That is a possibility I did not think of. I'm gonna check the tourques of the hangars and U bolts too while I'm sniffing around. It's only done it 3 times in 8700 miles, but I do not like it.

 

Hi,

I think I know now what the problem was. The caliper was completely covered by a thick layer of earth and I think that´s why they didn´t work properly anymore. I only had time to check the front ones yesterday. But I think the front ones were the only ones who were really dirty because now I don´t hear any sounds anymore and they brake better than before...
So, in future, I will clean them every time when I go offroad.

 

[sm=funnypostabove.gif]

I work with guy just like that.....He says "WHY YOU BUY UMMER? IT PIS O CLAP!!!" YOU DO WHITE THING. YOU GET TOYROTA"...LOL

He kills me....

 

Hi,
today I drove again with my H3 and still noticed the problem I mentioned. I now think it could be the parking brake that doesn´t release completely, as the parking brake doesn´t work anymore after one of the guys I rented it to, drove with tightened parking brake [:@]
What do you say? Could it be the parking brake??
Thanks,
Daniel

 

As you know the ER Brake is a Drum brake. Once I didn't install mine properly. It would grab and squeal like crazy. The shoe was to close to the drum! I adjusted it and it was fine.

 

Hi guys,

I´m shocked! I took the H3 to the dealer today because of the mentioned problem with the brakes. They looked at it and called me. The brake shoes of the parking brake are bad and have to be replaced. Apart of that both the rear brake disks AND both brake pads have to be replaced.
And they need about a week to order the parts from GM [:@]
A whole week without my H3!
I hope I can tell them it has to be warranty, because if not it could cost me a few thousand dollars....

 

Doc Olds….
In regard to your problem, is this after the engine started and you are backing up or going forward for the first time since startup? If so,it might be the power-up self-test run by the EBCM (Electronic brake control module). Since the ABS system operates from signals from the EBCM to solenoids, the EBCM must exercise the solenoids to determine that they are working properly. If the solenoids do not operate correctly during the self-test, the EBCM signals the BCM there is a problem and shuts down, and the BCM will signal, via the IP cluster an ABC/Traction Control problem. When the EBCM shuts down, all the circuit control solenoids are left open to allow brake fluid to flow through, and you will have normal, braking, just like in the olden days prior to ABS.
This self-test does not happen until the vehicle is first moved after startup, and vehicle exceeds 6 mph (usually around 10 mph it initiates). Normally, no one will notice this exercise of the solenoids, but if during the self-test, while the solenoids are being exercised, if you should hit the brake pedal hard, the EBCM bypasses the test to allow the brakes to be normally applied. If the pressure solenoidsjust happen to be in the closed position, brake pressure will build up in the lines for aa millisecond or less. When the EBCM shuts down the self-test, the solenoids are immediately opened and thehigh pressure is now allowed to flow through the solenoids to the calipers, andcould cause the higher than normal pressure to slam the pads against the rotors, causing the rear caliper to slamcausing a clunk. (The front calipers are fixed with opposite pistons, so when pressure is applied the pistons go out, pressing the pads against the rotor. The rears are floating with one piston, when pressure is applied to the piston the piston pushes out applying the rear pads, the the force draws in the front as the caliper floats on pins. This is where the clunk usually comes from.)
Thestandard braking system on the H3 is not boostedfrom vacuum, but a high-pressure accumulator that is energized by an electric pump. Therefore, the pressure in the lines can be higher than that from a vacuum boosted system. This clunk will not harm the brake system, and the lines are designed to take a heck of a lot more pressure than the accumulator could ever produce.
If this is the circumstances when the clunk happens, no problems. If it happens during normal driving, there could be a problem with a back caliper hanging up on the pins, then slamming back after the slight hesitation due to the hang-up, or could be the front calipers are loose (something that usually only happens after a brake service and the tech did not understand what 195 N.m of torque stood for.[])

 

f5fstop: Thanks brudda. I think that is most certainly it. This has occured every time when first started and my initial movement is in reverse for a fairly short distance (leaving a parking space) and the noise definitely comes from the rear. Scared the heck out of me withthe Hi Lo episode above cuzIF ya hit an industrial fork lift, they do not bend and I thought I made contact, it WAS THAT LOUD, a clunk like crunch sound. I knew the H3 was not a vacume boost system, but I never contemplated a pressure spike. Good info bro. Thanks for the help, I feel better.