Doc, I know you have seen this question a million times, and are tired of talking about it, but somewhere along the way, you got confused. Adjusting torsion bars to compensate for excessive weight can and will cause damage. Thats why they put stiffer ones in the alpha...to handle more weight. By your logic, I could put another H3 on the hood of mine, then adjust the torsion bars to level it back out, without causing damage to the bar. Your example of a shackle lift has no bearing on his original question of additional weight. Lifting doesn't fatigue springs, but weight does.

 

Well....No that is not what I said. Who said anything about "excessive weight"? Thought we were talking about winch bumpers and whether Rob should upgrade his T Bars for the appx. 400#s??? I was pointing out that the difference between a 4700# I5 and 4851# Alpha, only 100# assigned to the V8, is not gonna get you an appreciable difference in spring rate, so why bother?

Two weeks ago, I was wheeling with 3s with winch bumpers that weigh about the same as Rob's, Chris (white 3) has 46K on his 3 and never had to adjust it ever, the dealer in Chicago put the Boulder Bumper on brand spanking fresh from the factory. The two guys last weekend I was wheeling with got a lot more than 400# worth of stuff hanging all over their 3s, never had to adjust T Bars either? I get confused often, but not this time? [&o]

Two weeks ago

 

Gunner and I would be pretty friggin old(er) by the time those T bars "fail". Have notseen many late model GM snow plow trucks with T Bar failures either?

Can a spring wear out? Sure, but it takes a long time usually.

With that said, ... Alpha bars might be worth looking into if Rob is loosin sleep over it.

 

It's not that, I just want to make sure I don't adjust the Tbar and align it only to find out I have overloaded the front with weight not appropriate for the bar (you have answered my question that I can leave the stock one or go with a better one).

I also don't want to take my rig in for maintenance or some kinda warranty work and find out they want to tell me it's not covered because I did not compensate for the extra weight or whatever they might try to decline coverage.

I will take pictures after I adjust the Tbars with that 400 - 500 extra pounds ( I think it might even be more with that sweet winch ) and post them so you can all see the difference.

Basically the whole purpose of the post (sometimes I am not real clear when I write) was to ask the question: I put on a heavy new bumper and winch, what do I need to buy/do to get my truck level and take out the nose dive? That, and make sure I am doing it the right way the first time.
[align=right] [/align]

 

considering it doesent appear to be sagging much. I would say it is lighter than 400lbs. Bumper by itself is more like 220lbs and winch is 100lbs if Im correct. Beefier torsion bars would add peace of mind though.

 

Just crank them so the vehicle goes upward 1 inch. This should not be too much stress for them. If you dont like it at least you tried the free alternative.

 

You completley misread doc olds.

I'm all the way behind you doc!

 

I recently ordered the BA front bumper with winch (300lbs). I contacted a local shop to see what they would prefer to do to level the front end and compensate for the sag with the added weight. They want to put on new keys with install for $250. Would I be better off buying shocks and cranking the tbars or would just putting on new keys be alright? I have never had experience with replacing keys. Waddaya think?

 

Pretty much I want to make my front end look and preform off road exactly like the red one above.

 

So after reading about a million of Doc Olds posts I have found that buying reindexed keys is a joke on the h3. It looks like cranking stock and some Bilstein Cognitos is the preferred method on the forums.

If someone could confirm this with me, I would appreciate it. Id hate to find out that after doing this I am going to have to adjust my suspension every time I get back from roading.