Darn thing is busted again. Ive owned it less than two months, it has been twice in the shop,

and this morning....no go. Click click, and no start. WHAT NOW!!!! So after a bit of tire kicking and swearing, I found out that the terminal (positive is cracked). Re-seat it, and off I went.

HOWEVER.....


left driver side power window is not working, and when I press lock on the remote, lights flash, but it doesnt lock. It also doesnt unlock. Ive been looking at the fuses, and I can't seem to find either of those.

Can one of you help and tell me which fuses are possibly messed up? Im getting to the end of my patience with this ........you know what.

Thank you.

 

and no 8 (which is suppose to be power locks) is fine.

 

Easy fix. When you lost power from the positive side, your PCM freaked and you need to reset the driver side door PWR window and locks curcuit.

Check the manual for the fuse diagram. Take the cover off the underhood fuse box, pull the fuse for the driver's side pwr window #68, check it, and put it back if ok, do the same for the door locks fuse #8. Now pull and put back in relay #77 for the PCM.
Should work then.

 

I wish. Did exactly as you said. Neither 68 or 8 were blown. Reset PCM.....nothing.

Lights show it (lock - one flash and unlock - two flashes). It appears that it thinks its ok.....but it doesnt lock the doors, and it doesnt roll driver window up or down. No mechanical movement.

 

The problem originates from the suck azzed battery terminal connectors we have on the 3.
I have used the instructions I gave you two times on mine this winter when I went out to go to work ... naturally both times it was less than 5F degrees.... and it worked for me.
The first time last year this happened, I just wiggled the battery connections to make sure they were in good contact with the battery. Also give the ground cable itself a good wiggling ... were it goes down to contact the chassis next to the battery. I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya. Check those battery cable connections again. The PCMs are extremely sensitive to voltage, so even though the truck will start, it still will "freak out" certain circuits.

If it ever does it to me again, I am cutting off those stinkin factory connecters and installing the good old fashion terminal ends that all autos used 20 years ago.

Good luck!

 

u might have a problem with the battery cables which i can tell u are on a national back order, i have been waiting over a month for 1. i was having issues when i would get in my h3 and the clock would be at 12:00 well after awhile found out its the battery cable going to the battery so i would take it to the dealer to see if thats it and if it is get ready to wait.the hummer dealer gave me a 09 trail blazer but i hated it and returned it after 1 week. i called the dealer and told them i am doing them a favor since they were paying the bill to enterprise and said i want my h3 back and they were able to rig a clamp and i have had no issues since but like i said waiting on the part. i also had a issue similar to yours with the window and also the locks and the dealer replaced the whole driver side cluster and that worked. i dont no how it would work when the passanger side did not but it worked.good luk and hopefully u have the warranty being u have had only 2 months

 

no luck.....I tried connecting and disconnecting....nothing....

I replaced a factory terminal with after market stuff (like you said, good old 20 year old ones that work).

It tries to do it, but no luck.

Im really getting sick and tired of this thing. Into the shop it goes, and they are gonna tell me AGAIN how they are not a hummer shop, and they have to call million miles away and get the parts, and wait two weeks.....uggggghhhhhh

Why on earth did I buy a vehicle from GM......sucker for punishment I guess......

 

I feel your pain!!! I've had a slew of problems myself! I'm trading in my h3 next week and I highly doubt I will be buying anything GM in the future.

 

On the positive side, I've had my '07 for 2 years. Only had it in once for a side door gasket replaced.

 

This issue is the only time we have ever had to have our truck serviced. We ran into the same trouble as others on this forum. Truck wouldn't start and then we couldn't get the key out of the cylinder. As doc suggests, wiggling the posi help for a while. Then our driver side window and door controls stopped working. The Service tech told us there are a few resistors inside the door lock and window module that are sensitive to overload or voltage bumps and burn easily. Apparently they are a snap to fix by just soldering in new resistors. But the warranty replaces the unit instead, and or tech couldn't tell me what the resistance was to begin with in order for us to fix an out of warranty product if it ever happened in the future.


We picked up a pair of new gold plated terminal heads from Auto zone for 12 bucks each. These are a must if you plan to add a winch or amplifiers to your truck. We liked these because they have two 4 and two 8 gauge outputs each. There are other brands out there from the car audio companies that may better fit your needs. The cost of the terminal are way better than the cost of the repair based on preventative maintenance.