you need to replace the alternator and/or battery. Something similar happened to my 06 and this fixed it.

 

Took it to autozone and their little thing read bad battery. And their saying the cheapest battery they have for my model is a duralast and its $137 plus tax, ouch!

 

That's not actually a bad price for a battery. Are you new to owning hummers? The words economical and Hummer do not go well together in any sense of the word. Parts can be expensive, but it is an awesome vehicle. Don't skimp on parts by putting on parts that are just less money. Use the best and your hummer will last you a long time.

 

don't belirve any bs they give you,ANY 12v batt that fits in will work,nuthing special.
last 3 I bought were apx $70 at walmart and a&r with same waranteer as any other.
its a small engine,ez to start. btw,2 were for other cars and one as a 2nd batt for m h3.

all auto parts stores are about %50 higher than normal. just compare cranking amps and warr,and price.
the batts probably all come from the same factory anyway.

also they usually cant tell a bad batt at az till its fully charged first,so they told me. watch the bs.

 

$137 isn't bad at all. Personally I would get a dry cell AGM battery... if you're willing to spend close to $300.

 

Agreed!

They are available for cheaper.

Chris