6 months or so is no biggy, even close to a year is fine if it is a long thread with lots of comments. Please just don't un-earth 1, 2, 3 and four year old fossils. For sure do not dig up a vintage thread (for example) and ask a certain member (say Fred Flintstone) and ask Fred a question when it is obvious Fred has not logged on for over a year. Instead, forget regurgitating Fred's post and PM Fred instead. When Fred never responds you will know why and you didn't muck up board space. Forum members come and go, most have rapid turn over.

If you searched and found an older thread, feel free to start a new one and link the old one to explain why it may be relevant and how it did not answer your particular question, or how your information is related and may be helpful to others.

 

The next step would ditching the nerfs

Tires look great, although I'm not a fan of lettering on a tire, the red lettering is different.

You need to straighten out your spare. Get the black bar horizontal. The lettering will look better too.

Like this:

 

Looks good man!

Where are the wheels rubbing at full turn?

 

Spare has a story... When the installer was looking the truck over he said "hey, your missing one of your valve stem caps! That's not good as they have O rings in them to keep water out." then he goes on to do four of the rims including the spare. He took his time to get the lettering lined up for me and was quite proud of how good a job he had done. Well he gets to the last rim, the one that was missing the cap and sure enough the center was rotted. As soon as he touched the vaulve pin it started leaking. "your going to need a new TPM sir" was the next thing I heard. He did not have a replacement and only had rubber valve stems. Long story short, that perfectly lined up spare in now on the truck and the rim with the rubber valve is now my spare til I can order a new TPM... The best laid plans of mice and men...

 

Sorry, I missed the question on the next post. I took a close look today, raining and cold, so not really that close ; ^), but it appears to be the mud flaps. They are ridged and attached to the flairs and when I turn the wheels it is very close. If I hit a bump while the wheels are turned (backing into my driveway) I hear the rub for a quick second. I think I'll be out there trimming them, before I tear one off.

 

Looks good! Only thing left is to get rid of the nerfs

 

Can't get rid of them, even if I wanted to. Wife & daughter are tiny, plus older parent can't get in without them. It will only be worse if I do the body lift. If I ever take it off road I guess I could remove them. I'm guessing I need to remove the flairs to go off road also, although I think the lift would help that part.

 

That post makes me laugh because I used to say that same thing.

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e7/#post231413

Now the wife and kids jump up in! We take my parents car or they follow if we go out to dinner these days.

You should make it to RC with the guys sometime, it's a good time!

 

You have any pictures of your CE hood decal?

 

I looked into both the factory one and the eBay unit, very little difference. The eBay one has an 1/8 extra material to install under the hood grill. The factory one has a little over hang, but also has extended tabs. Big difference is price, that is if you can find a factory decal. I went with the eBay decal. The next issue is if you have had the hood grill recall, it would be very hard to remove the grill to install either of them. In my case, I was hood grill number three globally to blow off on the road. One of the reasons for the recall. My hood grill is glued down with what looks like windshield adhesive (black, thick) and has a small gasket down the back of it. This was a problem. There was no way to get the decal under the grill. I paid a "professional" to install it because I did not want to screw it up. It should be trimmed and butted up against the grill. This "professional" free hand cut it on my hood and left a gap. I was pissed and I know I could have done a much better job. I ended up masking off the very small gap and running a little black gasket maker/sealer down the seam. I used my finger to give a nice small slope and then removed the masking tape. It worked perfect and no one would ever know. It looks like it was part of the recall gasket.





I'll see if I can get a close up for you next time I go out.