Hello,

My 06 H3 is in the dealer's service shop right now for a head replacement (53K miles)..I knew it was gonna happen sooner or later (Misfire codes P0304) and finally a leak down test proved it to be #4 cylinder intake valve leaking at the seat)..I did buy an extended warranty and that is what is paying for the Head Job..

Okay, the reason I'm posting here is because while they got it, I was told my brakes are about done, so when I get it home I will do a brake job..The only question I got,

Does anyone know of the PROPER Bleed Pattern for this H3?..So far I've found little info, other than some generic procedures like RR first, then LR, then FR, then FL...

TIA..any advice will be helpful..Also, I already know you have to have the engine running to do the back brakes.

 

so far in the 2.7 years ive been here i aint never yet heard of anyone bleeding brakes. normally u dont need to on a brake pad swap out. i have heard its not ez on anti ballistic brakes!!

id avoid it like poison ivy and vanilla ice cream

also,,i never heard of running the engine to do the very hazardous under car bleeding with engine running and car jacked up thingy

i NEVER get near a jacked up car without blocks of wood under it like all over. no use getting killed while having fun doing brakes

 

It's no big deal....However, Brake fluid, especially DOT3 is very hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture out of the air easy like a sponge, which in turn will eventually cause corrosion in the Calipers, as moisture settles to the lowest points in the system ...It is advisable to bleed the system at least once every two years...I'm behind the eight ball on that myself, so I want to flush with fresh fluid...I've done it before a couple of years ago, I just don't remember which pattern I used...I do remember that the engine needed to be running to do the rears though...(Again, keeping the Truck in park and at an idle is all that is needed..use of Jackstands, ventilation, etc, is a no brainer.)

I am doing both Pads and Rotors (all four sets)..which is nothing, except while I'm at it, I want to purge the fluid also, to keep things clean and of course to remove any air that may have gotten in due to Caliper compression while installing new pads...I open the bleed nipple while compressing, rather than force fluid all the way back to the master cylinder.

 

hey,my misteak,ure actually the break gob intructer frum gum tech. forget evry thing i sed

oh btw do come bak and give lessons on other aspects of hummer engineering and maintenance since i can assure you nobody here knows breakz like u du

oops,,after u come and ask for help

 

Thanks for your help...Much appreciated.

 

Bleeding brakes you always start with the wheel that is furthest away from the master cylinder then work towards it. An easy way to make it a one person job is to use a mighty vac pump and reservoir, makes no mess and doesn't require a second person. Also works alot better getting air out. Some of them need to be power bled though.

 

I'm just thinking about my other vehicles and buying a Motive brake bleeder canister which hooks up to master cap and forces ~15psi through cap then all you do is open the bleeders. This is suppose to be better than having someone to work with you and pump brakes at same time.

Also thinking where I can get a master cap with a zerk to add air compressor line to...same idea. Just need to keep the resevoir filled and just open each side and drain till clean comes out (after turkey bastering the master out fill with fresh).

 

Thanks Talusfan...I found some old notes from the last time I bled the Brakes..I did it the way you said..and what I seen posted on other forums..RR-LR-FR-FL.

 

I just did the brakes on my 08. I recommend buying new hardware with the pads. The two pins the front pads glide on get corroded. I sanded mine down so they would glide smoothly as they wear. Napa pads have all the hardware.