Thanks, that makes sense. But I see an Orange wire that goes to the headlight wire in the schematics? I was hoping that would somehow enable me to reroute the DRLs.

Also have to find where to tap into the turn signal wiring harness before the "flasher".

 

drl fuse 39 10 a kills drl relay. hi/lo beam switches lights direct to ground,nothing in series.drl relay 79.
from 07 download. lighting, fig 2

 

For the turn signals, I believe the turn signal switch just closes a BCM circuit to ground. I don't recall seeing a flasher in the diagrams, but I admit I don't know if the H3 actually has a flasher relay either.

As an alternative setup for your cornering lamps which also somewhat localizes the additional wiring near the front turn lamps, a 12v time-delayed-off relay could be triggered off of each front turn signal lamp power wire. A relay with a delay of about two seconds would remain constantly energized for the duration the turn signals are on, and turn itself off two seconds after the turn signal's last flash off. You need to adjust the off-delay to be a fraction of a second longer than the time between flashes on your vehicle.

These relays can be somewhat pricey so shopping around is suggested. Hella makes these relays for 12v systems, they are adjustable to delays from about a fraction of a second on up to several minutes - they are commonly used to keep backup cameras on for several seconds after shifting out of reverse.

 

bcm senses 2 resistors to do left/right decision. bcm feeds 12v to bulbs,does the flashing. could use relays? or transistors to sw ts bulb volts. if transistors, ez to blow with a short! might be what halo did??

 

So the lighting wiring for the 2010 and 2007 H3's are nearly identical. Happythree has been mostly correct. There is an extra orange wire from the DRL relay to the right headlight only. To light up the left side DRL power is fed after the right side creating a series circuit and running half power. Electricity will find grounds. Disconnect that orange wire for the DRL at the splice for the right headlight. Connect that orange DRL wire to your each of your new lights and they will work at full power. I would recommend using a relay to power your new DRL's so you don't overload the system. Your signals are more difficult due to the BCM. Your best bet would be to cut the dark blue wire near the socket, feed that wire to your new signal bulb and create a new ground. Completely eliminate the factory signal bulb filament.
Sound good Happythree or did I miss something?

 

strange wiring!! note relay 75 feeding thru 2 fuses to the l/r hdlts
the,lo/hi beams get directly grounded thru rel 70.
now your org wire feeds 12v to the right hdlt,AND UP thru those 2 fuses to BOTH hdlts that are still directly grounded thro rel 70.why they fed 12v there and not same point rel 75 does??
i see no voltage split, full 12v appears on both lights huh?
is there an error? good question huh??
i dont trust that kind of diagram, always wonder if its right!

oh, your comment about "finding grounds". no mysteries, ground must be clear just as 12v . in this case it is the relay contacts.