Does anyone have suggestions for a brake upgrade? Most of the time the breaks are just 'ok' The wife has had them checked twice at the dealer because I swear I heard/feel some slight grinding. If I tear it apart I am just doing the brakes and would like to upgrade them at the same time. Pulling the trailer on our vacation just left me wanting a little more. 90% of the time it was great.

This thing gets wheeled once in awhile, and also tows an expedition trailer that probably weighs 1500+ lbs.

I am also thinking of a programmer, where is the best place to get one? I have never ran one on my vehicles. I am looking at the Hypertech, anything I need to know before hand?

 

If you have an I5 I would check out PCMforless.com. AWSOME customer service, great product at a decent price. Tell'em what you have and what you do with it and they custom tune to your specific vehicle and needs.

As far as brakes, I'm a big fan of the OEM pads. They stop my 37s very well and last over 50 thousand with a proper break in.

 

I just did the brakes on mine and i didn't get anything extravagant but it improved mine a little bit. I got drilled rotors and new pads together. If you need alot better breaking get some slotted or drilled and slotted. Also check your fluid and your callers as well as the slides all around because the breaks should work good, and unless there is alot of weight to the trailer it shoulda handled it i would think. Mine wasn't hardly even making contact on the inside in the front on both so i needed new. I cleaned the old ones up and am gonna try to have a pair turned to be a spare.
all four rotors and new pads only cost me $235 and i had alot of doubts but they have been much better.

 

I just installed in EBC Green Stuff brake pads on my T last weekend. The pads bite a hell of a lot better then the OEM, price came out to be $200+ but I will be move then happy to pick them up again.

 

I have a 2006 H3 that my brakes are just now needing to be replaced. 65,000+ miles. My dealer says that the front and the rear brakes are needing to replaced. I have never had a vehicle that the rear brakes need replaced at the same time as the front. Is the dealer telling me the truth? Any one have had any experience with the front & rear brakes needing replaced at the same time? Another question for everyone, has anyone had really good experience and results from upgrading to cold air induction systems as well as either a performance chip like the one advertised on this site or a programmer or perhaps a menthol injection system? Did any of the above provide increased performance and or gas mileage? Are there any other recommedations to increase horsepower, performance, gas mileage? Any info please advise, Thanks!

 

Braking power is most time 60/40 with the front wearing faster. When I replaced my pads the rear pads was just as thin as the front after 42,XXX miles.

For your other half of the question, in the future please use the search bar located at the top to ensure the question your going to ask hasn't be answer yet.

Make a thread on the specs of your HUMMER and what you wish to accomplish also what is the use of you HUMMER.

 

Unlike many prior GM trucks/SUVs, the H3 was designed and built with an excellent 4 disc braking system with dual pistons up front. My first set went to over 57K before the squeakers started to make contact up front.

Rears will be due for replacement very close in time to the front because they are also discs rather than the old drum style. I went a couple weeks longer on the rears before changing those up. Used all AC Delco OEM pads with hardware.

Cross drilled slotted rotors on a truck as heavy as the H3 will just tear up pads faster than OEM rotors and there is no need for additional cooling/cleaning unless you happen to be road racing on a closed course..... in the rain.

 

Thank you Doc for answering my question on the front and rear brakes. I have had manyhigh performance cars before the H3 that had disc brakes on all four wheels however, the rear's never wore out at the same time as the front. It perhaps has to do with the design of the master cylinder/distribution of braking etc. and how the individual pressures are on each wheel. I am going to have the dealer replace with OEM since I have gotten 65K+ miles out of the original brakes pads.

 

Exactly my thinking. Pads are really not hard to do at all. If you need the rotors turned that's a different story.

 

I am at 40K on a 2010 Alpha/Offroad and my mechanic says the fronts will need replacing soon but the rears are still at about 50%. I am still contemplating on whether or not to go ahead and replace them all at the same time. Most of my driving is city stop and go. He was a factory trained Honda mechanic for years and now works for a little 3 bay mom and pop garage. He recommended I go with the OEM pads. I have been fortunate to find a mechanic I trust 100% locally as my nearest certified Hummer provider is 2 hrs. away. He is a good mix of old school who also keeps up to date on all the newest technology.

On a different note he noticed an oil leak coming from the rear main area. There is a TSB on a possible cause 05-06-01-034J porosity on the rear engine cover. With the dealer's blessing, I added a UV dye to the crankcase and will run it a while to track it down. If it is coming from there then it's off to the dealer for a warranty repair.