Hey all....I'm experiencing a noise on the front passenger side similar to the sound of an aggressive AT or MT tire. The sound is constant when rolling and gets louder when weight of the truck is bearing down on the front (ie. braking or turning left or right while coasting). I had both front hub assemblies replaced earlier this year and don't think that's the problem. There is no vibration/shaking while rolling or coasting into a turn; only thing I do think is wrong is a warped front rotor as I do get a bit of surging when braking to a stop.

Has anyone else experienced this constant noise? Could it still be a bad hub/bearing (right side was replaced in March and that is the side where i'm hearing the noise)? Both times when the hubs went bad I got a very bad and loud grinding; not hearing any grinding noise, just a loud road noise-like rumble.

Planning to have it roadtested this weekend. Could it be front brakes or caliper? Its been about 1yr since I did the front and rear brakes.

 

Also, truck suspension seems to have gotten squeakier over the past few years...and is annoying. Is that a sign of needing bushings or something?

 

I had the same issue with my 07, half shaft aka. cv joint. If you do it yourself it is around 190 and 3-4 hours. Dealer 1800.00 or so! Hope its something else.

 

I hope its nothing serious either. I do have a Chysler Powertrain Care Plus extended warranty; doesn't cover the hub/bearings because its considered AWD/4x4 but covers the following:

Covered Four-Wheel-Drive/All-Wheel-Drive Components

• Transfer Case / Power Transfer Unit and all Internal Parts
• Viscous Coupler
• Front and Rear Axle Housing Assemblies and all Internal Parts
• Rear Driveline Module
• Axle Shafts
• Axle Shaft Bearings
• Constant Velocity Joints and Boots
• Drive Shaft Assemblies
• Drive Shaft Center Bearings
• Universal Joints and Yokes
• Disconnect Housing Assembly
• Differential Carrier Assembly and all Internal Parts
• Output Ball Bearing and Flange
• End Cover
• Overrunning Clutch
• Vacuum Motor
• Torque Tube
• Pinion Spacer and Shim
• Seals and Gaskets for Listed Components

 

Been at the dealership for 2 hrs. They told me the noise is the tires. He says the tires are cupped on the front and rear and the truck most likely needs an alignment. CV joint and hub/bearing were all tight. I bought the tires ~a year ago and got an alignment as well.

He says after the alignment and tire rotation, the sound should eventually go away after the tires begin to wear evenly again. He asked how much air I had been putting in the tires. The tires are Cooper Zeon LTZ (light truck tire 3-ply) and rated at max PSI of 80. My "low tire" indicator lit up about a month ago and when I check the pressure they were at ~25 lbs; I pumped them up to 70lbs each. Service manager here, says thats too much air and I should only be running 35lbs and no more than 40lbs of air pressure in the tires. Is this correct?

He said the front brakes are good (been almost 2yrs since I last did brakes and I'm hard on brakes); rear brakes are low (not sure why they make the pads so tiny on the rear); front rotors need replaced or turned (I'll do this next year before state inspection).

Also inquired about the stupid parking brake handle. He says that GM redesigned it so that it won't break. Said the new design cable and handle costs about 8 bucks and would be about 40 bucks labor.

Figured I would try and take advantage of leveling the truck before they did the alignment and asked how much they would charge to crank the T-bars to 23 1/2...$90.00 along with the 90.00 alignment. Thinking I'll crank the bars myself and bring it back and get it re-aligned under warranty (was hoping they would crank them for free).

 

Agree that 70 psi is way too high. Go with the 35 psi as advised and check treadwear over the next few months and adjust if needed.

 

I run 40 psi in my tires. Kl71 kuhmo 315/70/17 mud tires. BE CAREFUL! I leveled the front and did the tires and wheels at the same time. When Hibbdon Tires plus did my alignment they used hummers caster camber #s and that is what played a big part in the bad cv joints. If your tires are leaning together at the top like the letter A after they get done, IT IS WRONG!!!! When the "popping" noise started and I took it to the dealer, they told me the warranty was voided because I leveled it and put larger tires on it. $1800 bones for the repair. Luckily, the dealer noted that the alignment played a big part in binding the cv joints and Hibbdon/Firestone paid for the repairs. Most front end guys just do it per mfg specs and don't consider the leveling kit and larger tires. And just a side note, don't waste your money on a "leveling kit". Just tighten the T-Bars and buy some +2" longer shocks and buy some extended bump stops. The kit just comes with a new t-bar key and shock extensions. You are on your own for the bumpstop a anyway. I did not bother to do mine, no issues. Sorry so long but I hope to save you the headache I went through!

 

Ok, so I'll be getting bigger tires installed this saturday along with an alignment and was planning to tighten the torsion bolts to level it. What you mentioned about the CV joints now has me hesitant to touch the torsion bolts. Are there specific numbers that I should give them for the caster camber? Will be getting the install done at PepBoys.

 

Stick to the 23.5" rule of thum and you will not have any adverse problems with the CVs.

Tons of threads on how to measure, what direction to turn the adjustment bolts etc.
What size tires are you going with?

 

Going with Mickey Thompson MTZ LT305/70R16