Bouncy Front End - Torsion Bar Keys
#12
I added the Bilsteins with 1" bumpstops thinking cranking the torsion bars to the max, 1" bumpstops would get it. I inadvertantly cranked the T-bars to 24.5 (recommended max is 24.25) and even then the snubbers were touching the lower A-arm. I don't get it, there should have been at least a small gap. I may have to go to the 1/2" snubbers? As for the Bilsteins, they seemed pretty stiff at the outset, but a good day of off roading settled them in and they feel pretty good now. Or I may have just gotten used to them. Anyway, I started with Rancho 9000's and couldn't figure out why they were actually shorter than the factory shocks when I specifically told the guys at 4WP that I was lifting the truck. I wasn't impressed with the Rancho's appearance, seemed kinda cheesy with a fake looking finish and hard rubber boot; so out went the Rancho's. When I got the Bilsteins (which cost less than Rancho) I was completely impressed by the overall finish and apparent quality. The boot was a flexible rubber one already zip tied in place. The Bilsteins are a sexy shock, to be sure.
#14
Get Procomp Keys...
Just get Procomp or ReadyLift keys and be done with it already. I don't care what anyone here says. If you tighten the torsion bars you are adding preload and yes you will have a bouncy ride.
When you do aftermarket keys, it will re-index the starting point of the torsion bars and not add preload. The stock amount of twist is applied but the starting point is advanced so you sit higher with the same amount of spring rate. Tightening the torsion bars is the poor mans way of getting lift. Do it the right way and get Keys. I did it both ways and I can tell you the Procomp keys are the way to go. Same ride as stock and no more stink bug look. Level and awesome ride.
When you do aftermarket keys, it will re-index the starting point of the torsion bars and not add preload. The stock amount of twist is applied but the starting point is advanced so you sit higher with the same amount of spring rate. Tightening the torsion bars is the poor mans way of getting lift. Do it the right way and get Keys. I did it both ways and I can tell you the Procomp keys are the way to go. Same ride as stock and no more stink bug look. Level and awesome ride.
#16
cranked my torsion bars and just got done installing the +1/2 Bumper stops..
And have to say SWEET!!!!! No rake and factory type ride for less than 50 bucks..
you can call me Cheap.......But I have more money to go for my 35's
And have to say SWEET!!!!! No rake and factory type ride for less than 50 bucks..
you can call me Cheap.......But I have more money to go for my 35's
Last edited by mbrannon64; 05-29-2009 at 10:11 PM.
#17
H3 when all you need is a Ratchet,socket and a tape measure. i didnt even change shocks. rides as good as stock!
#18
Couldn't do that with mine... not sure why. I couldn't get the drivers side any higher then an extra half inch. The new keys allowed me to get it up to 24 1/4" from center of hub... and that was tightening the drivers side to the max!
#19
I just cranked my torsion bars on my 06 H3 today, and I have the front sitting at 23 3/4's. After the ride home, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need some new shocks. My question is, however, that I hit the brakes hard a couple times to see how far she'd dive and I heard a metal hitting metal noise when she dipped down. Would that have anything to do with the fact that I haven't changed the bumper stops? Do they sell bumper stops at your normal Autozone or Kragen or is it something I have to special order?