Anyone else using a diffrent shock on a leveled H3?

I need to purhase a new shock and would rather get something that will last. I am (was) running the Cognito Bilstein Shocks BILSTEIN-BE5-C153-H0. After some light trailing I noticed my shock was leaking. Sad part was I didn't even hit the mud pit that hard. Just one side is leaking but I would rather replace both at this point.




Rest of the pics are here....
Hummer Forums - Enthusiast Forum for Hummer Owners - deebocubs's Album: Stuck Overnight In the H3

 

There are many people that have had a Bilstein fail, that is why my truck still has the stock adventure series shocks (yes my truck has been T Bar adjusted for years).

You do not need a shock extender or longer shocks if you keep the front at 23.6".

 

I too had a leaky Cognito. Took'em both out put the OEM OffRoad package shocks back on with a 1/2" nut as a spacer (thanks Hunner) and have done it to every HUMMER we have owned since then. Great factory ride and compensates for a t-bar level.

 

Any info on this fancy trick? Im looking at replacing the oem adv pkg shocks and would much rather keep the oem shocks and avoid failure from blistein

 

I "borrowed" the idea from Hunner (another member) with his permission of course.

We (he and I) use nuts (I prefer stainless) that are approx. 1/2" in width. Place 1 per side between the upper shock stem and the shock mount (from the under side) and tighten the top nut to the required torque spec and you are finished. Cost me under $1. Just using the 1/2" nut as a "spacer", puts you back into the sweet spot of the OEM Adventure/OffRoad shocks if you haven't cranked your t-bars over 23 1/2".

 

I ended up replacing with Sky Jacker. Ride appears to feel like the stock ride.
Haven't had a chance to offroad on them yet and no idea how long they will last.
I believe it comes with lifetime warranty and the cost for 2 was as cheaper than 1 Belstein.
So far very happy with the replacement and money saved.

 

You wouldnt happen to have a part number or link to these?

 

But I am running Bilstein since the OEM failed me at about 10,000 miles and I have 40,000 on my four Bilsteins and no leaking and still seem to be working. Guess I got lucky four times.
The OEM from what I could find out are made by Tennco in Tennessee who make several branded shocks including Monroe.

This is an old post I wrote in 2006 or so and updated from time to time, take it or leave it.
As always these are just my findings from my experience having had all this apart several times.

Whatever you get it should be about 1/2 inch longer than OEM if you crank the torsions to 23 1/2 which is a far as I would go. I tried 24 and it is exponentially more lift and the ride and handling suffers and the shocks will jerk being extended to their upper limits. I call that "topping out" not bottoming out which to me is hitting bottom when compressed.
It will also increase your CV angles and tie rod angles causing them to push UP more than in and out on the steering rack. That will, as I will probably repeat, create more pressure and increase possibility of tie rod damage and reduce the life of the pass side rack mount bushing and rack.
I discovered a while back, 2006, that by disconnecting the stock shock (it will also affect anti-sway bar links and tie rods) there is 1/2+ inch more droop. Thus the whole adding a 1/2 nut to the top under the upper mount I came up with, (found one in the junk drawer) before Bilsteins the right length and lower clevis mount were found. Which are listed as for a K1500 series lifted pickup.
F4-BE5-C153-HO front
F4-BE5 6254 H5 rear

One more option is the tie rod. If you undo the outer end you get a tad more. That can only be achieved by using a different design. Stock will articulate 23 degrees but the set I had made will go 30 degrees, more than the suspension will. That's all folks, at that point the upper a-arm would almost be on the "metal" bump stop on the frame and can hit under extreme conditions.
First shot at full droop
The links will reach but be at full cocked up maxed out angle and probably still holding up some travel. This is with both of them level to show how much of a reach it is with the shocks extended or disconnected.

The stock tie rods articulate to about 23 degrees and max out at the inner connection. Which some have discovered contributes to bent or broken tie rods and reduces the life of the pass side steering rack bushing.

This is a 1/2 inch nut that is,,,,,1/2 inch tall. It does not thread on the shock just drop it on. That will space the shock down.

This is the stock shock at full droop disconnected. You can tell it would require lifting the lower a-arm to reconnect, about 1/2 inch.

this is how close the stock shock comes at full droop with the nut on top. I stopped here as I was concerned about a hard hit on the metal stop. The stock shock has the internal bump stop so that softens the final stroke.

This is a Bilstein at full droop.

I later added limit straps with the stock shocks just to make sure on my 06. That would be if you wheel really hard and are hanging at full droop on very uneven trails from time to time. I was so I tried it. Now on the Alpha with stiffer torsions and BP tie rods and Bilstiens I am slightly tapping that stop but not enough that to have done any damage as of now. The arrow shows the metal bump stop on the frame I refer to. I did not want the upper A-arm coming down on that with enough force to cause damage. I put chalk on it and tested that theory.



I will add that travel up limit is solved by the suspension reaching it's top limit and then pushing and lifting the front of the vehicle. Tire size can also limit up travel. However I did run some 315's and the suspension travel will stop before they hit the fender liner, unless you have gumbo mud caked on. Those will also rub the anti-sway bar at full lock in some cases.
I did not like the nose dive after leveling when braking or the body roll going into curves so in 2006 I also combined two OEM progressive rubber springs or bump stops to make one 1/2 inch longer and take out that space.
Phil had some made out of stiffer material which work great if you have a winch, mount and brush guard weight on the front. The extra firmness is not really felt with that setup and again the stiffer Alpha torsions make a difference in combination with Bilsteins give me the control I was wanting.
If you want even more droop the anti-sway bar links are maxed out cocked up at their max, before full droop. I replaced those with some Curries they call fabricators model because of their length I could custom cut them. They have the correct size bolts to fit the H3. The first ones, shown here on top, I tried I was not happy with the strength and build and bolt size. The Curries are great. I got them from someone building a custom rock crawler the day before a MOAB trip.


My Frankenbump prototype.

This is the new design at full droop.

Here is a dissected OEM Tenneco shock off my 06 showing the internal bump stop.

Here is an OEM and Bilstein with the lower ends lined up but showing the top ends. You can see the Bilstein is longer but that adding 1/2 to the OEM will get you that length also. On the Bilstein that lower bushing is against the stop on the shaft. Boots generally cover the shaft.
I measure shocks from the center of the lower eye to the top of the lower (top end) bushing. It is my understanding so does Bilstein. Despite other posts contradictory to my actual measurement and shock length these fronts are 17 inches NOT 18 inches. That is the measurement you need to know to fill the distance between lower mount and upper mount. It makes a difference ya know?

I have tried to update this often so some of it may repeat or sound out of context. I tried to be specific and to answer questions that I am repeatedly asked to better help those wanting to try this.
If you cranked the torsions and somehow don't feel the degradation of the front suspension then I guess, no problem?

 

Thanks buddy!