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No Power, new battery, stuck key

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  #1  
Old 04-13-2014, 09:39 AM
loud pipes's Avatar
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Default No Power, new battery, stuck key

2006 H3, Adventure and Luxury packages, 132k miles, 3.5L auto transmission.

I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.

My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.

  1. I confirmed the new battery was good using a tester
  2. I tried jumping the new battery as well, still completely dead
  3. Cleaned battery posts/terminals, cables and made sure no looseness exists when the cables are connected
  4. Confirmed no broken wires in the cables
  5. Checked all fuses, those are good as well
So I am obviously missing something. Some switch, connector, or device is cutting all power between the battery and every other electrical component on the vehicle. Any ideas???


Thank you in advance guys.
 
  #2  
Old 04-13-2014, 10:17 AM
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Default ???

you pretty much covered it...
put in backwards?!,
,my only thought at this second!

ill look when it starts raining! now outside.
 
  #3  
Old 04-13-2014, 10:20 AM
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It's a good thought and I should have mentioned I checked that, too! It has to be something simple that I am missing or disturbed. The one thing I did not check was the ground off the negative cable. Maybe I disturbed that somehow.
 
  #4  
Old 04-13-2014, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by loud pipes
2006 H3, Adventure and Luxury packages, 132k miles, 3.5L auto transmission.

I know many threads cover some of these symptoms, but my combination is driving me nuts. I hoped that starting a new thread might help dial in.

My battery went dead, totally dead, including no dome lights. Autozone confirmed, no amps being put out. So I changed it out. I opened the door AFTER the new battery, still no dome lights. Put in the key anyway, tried to start it and 100% dead. No dash lights, dome lights, nothing. Now, of course, the key is also stuck.

  1. I confirmed the new battery was good using a tester
  2. I tried jumping the new battery as well, still completely dead
  3. Cleaned battery posts/terminals, cables and made sure no looseness exists when the cables are connected
  4. Confirmed no broken wires in the cables
  5. Checked all fuses, those are good as well
So I am obviously missing something. Some switch, connector, or device is cutting all power between the battery and every other electrical component on the vehicle. Any ideas???


Thank you in advance guys.

Also, does the Passlock system completely kill all power, or just shut off the injectors? Would it kill the dome light when the door opens? Trying to determine whether that is causing any problems...
 
  #5  
Old 04-13-2014, 02:39 PM
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Check your better connection, people on here have problems with the connectors not being tight enough which will cause your symptoms. Mine does it once in a while. I make sure connection is tight, there is a sweet spot on mine.. I am going to change the connectors sometime. Someone told me to soak my connectors in baking soda and water to get any crap off, never tried that yet, but I know baking soda is bad for batteries. Gl
 
  #6  
Old 04-13-2014, 05:44 PM
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2014, 08:32 PM
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Do you have auto starter in your hummer?
Safety hood kill switch?
Check ground at frame. Replace battery connection.
Replace battery with another. Starter frozen.
Main brain box fuse or relay problem.
Chris
 
  #8  
Old 04-13-2014, 11:22 PM
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ok,if its still not fixed i have more simple dumb ideas!!
my last new batt came with plastic covers on the big fat terminals.

it would be impossible to put the cables on over them huh??,,right??

it starts to sound like zero connection huh?

ps i would NEVER EVER cut the entire crimped on factory connectors and use those cute conn with the little set screws that squeese the bare copper, never.
 
  #9  
Old 04-13-2014, 11:27 PM
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well my edit is dead so, can you measure 12 v on the cable connectors,not the batt posts but the cables? if the batt is alive the volts have to be there.
 
  #10  
Old 04-14-2014, 11:37 AM
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thanks for all the ideas Happy. I still need to check the ground, but i have power from the battery as well as my cables (tested with a battery tester and continuity tester). i rules out the starter because my dome light and dash lights don't even come on. I also have power to the 2 terminals on the back side of the fuse box. It's almost like the battery power goes to the fuse box and stops right there. I've pulled the fuses and visually checked them but now need to put an ohm meter on the copper to check the fuses for sure. Damn is electrical ever challenging.
 


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