H3 Amp Ground Wire Location
#1
H3 Amp Ground Wire Location
I have a subwoofer installed in my trunk, but it's been acting up, and I have a quick question for those of you with subs in the back. I have the stock factory monsoon headunit. and was wondering where you grounded your amp's ground wire at? I have mine grounded right behind the back seats into what I think is the frame. Any other suggestions?
Also, for the amp 12volt on switch, did you splice into the pink wire behind the headunit or closer to the amp?
As well as the PAC LOC, where did you hook it up? Behind the head unit or the amp?
Thanks alot!
Also, for the amp 12volt on switch, did you splice into the pink wire behind the headunit or closer to the amp?
As well as the PAC LOC, where did you hook it up? Behind the head unit or the amp?
Thanks alot!
#2
I took up one the tie down hooks in the back. (to be exact the drivers side closest to seat) I took it up, got a dremel and took off paint from truck and back of hook, placed grown wire, with connector under it.
I have power and everything. My problem is getting the amp to turn off. Where did you do your remote too? I tried the fuse box with the radio and the windsheild wipers. After I realized my amp was blown i took it out and shipped it to get a replacement and thats where I stand now.
I have power and everything. My problem is getting the amp to turn off. Where did you do your remote too? I tried the fuse box with the radio and the windsheild wipers. After I realized my amp was blown i took it out and shipped it to get a replacement and thats where I stand now.
#3
Pac adapters should be places behind the radio. They are not designed for high wattage or any type of moister conditions possibly found in your rear space area, so keep that in mind. As for a remote turn on switch, any wire that is considered an "accessory" wire would work. This way with the car off, the power will cut out. Sometimes tapping into factory amp remote lines will keep the factory unit from turning on itself. They are often low voltage. I have this fealing the Monsoon amp is alway on when the key is forward meaning it has a power costant and accesory but no remote line. I have tried to locate an input source with a meter, no luck so far at the amp site. I will check behing the factory head unit wires of another H3 and get back to you.
#7
I took up one the tie down hooks in the back. (to be exact the drivers side closest to seat) I took it up, got a dremel and took off paint from truck and back of hook, placed grown wire, with connector under it.
I have power and everything. My problem is getting the amp to turn off. Where did you do your remote too? I tried the fuse box with the radio and the windsheild wipers. After I realized my amp was blown i took it out and shipped it to get a replacement and thats where I stand now.
I have power and everything. My problem is getting the amp to turn off. Where did you do your remote too? I tried the fuse box with the radio and the windsheild wipers. After I realized my amp was blown i took it out and shipped it to get a replacement and thats where I stand now.
#8
Any idea how you blew your amp? Because I hooked up ground to the same area before, and two of my amps blew after long drives. I think its a bad ground from chassis to the negative terminal of the battery thats causing my amps to blow, because I have a solid ground that's metal to metal. Any ideas why my amps are blowing?
#9
Amp level inputs are normally set at four to six volts max at the RCA's. If you tapped your pac adapter after the sub amp for sound to the new amp, your pushing close to 65 watts at 9 volts or more. While the PAC should reduce this output as it is an adapter, this would be the first place to look for a failure. Amps do not normally blow when not grounded properly. In order for an amp to provide maximum function, it must have as good a ground as it does a power supply. Many amps will auto shut down, other amps will kick on or off and produce poor sound when a clean DC supply is not provided.
Check your power supply first to make sure your not getting more than 14.5 volts to your amps. Anything more than that could damage the units. Next check your ground and make sure it hits solid metal and is firmly in place. If those things are in order, its time to look at that adapter and its placement or intall. Of coarse, an amp can blow for many different reasons including aging and time, overheating, and corrotion. But two at the same time is a sure sign something is wrong.
Let us know what you find out. I'm not a fan of catching adapter wires post amp. They are designed for low voltage after the factory radio and well before an amplified line so I'm guessing thats the issue. Good luck and get back with us when you find out whats going on.
Check your power supply first to make sure your not getting more than 14.5 volts to your amps. Anything more than that could damage the units. Next check your ground and make sure it hits solid metal and is firmly in place. If those things are in order, its time to look at that adapter and its placement or intall. Of coarse, an amp can blow for many different reasons including aging and time, overheating, and corrotion. But two at the same time is a sure sign something is wrong.
Let us know what you find out. I'm not a fan of catching adapter wires post amp. They are designed for low voltage after the factory radio and well before an amplified line so I'm guessing thats the issue. Good luck and get back with us when you find out whats going on.
#10
Any idea how you blew your amp? Because I hooked up ground to the same area before, and two of my amps blew after long drives. I think its a bad ground from chassis to the negative terminal of the battery thats causing my amps to blow, because I have a solid ground that's metal to metal. Any ideas why my amps are blowing?
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