After 6 hrs of hair pulling and knuckle skinning and computer time, I finally got the new upper intermediate shaft one in my son's H3. The operation itself turned out to be quite simple but rying to find the procedure is what took the time. I found plenty about the lower shaft and nothing on the upper, so decided to worry it through. After removing upper and lower shaft bolts, it was obvious that the steering column had to be slid back. The major worry after reading all the warnings about locking the wheel in place or you could screw up the airbag and electrical components etc. I went back to the computer for another hour searching in vain. Finally decided to chance it and Praise Be, nothing exploded or burned up.
I decided to do a write up on it so others wouldn't have to go in circles like I did and when I googled this site I noticed something 3 or 4 spaces down and lo and behold the factory procedures at this site.
http://achim1000.bplaced.net/hummerf...G%20COLUMN.pdf
It is quite long and detailed and you have to do a lot of reading so I'm going to go ahead and give the simplified version I did today;

If your not familiar with the steering system, this may seem a mystery but as soon as you look under the car and dash you'll understand it immediately.
1 - Disconnect the battery
2 - Wheels straight ahead and steering locked either with the pin mentioned in the lower shaft write ups or as my son's '06, the steering locks when the key is removed.
3 - remove the lower shaft bolt with long extension through the wheel well (I slit the rubber shield for easier access) and work coupling loose and let it hang there.
4 - remove upper shaft bolt inside car.
5 - I don't know if it's necessary but I carefully marked the position of the 4 bolt/washers holding the steering column in place to be sure it went precisely back in place. You can remove the lower plastic dash panel for better visibility by removing the brake release screws and just pop the panel back.
6 - pull steering column back a couple inches, coupling should come apart easily. I had my wife hold column out while I worked under dash.
7 - remove the nuts holding the shaft flange to the firewall.
8 - wiggle the old shaft out and the new one back in.
9 - just reverse the procedure and put her back together.
If anyone spots any additions or corrections, post them and I'll add it.

It really tee's me off that this whole mess could have been eliminated if they had just held the rubber coupling together with 2 bolts as was done for years, instead of large swaged rivets. If accessible I could have drilled or ground them off, and replace them with bolts, it would have been a breeze to change. But why make it so you could service it in 1/2 hour for $50, when you can make it to last 2 or 3 hours for $2 -300???

I'm also going to check if the universal joint is available and replace the old one so we have a standby. I know they're swaged in but they can be replaced by cutting out the X and carefully grinding out the swage upsets.
Many "non servicable driveshafts" can be done that way also.

 

What was the problem or symptoms that the Original steering shat was bad?

 

Universal joint was disintegrating. all bearings on one side broke up and fell out.

 

Can't find them.

 

You are NOT going to "find them"?, in a 7yr old thread.

 

You dug up an OLD as DIRT thread to ask a question from people who are not here. Please avoid that in the future and READ my link in blue below.

READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'