Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

No Power, new battery, stuck key

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 04-27-2014, 12:29 PM
happythree's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,005
Default

probably meant mega fuse, in series with generator/alt only. should run without it but no charge.
you must have main fuse block trouble.
 
  #22  
Old 04-28-2014, 07:59 AM
Happy Hummer's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,458
Default

Yep sorry mega fuse.
I agree you've got a short or open in your h3.
Chris
 
  #23  
Old 04-28-2014, 08:07 AM
Happy Hummer's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,458
  #24  
Old 04-28-2014, 06:35 PM
hummerz's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: C-Town
Posts: 8,205
Default

Originally Posted by Happy Hummer
A multimeter will diagnose the source of the problem.
 
  #25  
Old 04-29-2014, 07:22 AM
loud pipes's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 53
Default

Ok, I'm not that good with electric so I am sure that I am missing something. I did end up changing out the starter. The solenoid was really corroded and the negative terminal plastic housing was cracked. But that didn't do it. I will disassemble and reconnected the main harnesses to the fuse block next. The top of the block, where the fuses go, all has power. The alternator has power as well. But the starter does not, nor does the dash, ignition, fuel pump, dome lights, etc. So you're probably right, something must not be connected all the way with the fusebox. I'd like to say I'll try that again tonight, but we've got some nasty storms coming through so it might not happen until later in the week.

Thanks again everybody. I really appreciate you all helping me with this.
 
  #26  
Old 04-29-2014, 07:49 AM
Doc Olds's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Boat Town USA MI
Posts: 12,411
Default

Tip for the fuse box.

The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.

Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
 
  #27  
Old 04-29-2014, 11:26 AM
loud pipes's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 53
Default

Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Tip for the fuse box.

The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.

Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
Thanks, Doc. I have pulled and reconnected the fuse box 2x, just like you suggested, mainly because I was afraid of bending pins by pushing down on the main harnesses without being able to see. I will do it again, but I might gently use a c-clamp vice grip to settle the harnesses into the bottom of the fuse box a little more than I can do by hand. With finesse, obviously.

Thank you for the tip!
 
  #28  
Old 04-30-2014, 07:43 AM
loud pipes's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 53
Default

I completely disassembled and disconnected the fuse box last night, reassembled it as well, made sure the main harnesses snapped all the way in place, and still no luck. But I am narrowing it down:

- battery is good
- mega fuse is good
- power to alternator
- fuses are good

However,

- no power is going to the Ignition fuse (#33)
- no power at the starter solenoid
- no brake lights, head lights, dash lights or dome lights

I would have said my ignition is bad, except those last 3 points throw me. Does a bad ignition in the H3 shut down all electric, like a kill switch?
 
  #29  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:35 AM
happythree's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,005
Default

you really need to be looking at the wiring info in the book or download svc manual.

its not hard to follow and you get first info, not 2nd hand guesses. it shows all fuses and relays, and yes the ignition sw pretty much enables all relays that control everything in the h3.
what you probably have is a very simple but hard to pin down open circuit.
 

Last edited by happythree; 04-30-2014 at 10:38 AM.
  #30  
Old 05-01-2014, 05:20 PM
CConNJ's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 3
Default Make sure truck is fully in park?

I know this sounds stupid, but if the key is locked in ignition, and the there is no response from the ignition switch, are you sure the truck is fully in the park position? I had to hook up a jump box directly to the +/- battery cables before and reengage the vehicle in Park, on a company truck. After, problem solved.
 


Quick Reply: No Power, new battery, stuck key



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:59 PM.