thanks in advance for any replies I want to get a chrome fuel door cover just interested in how they install any help is appreciated thanks

 

Dealer installed mine--pretty sure it is just three self-tapping screws into the plastic for my fuel door cover. Three arms extend down from the door and contact the plastic on each side of the gas cap at the bottom. I would imagine other brands might install differently.

 

h2 chrome gas door is easy, H3 require drilling into your fender and some pounding...not for the faint of heart.

 

This one from G-Style takes about 10 minutes to install....even I was able to do it....





ProductName:
CHROME BILLET FUEL DOOR - MILLED / 06-07 HUMMER H3

OurPrice:
$155.95

Availability:
In Stock

ProductNumber:
3RW2022A0103

Product Weight:
10 lb.

Rating:


You can go here to get an idea of what installing a factory door is like: http://www.rausite.com/hummerh3.htm

 

Got a brand new one on ebay for under $80.00 delivered...........unclaimed feight sale. Took me about 15 mins. to install, I was being careful.

1. Unscrew gas filler cap.
2. Remove production fuel filler cup.
a. Using a plastic putty knife or body side molding wet-out tool between the fuel filler cup by wedging
the tool between the filler cup and the quarter flare working in a clockwise direction until the fuel
is free. Use a plastic bag or similar material between knife and body panel for paint protection.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the painted surfaces of the quarter flare.
3. Using a screwdriver remove the teather from the fuel filler cup. Repalce filler cap to keep drill fines
out of the tank when drilling.
4.Using the drilling template provided, align and secure the template on the quarter flare. Secure template
with small pieces of tape at 12/3/6/9 to hold...
5. Use center punch to dimple flare thru crosshairs. This establishes drill bit position and will keep the drill
from wandering. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill the 5 pilot holes thru the crosshairs on the drill template while
secured in place.
6. Remove the drilling template.
7. Using a 19/64" drill bit, redrill the 5 holes thru the quarter flare. NOTE: Make sure the drill bit is
perpendicular to the quarter flare. De-burr the holes after drilling. You can now remove the filler cap.
8.Insert the 5 tubular speed clips provided in the package into the 5 holes you drilled. Orintate speed clip
flat toward filler opening. NOTE: The tubular speed clips may require to be slightly tapped with
a rubber/plastic mallet to snap into quarter flare.
9. Install the pre-drilled fuel filler cup from the package into the opening in the quarter flare. Make sure
that all the snap features on the fuel filler cup lock into place on the quaerter flare.
10. Using the chrome fuel door assembly with trim ring provided, insert the posts on the chrome fuel door
assembly into the 5 holes in the fuel filler cup face. Apply pressure untill the fuel door assembly will
not insert any further.
11. Open the chrome fuel door.
12. Using a 1/4" "L" shaped Allen wrench, insert the long end of the Allen wrench into the hole on the
inside of the fuel filler cup. NOTE: Hold top of Allem wrench and pull in towards the center of
fuel filler cup creating support behind the tubular speed clips in the quarter flare.
13. Secure plastic or similar prtective material over chrome rings with tape, leaving the filler area open
so while tapping, you can hold the panel outboard for a tight fit.
14. Using a rubber mallet, tap on the face of the chrome fuel door while pulling back on the Allen wrench
to provide support for the quarter flare in all 5 positions.
15. Repeat #14 as you work your way around the chrome fuel door surface. The final result should be
that the adaptor ring is flush with the quarter flare.
16. Install the 5 black hole plugs provided into the holes on the inside surface of the fuel filler cup.
17. Reinstall the teather in the fuel filler cup.
18. Reinstall gas filler cap.
19. Close the fual filler door.

H3 Chrome Fuel Door rev 14MR06 part No. 19131532

THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL IS THE 19/64

 

Ya know, if I had it to do over again and was running my stock wheels, I would go
with the factorydoor. It just has a better looking fit and I like the way it matches
the center caps on the wheels. However, the one I got from G-Style does work nicely
and it fits into my over all theme.

 

I bought the GM Chrome door and installed it myself, I will say that you have to take your time and follow the steps posted above by the numbers. The ardest part for me was getting the new door on, you have to use a mallet and get it going whilst holding an allen wrench to give it a stop so when you hit the door to seat it the fender flare (plastic) doesn't sink in when you hit it.

Don't knock one side in much farther than the other as you will have trouble getting the high side in, go around the door tapping it down evenly as you can. Frankly I had to beat the crap out of mine to get it flush, I think I got it slightly off square as I was installing it and had one pin that didn't want to seat the final 1/8th inch or so. I had a plastic mallet and really had to wail on it to get it down into proper position.

End result was so worth it though..

 

"Tapping" in the instructions may be a little kind. Smacking passes the reality test.

 

I bought minefrom the dealerfor the H3 after market black powder coat on the outside and chrome in the middle. Only 4 screws to install. Just had to line up to be straight, back out the screws from housing to be flush with the housing then push the cap all the way until flush. Thenscrew in a bit ata time going back and forth to each screw tightening each screw a little until all are screwed all the way in, 15 minutes to complete. No drillingat all......just needed a screwdriver.
SteveO

 

I just installed the OEM deal and it wasn't pleasant.

The first one I got was defective (retarded) and no matter how hard I pounded on it, it wouldn't go flush. I then took it off to find out the plastic was molded incorrectly.

When I tell you I pounded on it... that isn't even the word. If I would have missed, I would have put a hole through the flare.

The second one I got... I just pushed the door in as far as it would go.

My wife bought me a Craftsman hammer that you could change the tips on depending on how hard or soft the surface was. Thes were rubber/plastic tips.

At any rate, I used the brown tip, which was the softest and I hit it a bit hard a few times and she popped right on. The brown tip only left little rubber marks... and a little Zaino later it looked perfect.