Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

Need help my h3 is acting up!

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  #31  
Old 06-16-2014, 07:35 AM
sneakypigeons's Avatar
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I am not trying to jump to conclusion, hence why i did all the other work to try and sort it all out. Replacing the head is the last thing i want to do.
I will do an induction cleaning again. I will try it your way, and see what happens.
 
  #32  
Old 06-16-2014, 04:15 PM
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I usually use a canister and let it drip into a vacuum port, have had great success on driveability issues doing it this way.

Here's a cheap setup for the diy'er (same concept I use at my shop and what I have for personal use, just fill the canister and control flow with the valve on the line, to slowly inject the cleaner)


Fuel Injection Cleaning Canister Tool to Inject Liquid Cleaner Into A Vacuum PT | eBay
 

Last edited by hummerz; 06-16-2014 at 04:28 PM.
  #33  
Old 06-16-2014, 04:28 PM
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  #34  
Old 06-21-2014, 12:58 PM
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I got some more seafoam, found it at sears auto center on sale, $5.94 can, bought 3 cans and at checkout I received 10,000 sywr ($10.00)surprise points on any purchase. Wow, I got 3 cans for less than the price of 1 (normally around $10.00 a can).



I just did an induction clean, used a full can (1/3 in the crankcase and the 2/3 into the induction cleaning canister).

I use the vacuum port on the throttle body, slow drip, ran for about an hour( I didn't care wasting gas, I saved alot more on the seafoam).
The I5 is purring, smooth idle, no codes, much better throttle response too.

______________________________________________

Anyone that is interested in doing an induction cleaning on the I5:

Disconnect the vacuum line to the tb, (push down on the white clip, while pulling the line off)

Connect the line from an induction cleaning canister tool (I listed 1 above),
start vehicle and use something to depress accelorator so you idle at 1200-1500rpm, then open the valve just enough to get a slow drip. Let it run until the cannister is empty. Reconnect the vacuum line and take a test drive.




http://www.solidstart.biz/images/pro...ottle_Body.pdf
 
  #35  
Old 07-13-2014, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sneakypigeons
I am not trying to jump to conclusion, hence why i did all the other work to try and sort it all out. Replacing the head is the last thing i want to do.
I will do an induction cleaning again. I will try it your way, and see what happens.
I just filled the tank today, I do ALL city driving(driving 15 miles a day(m-f), no saturday driving, and maybe a couple miles on sunday), alot of stop and go traffic, I calculated 15mpg's, today..
I only performed a thorough induction cleaning and I finally decided to replace the cam actuator solenoid before last fillup, nothing done since last fillup.
Huge increase in mpg's, as I was only getting 10-12mpg's before.
Best part, I haven't received a p0300 (since 6/15).

Any updates on your rig?
 
  #36  
Old 10-26-2019, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by omarluna2
Hello everyone, I am having trouble with my 2006 Hummer H3. The H3 idles rough really bad and it sometimes turns off when I get to a red light or a stop sign. I took it to the local GM dealer but they were not able to fix the Hummer. It drives awesome on the freeway but if im in the city it tends to turn off about 1/5 of the time when I come up on a stop. The check engine light comes on and off. But, I was able to get these four codes of the machine. C0240 Powertrain Control Module traction Control Not Allowed. C0268 Class 2 Data Error Reported History. P0017 Timing Misalignment Explanation, Detected the Crank Sensor is not Aligned with Cam Sensor, Probable cause intermittent connection, Failed Crank or Cam Sensor, Engine Mechanical Condition. P0300, Cylinder misfire detected- random cylinders explanation, The powertrain control module monitors the crankshat speed and had detected a misfire condition, proable cause ignition system faul-spark plugs, ignition wires, coil, vacuum leak, injector fault, or low fuel pressure. I had the hummer at the dealer for about 18 days. Im not even sure they did anything to the Hummer honestly, I looked at the spark plugs and they were considereably shorter than i expected. Went and got the original ones and also, put a new filter on it. but, its still acting up. The dealer said it put new sensors on it, but i dont think they did. at this point i would rather do it myself. Can anyone help me?

I also had the same problems you face now I been rebuilding my hummer for three year now . I got a 07 Hummer I got a code of po300 last year and then a po305 which is a Cylinder five misfire and then I changed spark plugs and ignition coils . Once I did that my po305 was gone and then got another code which was po017 . If you changed that Sensor which brings poo17 up then the po300 will be gone as well the two codes are link . If you still got poo17 code then the sensor wasn’t changed and once it is the code will be gone . The hummer is a very difficult vehicle. Nobody really like to work on them . I take mine to a performance mechanic.
 
  #37  
Old 10-28-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cody1995
I also had the same problems you face now I been rebuilding my hummer for three year now . I got a 07 Hummer I got a code of po300 last year and then a po305 which is a Cylinder five misfire and then I changed spark plugs and ignition coils . Once I did that my po305 was gone and then got another code which was po017 . If you changed that Sensor which brings poo17 up then the po300 will be gone as well the two codes are link . If you still got poo17 code then the sensor wasn’t changed and once it is the code will be gone . The hummer is a very difficult vehicle. Nobody really like to work on them . I take mine to a performance mechanic.
You dug up a FIVE YEAR OLD + Thread to tack this on the end of it????????????

You would be wrong, H3 Hummers are one of THE easiest vehicle to work on, nothing special or secret going on. Not rocket science for sure.
 
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