Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

No Power, new battery, stuck key

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  #11  
Old 04-14-2014 | 02:10 PM
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Have you had any work done on it recently, possibly of the electrical variety? Sounds like your fuse block is not snapped into the fuse block connectors for the harness that come in from underneath?

No juice to the truck is what happens when people mess with the fuse box and do not get it back together completely.

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  #12  
Old 04-14-2014 | 05:34 PM
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Yes! New alternator. I will get in there this week so check it out and see if it was reconnected correctly. Thanks!
 
  #13  
Old 04-15-2014 | 03:28 AM
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I'm not sure changing the alternator would require removal of the fuse block. Perhaps check the wiring around the alternator, maybe somethings loose or frayed...?
 
  #14  
Old 04-15-2014 | 10:20 AM
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[QUOTE][ I still need to check the ground/QUOTE]

doesnt the batt ground go to/near the alt on the block?

im looking....later,,.looked!

reversal of ground and alt cable?? should not be possible,BUT they are side by side.!

IF rev,the plus batt cable would be at ground thru the 125 amp mega fuse, the minus batt would would go to the alt plus output and to ground thru the alt diodes blowing the mega fuse! with a bang im sure. so thats unlikely unless there was a bang we didnt hear about!

later again, if that actually happened the batt plus would still be connected to the rest of power distribution and the minus ground thru the alt. something would/should work.
im really interested in this one! im thinking more that Doc has it figured.
 

Last edited by happythree; 04-15-2014 at 11:00 AM.
  #15  
Old 04-15-2014 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CurtisP87
I'm not sure changing the alternator would require removal of the fuse block.
When you do it from the Top, it does.

The book method is to remove the diver side wheel and inner fender to access it, and access is very limited that way at best, and do it from the bottom/side. The top is no faster, but access is better.
 
  #16  
Old 04-15-2014 | 09:48 PM
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I changed my alternator from the top by removing the fusebox, rather than disconnecting the A/C. I put it all back together and nothing. I went back and took the fusebox apart and back together and made sure all the parts snapped together and WALLA..power.

Give it a try .........it's a little tedious, disconnect the battery and start working your way down, look closely how the plastic snaps and unsnaps, you can get down to the bottom of the fuse tray. Slowly put it back together.

Should take an hour to an hour and a half.

Good Luck
 
  #17  
Old 04-15-2014 | 10:11 PM
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looking at the picture of the big fuse box it must be bolted down and looks like it can be moved up out of the way as you probably did.
if i ever did that i would leave out the mounting bolts so next time it could be moved while intact. no more unplugging that monster .
like the batt its not going anywhere and could be tied in place if youre a worrier!
i have a home made tray for two batteries in there with no hold down. they are too heavy to go anywhere!

i hope we get an answer to this. im thinking its the box also.
 
  #18  
Old 04-25-2014 | 08:36 PM
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Ok, more things rules out. Fuse box is hot, alternator is hot. Key is still stuck and all power is killed. No dome light, headlights, nothing. Next things to check:

- neutral safety switch (is there one?), does the truck not know it's in park?
- ignition switch/solenoid
- what else?
 
  #19  
Old 04-25-2014 | 10:26 PM
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Alright let's start at the beginning.
You've checked and or verified each of the following?
1 grounds at chassis and starter battery are solid & clean
2 battery is brand new and fully charged
3 fuse box tests o.k.
4 dvm displays 12.9 v at battery, starter, fuse box, ignition
5 starter not ceased
6 you've verified main ecu is plugged in and all the leads / pins are clean
7 main fusible link is not burned out
8 all other connections are clean and tightly plugged
you've got a short or open in your harness?
Chris
 
  #20  
Old 04-27-2014 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Happy Hummer
Alright let's start at the beginning.
You've checked and or verified each of the following?
1 grounds at chassis and starter battery are solid & clean
2 battery is brand new and fully charged
3 fuse box tests o.k.
4 dvm displays 12.9 v at battery, starter, fuse box, ignition
5 starter not ceased
6 you've verified main ecu is plugged in and all the leads / pins are clean
7 main fusible link is not burned out
8 all other connections are clean and tightly plugged
you've got a short or open in your harness?
Chris
Thanks, Chris. I've now done (redone) the following:

1. Cleaned all grounds at battery, chassis and engine block.
2. Battery is brand new, tests at 12.6v vs 12.9
3. Tested fuse box and fuses
4. Replaced the starter as the old solenoid was rotting
5. Verified ecu is plugged in and connections is cleaned and tight
6. Checked all other harness connections that I could find or follow

What I did not do and don't know about is a main fusible link? I'm not sure what that is and couldn't find anything in my research. Can you tell me where that is and if it's an inline fuse on a main or something?

Thanks for all of your help,
Bill
 



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