No Power, new battery, stuck key
#23
#24
#25
Ok, I'm not that good with electric so I am sure that I am missing something. I did end up changing out the starter. The solenoid was really corroded and the negative terminal plastic housing was cracked. But that didn't do it. I will disassemble and reconnected the main harnesses to the fuse block next. The top of the block, where the fuses go, all has power. The alternator has power as well. But the starter does not, nor does the dash, ignition, fuel pump, dome lights, etc. So you're probably right, something must not be connected all the way with the fusebox. I'd like to say I'll try that again tonight, but we've got some nasty storms coming through so it might not happen until later in the week.
Thanks again everybody. I really appreciate you all helping me with this.
Thanks again everybody. I really appreciate you all helping me with this.
#26
Tip for the fuse box.
The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.
Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.
Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
#27
Tip for the fuse box.
The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.
Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
The bottom two harness connectors snap out of the bottom so you can lift them up a bit and carefully make sure, by feel, that each of those snaps in tightly to the bottom of the fuse block. When you are sure that is all good, then you snap the fuse block and harness connectors down into the lower fuse box at the same time.
Every time this gets screwed up is because somebody left the harness connectors snapped in the bottom of the box and tried to get the fuse block down on top of those.
Thank you for the tip!
#28
I completely disassembled and disconnected the fuse box last night, reassembled it as well, made sure the main harnesses snapped all the way in place, and still no luck. But I am narrowing it down:
- battery is good
- mega fuse is good
- power to alternator
- fuses are good
However,
- no power is going to the Ignition fuse (#33)
- no power at the starter solenoid
- no brake lights, head lights, dash lights or dome lights
I would have said my ignition is bad, except those last 3 points throw me. Does a bad ignition in the H3 shut down all electric, like a kill switch?
- battery is good
- mega fuse is good
- power to alternator
- fuses are good
However,
- no power is going to the Ignition fuse (#33)
- no power at the starter solenoid
- no brake lights, head lights, dash lights or dome lights
I would have said my ignition is bad, except those last 3 points throw me. Does a bad ignition in the H3 shut down all electric, like a kill switch?
#29
you really need to be looking at the wiring info in the book or download svc manual.
its not hard to follow and you get first info, not 2nd hand guesses. it shows all fuses and relays, and yes the ignition sw pretty much enables all relays that control everything in the h3.
what you probably have is a very simple but hard to pin down open circuit.
its not hard to follow and you get first info, not 2nd hand guesses. it shows all fuses and relays, and yes the ignition sw pretty much enables all relays that control everything in the h3.
what you probably have is a very simple but hard to pin down open circuit.
Last edited by happythree; 04-30-2014 at 10:38 AM.
#30
Make sure truck is fully in park?
I know this sounds stupid, but if the key is locked in ignition, and the there is no response from the ignition switch, are you sure the truck is fully in the park position? I had to hook up a jump box directly to the +/- battery cables before and reengage the vehicle in Park, on a company truck. After, problem solved.