I did a search, and found a solution that worked for most... but it didnt work for me. I have a 2006 H3. The power door locks stopped locking/unlocking with the fob, and the switches in the doors. Also, the driver side window does not roll down, but all the others do. normally i wouldnt really care, and i'd just lock/unlock manually... but i use the hatch a lot, and it sucks not being able to get in there with the back door locked.

The solution that worked for most (that i have read on other threads) was to disconnect the battery cables, touch them together, then leave the cables off for about 5 minutes, then re-attach the battery cables. I tried, and failed.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? i'd rather fix this myself than bring it up to the dealership.

Thanks

 

i have a 07 h3 mine done same thing.pulled switches and cleaned all connectors and added some dielectric grease and also cleaned conector where wiring harness plugs in door fixed my problem hope this helps

 

I just switched my entire driver side door lock assembly, and now everything works.

 

k so im not sure how... but after i created this thread, i went out to a concert... the door locks still not working. but when i got back home, i shut it off, and all the doors unlocked automatically. i'm just glad it works again. thanks for the responses!

 

Im glad it fixed itself. Its hard to diagnose to problem now its working. I hope it stays working for ya.

 

when i first read this i didnt connect,maybe the window thing thru me.
now i remember it happened b4 in my 07 and 10 but i never tried the window at the time.

i will at times park and hit lock on the remote,nothing. i manually lock,go shop, come back and clik open and it works,sometime the 2 nd try.

last yr i posted it and was convinced it was related to SOMETHING else i did,which i now dont recall!! like ??? ill search,aznd next time ill check the driver window.

it never lasted long, so, dont change all the parts!!,i think it in the "brain"

 

I have had an 06 an 08 and now a 10 and all have done that at one time or another.

 

The several posts about disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together and then waiting anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes.....ABSOLUTELY WORKED!!!! I am a happy guy.. This site saved me some money, as I was scheduled to bring my truck into the garage today for service..

 

I tried everything from fuse 8/68/77/ unplug battery terminals for 30 minutes/shorted terminals - NADA- nothing worked- Guys, I am frustrated, any other solution? or do I have to change window switch?? what if i purchase and still doesn't work?

 

Hey,

To start this trick may work for you but it did for me. That being said, I will not be responsible in the even you try this trick and end up damaging the master switch even more.

So I ran into this problem about two weeks ago. Checked the fuses, seemed to be ok. I removed the master switch from the door, inspected harness connections for corrosion to my surprise were in really good shape at the switch itself and at the bottom of the door. All A-OK.

So sadly I came to the conclusion that it was the switch itself that was malfunctioning and with a replacement being around $200+ I wasn't too thrilled.

Howevr, when I brought the switch into inspect the circuit board I had left it indoors overnight. When I plugged it back in it worked until outside temperature reaches below -25 and it was dead again. I though maybe the connector wasn't sitting properly do I detached and reattached it. Still the driver side window and locks were unresponsive. Took it back inside. Left it overnight and the same thing happened again where it worked for a for a bit then stopped.

Isolating the problem to the switch itself (not happy,not a cheap replacement) I remembered a trick I use to use when my computer graphics cards would start malfunctioning when microscopic cracks would form in the soldering.

I completely took the switches circuit board out of its housing, turned my oven to 385 degrees, made 4 little tinfoil ***** to prop the board off of a cooking sheet at its corners and away from any actual circuit lines and left it in the oven for 7mins. What this does is melt the soldering. The only thing is is while it's hot you have to be extremely carful not to hit bump or drop the board because the solder joints will be ina liquid state so I suggest leaving it in the oven until both the oven and board cool complelty.

Plugged it in and it's been better ever since. This isn't to say it would be a completely different problem in some situations but in my situation it was a failing master switch.

​​​​​​I also had a parasitic battery drain I though may be related but that turned out to be trailer hook up harness that had bare wires from rubbing against the body right between where the bumper and body meet. From what I understand even with the wires being in perfect shape they can still magically ground to the body through the wires insulator. Just be carful checking this because if you happen to snap the corroded ground wire attached to the frame your file pump will stop working as well.