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  #41  
Old 04-26-2012 | 08:48 AM
Doc Olds's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 06PullUouT
I would have to disagree. In computer controlled cars the battery is what supplies the "juice" to electrical loads and the alternator recharges/maintains the batteries 12.5 + levels. The alternator maintains a constant level of juice to the battery independent of rpms. Proven with my spec 3 BMW with an electric fan..... Dyno Hp to wheels with and without fan running is 206. Electric fan has no effect on HP.
Hello............... who you talking to? This thread is FOUR YEARS OLD!!!!!!!!!!!!! These peeps haven't been here in years.

BTW, this is a HUMMER Forum, your BMW reference has nothing to do with H3s. Many now have the PCMforless Efan conversion or the SuperModulation Efan conversion.

Dyno results show about 10 HP freed up for the I5, more for the Alphas, but I can't say if there was a published comparison between fan on vs off.

Originally Posted by drtom
yeah,,,ure rong as my speling,,both of u.
if it was free power you could get free mileage ,,like a chevy volt!!

the alt puts back more juice than any accs uses because of the efficiency of maybe 50%.
lots of losses in any electrical device, including the batt and alt.
an electric fan MIGHT save some energy at high speed when its completly off,but
consider this,at idle or low speed the mech fan moves enuf air to cool the motor. the electric fan in the same situation has to move the same amount. do you really think it can use less hp doing the exact same job.
if if could,allnew cars would have a small gas engine,a big alt and big batt.
just look at the roaring sucess the electrics are having!!
it aint happening soon.

u take 100 watts out you need to put back maybe 150.
you can calculate power used to charge any batt,like a phone,,,very inefficient,getting better,but not too quickly.
Here is where you are incorrect about the Efan (not commenting on your alternator stuff ). My fan never runs between December and Mid March. Never = no juice. The fan runs rarely for the months on both sides of that, and when moving at 50MPH+ for almost the rest of the year.

When it does run at idle in hot temps, it is on in cycles, for a few minutes at a time, then off. So, unlike the OEM fan that is always moving and dead weight on the crankshaft even with the clutch not engaged, the Efan only runs when coolant temp dictates (or if 06/07s wired as they instructions call for, and all 08+s with the PCM patch, when the AC compressor runs).

Solid and immediate 1MPG boost all year, a bit better in the great north winters.

So what you guys say we let this old dog die, put it out of its misery like?
 
  #42  
Old 05-20-2012 | 10:32 PM
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Can I use this to control the electric fan?

Inline Radiator Hose Temperature Sensor Adapter 3/8 NPT | eBay

I bought this for another car but want to use it on the H3 instead.
 
  #43  
Old 07-16-2012 | 06:15 PM
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Im new here and I know this is an old post, Just bought a low mile H3. Im also into 1966-1977 early bronco's. We have been using the Ford Taurus 2 speed electric fan with flows 2500 low /4500 high cfm. I'm running a 392 that is fuel injected. I do mainly rock crawling. Based on this set up and yes it was dynoed a few times I do get more power. Many time's when the weather is cold it does not even come on, As for water crossing it is simple to add a cut off switch. For the fan controller I use the Dakota Digital. I can pre set my highs and lows and even preset cooling down time once the vehicle has been shut off. Also for rock crawling that I do I can be out on a trail 8 plus hours going real slow and the electric fan keep the same speed unlike the mechanical which changes all the time depending on speed. We all went with the Taurus fan set up because the 4500CFM speed. That was the one thing I could not find was a high CFM electric fan. With this set up I have never had any issued.
 
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