Don't want to partake in any "necro bumping," but I wanted to share some things from my experience replacing my OEM rear shocks with a new set from Monroe last weekend. Really the only thread that talked about the issue I had was this thread from 2015 titled Removing rear shocks 2006 H3. I'll preface everything here by saying that I am in no way a big time experienced DIY guy or mechanic but I've been learning/doing a lot on my 2008 H3 just recently thanks in part to this forum and YouTube.

So I was able to remove/replace the rear passenger side shock without issue. The one thing that helped me out big time was something I got from a YouTube video where a guy mentioned putting your jack under the large bottom bolt area after you've attached the two smaller bolts up top so that once you cut the zip tie, the shock will not expand all the way down before you get it bolted. It was late so I decided to wait and do the driver's side shock in the morning thinking it would only take me about 15-20 minutes. For some reason, I decided to remove the large bottom bolt first (not sure why) and then hit the two up top. Used a Milwaukee M12 Fuel impact driver to get the top wheel-side bolt out but when I went to get the inside bolt out, it just kept spinning on me. I wasn't 100% sure at the time what was up there other than some sort of nut because you can't see it but after a few minutes going at it, I grabbed some wrenches and took a guess as to what size would fit the nut up there. Ended up being a 13mm btw. It really didn't want to grab the nut that well but I finally was able to free it and remove the shock. I wanted to see what contraption GM put up there to keep the nut in place so I pushed the 4 locking clips in at each corner and popped out this rusty old clip that held the two nuts in place. They were free-spinning but welded inside some area so that they could not be removed pressing up and down or side to side. Well one side of this clip was completely broken in half so I could pull the nut out. Figured I might as well just replace the bolt and nut before installing the new shock so I went up to Ace Hardware and grabbed a couple Grade 8 40mm M8 1.25pitch flange bolts w/ the M8 flange nuts.

But here's where it all went south...I don't know if it was just inexperience, stupidity, bad luck, or all three combined, but because the other side of the clip was not broken and everything seemed to be working fine, I decided to keep the nut and the clip frame intact and use only the new bolt on the old side and both the new bolt and nut on the broken side. And when I went to install it, I put the side with the new bolt on the inside (the easier side to work on) and the old part on the outside closer to the wheel. Proceeded to tighten everything with my power tool and then get the bottom bolt attached and then I would go back with the torque wrench to tighten to spec and that's when I noticed that the previously non-broken side with the original bolt and nut was just spinning. Couldn't tighten it anymore and couldn't loosen it anymore to remove the nut. Tried to get back there with the 13mm to grab hold of it but I just couldn't get it to grab. Mind you, I was by myself and on my back with both arms straightened so leverage was not on my side here but I just couldn't get it. I was at it for probably 4 hours trying everything I could to get that nut to hold, but with the position I was in coupled with the fact that I was completely blind just feeling my way around up there, I didn't get anywhere. Figured I would have to get my buddy to stop by with a grinder to cut the bolt out

Sorry for the long background and probably too much detail, but I was just really surprised that hardly anyone outside of that one thread over 6 years ago had mentioned any trouble with those nut clips or whatever their official name is. By the end of the night, I had actually taken some pliers and ripped the entire clip out from above because it had made me so mad. The next day – with my sore upper chest and noodle arms – my buddy came with a better 13mm wrench and we were able to free the new bolt from the old nut. I really think it all came down to leverage though. Was just too difficult to do one handed.

The moral of the story here is if you are changing out your OEM shocks, I would HIGHLY ADVISE you to toss the old rusty bolt clips to the side and use brand new, high quality hardware to bolt the top part of the rear shocks. I'm sure others might have clips that are in better shape than mine were (106,000 miles) but trust me, it's not worth the hassle of potentially having to remove it later. I lost an entire day that I could have spent hanging out with my son over one freaking bolt and nut. Hope this thread lives on and someone sees it before dealing with the same issue I had. But if you do, don't try and get it out for 4-5 hours like I did. Almost rounded the nut to the point where it would have to be cut out and not enough strength or leverage to do much of anything from your back. I really wish I would have taken a picture of the clip so that people could see what I am talking about. I have yet to see an image of the OEM clip anywhere and the image that was shared in the thread I linked here is not the same clip whatsoever. Good luck to everyone else replacing their shocks! It really isn't hard to do at all unless you encounter what I did.

 

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NUT, Shock Absorber/Strut, NUT,REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (UPPER)(M8X1.25,11.1)(U-NUT)

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BOLT, HEXAGON W/CONICAL WASHER,M8X1.25X30,20 THREAD,24 OUTSIDE DIAMETER,10.9,GMW4205,MAT POINT(REAR SHOCK ABSORBER)