No Power, new battery, stuck key
#1
No Power, new battery, stuck key
2006 H3, Adventure and Luxury packages, 132k miles, 3.5L auto transmission.
I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.
My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.
Thank you in advance guys.
I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.
My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.
- I confirmed the new battery was good using a tester
- I tried jumping the new battery as well, still completely dead
- Cleaned battery posts/terminals, cables and made sure no looseness exists when the cables are connected
- Confirmed no broken wires in the cables
- Checked all fuses, those are good as well
Thank you in advance guys.
#3
It's a good thought and I should have mentioned I checked that, too! It has to be something simple that I am missing or disturbed. The one thing I did not check was the ground off the negative cable. Maybe I disturbed that somehow.
#4
2006 H3, Adventure and Luxury packages, 132k miles, 3.5L auto transmission.
I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.
My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.
Thank you in advance guys.
I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.
My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.
- I confirmed the new battery was good using a tester
- I tried jumping the new battery as well, still completely dead
- Cleaned battery posts/terminals, cables and made sure no looseness exists when the cables are connected
- Confirmed no broken wires in the cables
- Checked all fuses, those are good as well
Thank you in advance guys.
Also, does the Passlock system completely kill all power, or just shut off the injectors? Would it kill the dome light when the door opens? Trying to determine whether that is causing any problems...
#5
Check your better connection, people on here have problems with the connectors not being tight enough which will cause your symptoms. Mine does it once in a while. I make sure connection is tight, there is a sweet spot on mine.. I am going to change the connectors sometime. Someone told me to soak my connectors in baking soda and water to get any crap off, never tried that yet, but I know baking soda is bad for batteries. Gl
#8
ok,if its still not fixed i have more simple dumb ideas!!
my last new batt came with plastic covers on the big fat terminals.
it would be impossible to put the cables on over them huh??,,right??
it starts to sound like zero connection huh?
ps i would NEVER EVER cut the entire crimped on factory connectors and use those cute conn with the little set screws that squeese the bare copper, never.
my last new batt came with plastic covers on the big fat terminals.
it would be impossible to put the cables on over them huh??,,right??
it starts to sound like zero connection huh?
ps i would NEVER EVER cut the entire crimped on factory connectors and use those cute conn with the little set screws that squeese the bare copper, never.
#10
thanks for all the ideas Happy. I still need to check the ground, but i have power from the battery as well as my cables (tested with a battery tester and continuity tester). i rules out the starter because my dome light and dash lights don't even come on. I also have power to the 2 terminals on the back side of the fuse box. It's almost like the battery power goes to the fuse box and stops right there. I've pulled the fuses and visually checked them but now need to put an ohm meter on the copper to check the fuses for sure. Damn is electrical ever challenging.