Protype Roof rack
#1
03-05-2009 | 11:06 AM
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 126
From: Louisville, KY
Custom Prototype Roof Rack
Ok guys, we have made a prototype roof rack we are thinking about making a jig for and manufacturing for resale. Opinions would be highly appreciated. We have no idea on the base cost as of yet. A total would depend on the finished product verses materials, size and accessories. It would also be a few more months before we would be able to begin production as we are currently working on construction of a new shop. The rack is made of high grade cold rolled steel, with a grid based floor, meaning it will hold a man no problem. The rack will bolt directly to the roof rails and line up about the same width with no hangover. We could make them longer for customers without a sunroof. We are also looking into counter sinking roof lighting into the side deflectors, two on each side that would match the lower grill driving lights in design. The center shield has been left for flush placement of a custom tool or small storage box of sorts.
The rack will allow a 37” spare to fit between the collapsible folding ladder and the high lift jack. The ladder hinges at the top, breaks in half via a center second hinge, also the rungs fold upwards and then hinge up and over to sit beside the tire. This keeps it out of the way! The rack is designed to hold a high lift jack in a “jack guard” protective case. The jack can be easily removed from the back by the cover while still on the rack, or the rack is designed for “drop in” use, meaning the entire case can lift up and out then be taken down!
Our concerns are materials, metal verses aluminum. This effects durability, rust issues, and shipping costs based on weight. Ease of use. Finish, powder coating verses professional truck bed lining. Accessories such as the air deflector storage and lighting systems, shovel and ax mounts, cb mounts, etc. Looks are important as many rack on the market do not address wind drag issues. Especially if a tire is mounted on top. Thank for the input!
Bricks
Note the Jack Guard Drop In Rail Guards.
Access from the lift from the roof or you can remove the entire unit by simply pulling up and out.
The forward air deflector is welded in at a sharp angle providing better wind resistance. There is room for additional reccessed lighting on either side and storage space in the center.
The roof ladder breaks down and folds away neatly beside the tire.
Above is a picture of the break in the folding ladder section. Double welded with a rubber insert for strength.
The unfolded ladder rests agaist the heavy welded seem of the rear door allowing extra support without wapring or bending the sheet metal. Rubber bumper pads are used to protect the paint.
Aircraft t6061 aluminum is used for the folding rung system.
Rated at a 750lb load rate each section the rungs are under a half inch thick cut for traction and strong as sin.
Folding ladder completely extracted for use.
Let us know what you think? Ideas and improvements are always welcome. Also check out the Hummer Forum gallery for our pics that include a custom center dash console and our other NON Hummer Protytype project!
The rack will allow a 37” spare to fit between the collapsible folding ladder and the high lift jack. The ladder hinges at the top, breaks in half via a center second hinge, also the rungs fold upwards and then hinge up and over to sit beside the tire. This keeps it out of the way! The rack is designed to hold a high lift jack in a “jack guard” protective case. The jack can be easily removed from the back by the cover while still on the rack, or the rack is designed for “drop in” use, meaning the entire case can lift up and out then be taken down!
Our concerns are materials, metal verses aluminum. This effects durability, rust issues, and shipping costs based on weight. Ease of use. Finish, powder coating verses professional truck bed lining. Accessories such as the air deflector storage and lighting systems, shovel and ax mounts, cb mounts, etc. Looks are important as many rack on the market do not address wind drag issues. Especially if a tire is mounted on top. Thank for the input!
Bricks
Note the Jack Guard Drop In Rail Guards.
Access from the lift from the roof or you can remove the entire unit by simply pulling up and out.
The forward air deflector is welded in at a sharp angle providing better wind resistance. There is room for additional reccessed lighting on either side and storage space in the center.
The roof ladder breaks down and folds away neatly beside the tire.
Above is a picture of the break in the folding ladder section. Double welded with a rubber insert for strength.
The unfolded ladder rests agaist the heavy welded seem of the rear door allowing extra support without wapring or bending the sheet metal. Rubber bumper pads are used to protect the paint.
Aircraft t6061 aluminum is used for the folding rung system.
Rated at a 750lb load rate each section the rungs are under a half inch thick cut for traction and strong as sin.
Folding ladder completely extracted for use.
Let us know what you think? Ideas and improvements are always welcome. Also check out the Hummer Forum gallery for our pics that include a custom center dash console and our other NON Hummer Protytype project!
Last edited by BrickWurX Mfg.; 03-05-2009 at 11:28 AM.
#2
03-05-2009 | 12:21 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,341
From: Connecticut
That looks absolutely bitchin! I like the idea of the intergrated lights. I don't have a sun roof and would want a longer model. I think I would pass on the ladder though. Its a nice design, don't get me wrong, but I think a hard mount standard ladder would work for me. Keep me posted on it. I was going to order a yakima rack just to get by, but I think I'll hold off until you've got a date for your rack.
I would vote for powder coating with an option of bedliner for those who want it. And maybe even try to get it even lower to the roof line?
I would vote for powder coating with an option of bedliner for those who want it. And maybe even try to get it even lower to the roof line?
#6
03-05-2009 | 04:26 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 347
From:
I like the look of the rack and your general design. The attention to wind drag is probably very significant. The H3 is already enough of a brick without additional help.
I wonder if use of so much steel will result in too much weight so high on the vehicle. I'm thinking that use of aluminum with steel used only where the strength is really needed.
I wonder if use of so much steel will result in too much weight so high on the vehicle. I'm thinking that use of aluminum with steel used only where the strength is really needed.
#7
03-05-2009 | 05:05 PM
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 126
From: Louisville, KY
DAGKANA
The roof is curved, check yours from a back side view. This kept us from getting the rack closer. Bowing the frame may work but will take extra work. Plus I like the idea of being able to slide something between the roof and rack in order to clean it!
Gregaac
The box is a spare tire vent cover that houses a Global com military design GPS Data and Nav system.
Provenceman
Check your Internet setting, that may help. If photo bucket is upgrading or doing maintenance you may not be able to view.
BmEcko21
While I own a fabrication business, I have a full time job elsewhere. The window warnings are for the K9 we often have in the truck. People goggling the window tends to freak to dog out. As for the building, believe it or not it is a condemned crematorium at the end of a very old condemned cemetery. We make rounds through the area and chase people off because of its downtown location. Our shop is close by. In fact, you can read in the picture, the close up foot rung, in reverse in the glass reflexion, just what they think of how often we are running people off the property!
Bflank
The rack weighs in at about 76lbs. Not including the spare or jack. Aluminum is definitely being looked at. Downside is strength. Still a bit less than a Gobi Rack concerning weight.
The roof is curved, check yours from a back side view. This kept us from getting the rack closer. Bowing the frame may work but will take extra work. Plus I like the idea of being able to slide something between the roof and rack in order to clean it!
Gregaac
The box is a spare tire vent cover that houses a Global com military design GPS Data and Nav system.
Provenceman
Check your Internet setting, that may help. If photo bucket is upgrading or doing maintenance you may not be able to view.
BmEcko21
While I own a fabrication business, I have a full time job elsewhere. The window warnings are for the K9 we often have in the truck. People goggling the window tends to freak to dog out. As for the building, believe it or not it is a condemned crematorium at the end of a very old condemned cemetery. We make rounds through the area and chase people off because of its downtown location. Our shop is close by. In fact, you can read in the picture, the close up foot rung, in reverse in the glass reflexion, just what they think of how often we are running people off the property!
Bflank
The rack weighs in at about 76lbs. Not including the spare or jack. Aluminum is definitely being looked at. Downside is strength. Still a bit less than a Gobi Rack concerning weight.
#9
03-05-2009 | 10:59 PM
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 126
From: Louisville, KY
If you buy a mounting kit, which is an angled piece of aluminum u can flip it upside down and cut a small section from the rear lower rocker panel (plastic) behind the bumper. The trick is to first remove the inner fender (five bolts & some plastic push pins). Then remove the single bolt on the inside of the rocker behind the fender. There are a few push pins on the underside and three Phillips screws on the inside section below the door opening directly behind the rear bumper. You can then remove the Plastic rocker completely.
Remember to mark the mounting area first buy placing the bracket on the rocker before removal, don't forget to mark the body panel to. You will need to cut a tab for the mounting bracket and drill a whole for the antenna base. This will secure the base and rocker without the need for extra support. We added a painted aluminum bar, but that is overkill.
Once the rocker is out you can drill the hole and cut a lip at the edge. Next use self taping screws instead of the bolts to install the CB mount the the lower inside fender(metal). With the lip facing down, the rocker will cover the screws. You may want to install the antenna temporarily as you will need to adjust the mount from front to back to ensure it looks level. Washers can be added under the lower screws as spacers to make sure it sits along the trucks body properly.
Once the bracket is mounted you can re install the rocker. Before you re install the fender well plastic, remove the tail light (two screws on the inside of the door). Notice the grommet for the lighting wires, this is a good place to feed the antenna wire through the body without drilling a big hole. Cut the grommet from twelve o'clock to center, and feed the antenna wire inside then re install the grommet. Run the wire down behind the fender and re install the tail light. Use the antenna mounting tab to mount the aluminum bracket to the lower rocker then screw on the antenna end from the space located in the open area of the fender well. Once the wiring is mounted, re install the fender well!
Sound like a lot of trouble, but its easier than it looks.
Remember to mark the mounting area first buy placing the bracket on the rocker before removal, don't forget to mark the body panel to. You will need to cut a tab for the mounting bracket and drill a whole for the antenna base. This will secure the base and rocker without the need for extra support. We added a painted aluminum bar, but that is overkill.
Once the rocker is out you can drill the hole and cut a lip at the edge. Next use self taping screws instead of the bolts to install the CB mount the the lower inside fender(metal). With the lip facing down, the rocker will cover the screws. You may want to install the antenna temporarily as you will need to adjust the mount from front to back to ensure it looks level. Washers can be added under the lower screws as spacers to make sure it sits along the trucks body properly.
Once the bracket is mounted you can re install the rocker. Before you re install the fender well plastic, remove the tail light (two screws on the inside of the door). Notice the grommet for the lighting wires, this is a good place to feed the antenna wire through the body without drilling a big hole. Cut the grommet from twelve o'clock to center, and feed the antenna wire inside then re install the grommet. Run the wire down behind the fender and re install the tail light. Use the antenna mounting tab to mount the aluminum bracket to the lower rocker then screw on the antenna end from the space located in the open area of the fender well. Once the wiring is mounted, re install the fender well!
Sound like a lot of trouble, but its easier than it looks.