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H3 wont start

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  #1  
Old 04-01-2011, 02:35 PM
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Default H3 wont start

hey guys and gals. my h3 wouldnt start when i came out of grocery store. after a minute it it started. then driving home when i came to a stop sign it died and wont start again. it doesnt even turn over and it wont come out of park. there were to indicators that said ABS fail and low fuel. i had just filled up and dont think that has anything to do with it. please someone help me. the delership says they cant get it in till next tuesday. if someone else has ad this problem or know how to fix it please help. thanks
 
  #2  
Old 04-01-2011, 09:25 PM
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check battery / cables and connections people say they are a common problem with h3
 
  #3  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:55 PM
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I agree with mikeyd
 
  #4  
Old 05-02-2011, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2wheelmonster
I agree with mikeyd
agreed especially check grounds, not sure where the main ground from the batter leads to, some times GM just puts these into a self tapping screw into the body, it may have worked it's way loose, or may be corroded! Another possible cause is anything installed on the Gm data line.. like a radio interface, or scan gauges etc.. If you have anything like that try unplugging or remove there fuse and see if it improves.
 
  #5  
Old 06-01-2011, 12:18 PM
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does anyone know how to replace battery cables on a 2007 H3? GM dealer says the BCM, battery control modual need to be replaced at a cost of $1,000. Someone in a post in this forum said that the battery cables are likely the cause. Just want to try to replace battery cables to see if it takes care of the BCM issue from dealer.
 
  #6  
Old 06-01-2011, 05:38 PM
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first, the cables are good, the crimp on the cable/conn is good. the actual clamp on the post may be bad. if u want to change it i would never cut the crimp off. i cut the flat metal,leaving enuf to drill a hole to bolt it solid to a brass batt conn from autozone. apx 5 bucks.u get good solid metal contacts,NO SQUEEZED WIRES!. if u ever cut the cable and use a pretty conn that squeezes the copper strands u are scheduling a worse problem later on your calendar.
ive had good luck with those red/green discs they put on batt posts for corrosion,if they still make them.

if u must cut a cable,you must flux and solder on a heavy solder lug, bolt to brass conn.

dont focus on pretty,focus on solid conn.

ive done this dozens of times

ps, u can use the ugly clamp type lead/brass conn,just dont use the squeeze clamp,just one of the bolts for your
drilled piece. when u tighten these bolts u want to really crush!the metal,,,tight
 

Last edited by drtom; 06-01-2011 at 05:46 PM.
  #7  
Old 06-01-2011, 09:14 PM
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drtom, would it be possible to upload a photo showing the new connection to the battery post? many thanks in advance!
 
  #8  
Old 06-01-2011, 10:39 PM
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my h3's have been trouble free so im going from memory of past cars, 2 ford probes that had metal strap connectors. i hammered them flat, cut off excess,drilled a hole to bolt it to a brass conn. it was a clamp type but i used just one clamp bolt to hold the drilled tab that was left on the cable. i find factory crimps to be very good so i leave them alone.
i can try to make up a similar setup but u gotta use some imagination!!.read and think about it.
 
  #9  
Old 06-01-2011, 11:55 PM
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thanks drtom, i think i now can visualize, basically flattening the metal strap connectors, then drill hole on flatten metal in order to connect to brass battery connectors, then connect brass connector to battery posts! please let me know if i am hot or cold here! thanks in advance
 
  #10  
Old 06-10-2011, 10:32 PM
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drtom, those battery cable ends on those old probes were the worst. Those things corrode when you look at 'em cross eyed. It was that dang Mazda influence on Ford. But the idea of using whats left, especially the factory crimp, is exactly what I've been doing for years, too. These H3 battery cable ends seem to be pretty stout by comparison.
 


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