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A/C Heater temperature control problem. Please help.

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  #11  
Old 11-14-2010 | 11:19 PM
Hooty-Hoo's Avatar
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From: Gilbert, AZ
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I finally got around to taking my '07 in to get this fixed since it's starting to get cool enough for heater use. They are going to replace the temp switch (had to order part so I'll have to take it back to get it done).
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2010 | 01:02 AM
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From: San Diego
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FYI

I have an 07 also and have this same temp control problem. 1 click past cold and my temps were hot also. After some driving and operating the "Mode" switch, I got the temps to somewhat normalize out but still was skeptical if this would still fix the problem. Didn't know if it was the control switches or the actuator doors not working right.

Just got out of the Dealer today. They tested and replaced the whole control switch assembly and it now works just as you would think it would. Cool to warm air up to half on the dial and warm to hot at the last of the temp dial.

Hope you find out if this is the same problem I had --- good luck
 

Last edited by Slash x; 11-17-2010 at 01:07 AM.
  #13  
Old 11-17-2010 | 11:56 AM
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Default calibration

accordin to da book;

ign on,eng off
temp to right
blower to right
mode to left
press hold ac,defrost untill ledsflash
leds stop flashing,done

as usual , prayer helps
 
  #14  
Old 11-17-2010 | 01:34 PM
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From: Rochester Hills, Michigan
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Originally Posted by drtom
accordin to da book;

ign on,eng off
temp to right
blower to right
mode to left
press hold ac,defrost untill ledsflash
leds stop flashing,done

as usual , prayer helps
Did the book say exactly what is calibrated?
 
  #15  
Old 11-17-2010 | 05:01 PM
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Default details,details!!

ahh, yeah.
"when replacing air temp,mode,recirculation ACTUATOR the hvac control assm, the following calibration,,,," as above.


i dont have the foggiest idea what happens

its another 5yr down the road nightmare when there are no svc shops that know anything,,,or they charge $100/hr like???
 
  #16  
Old 07-18-2015 | 07:22 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I recently purchased an '06 H3 that has this very issue. Was hoping someone has figured out for sure what the fix is for it. Is it replacing the control panel?
 
  #17  
Old 07-20-2015 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ScoobyDooHummer
I know this is an old thread but I recently purchased an '06 H3 that has this very issue. Was hoping someone has figured out for sure what the fix is for it. Is it replacing the control panel?
I had the same problem and this fixed it for me. I found this on another site

This should fix the problem of turning the far left climate control **** off of max cold temp and have it blow hot air with no variable.
I did some searching and someone else discovered this fix, not sure who originated it.
This supposedly would get the reference voltage (5 volts?) regulated again if the switch circuitry has failed or wherever the 5 volts originates.

The light blue with black stripe wire, terminal f circuit 1688, on the driver side of the*hvac control*head needs 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor installed inline.

The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.

I did not disconnect the battery as I wanted to confirm this resistor fixed it instead of by some fluke disconnecting the battery did.Set the parking brake. Turn the key on.It helps to shift to Low. However leaving the key on will drive you nuts so after removing the dash piece I put it back in park.Disconnecting the battery would of course shut the dinger bell off. So I would recommend that and you can leave it in low to have more room, now that we know this did fix it. (fingers crossed)First you have to do the stick your fingers in the DC sockets and pull up and out.I cut me a piece of cardboard for a work surface in case solder dropped.I disconnected the plug from the back of the switch to get more room to workFind the light blue wire with black stripe. I peeled back the high quality gooey sticky black*electrical tape*GM chose to use far enough to expose the wire back into the loom so I could slide on some shrink wrap long enough to cover the splice.Call me old school, I'm old and went to school, but just as in my battery thread I make a physical connection first then solder.I used some forceps for a heat sink.I used a Radio Shack 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. They come 5 to a pack for $1.30 or $.26 a piece.If you don't know, use a low wattage iron so as not to fry the insulation on each end. Heat the wire until it pulls some solder as you feed it.Use some fine solder, Radio Shack still has that!Grabbed a short piece of shrink wrap I keep around. After the solder area cools slide the shrink wrap you remembered to slide on BEFORE you soldered over the entire splice. Use a*heat gun*carefully to shrink the wrap and secure and insulate your splice. I did not re-tape it at this time as I wanted to test it first. I will use a high grade of black*electrical tape*or some loom.
 
  #18  
Old 07-20-2015 | 07:21 AM
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Thanks a bunch. I actually found that same thread after I posted here. I did that and it fixed it as best I can tell. These forums are amazing!
 
  #19  
Old 07-20-2015 | 09:37 AM
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From: Boat Town USA MI
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Originally Posted by ScoobyDooHummer
Thanks a bunch. I actually found that same thread after I posted here. I did that and it fixed it as best I can tell. These forums are amazing!
Good thing you dug up this FIVE year OLD thread to discuss the same thing in 3 other current front of the board threads.
 
  #20  
Old 07-20-2015 | 10:22 AM
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7
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Thanks for the warm welcome. Surprised you guys have any members with that attitude. This isn't my first rodeo on forums my friend. It is however my first HUMMER that I've owned. I'm learning a lot about them as I go. You probably have many years on me in that category. I'd appreciate a little friendliness instead of sarcasm.
 
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