Looking for direction on replacing 2006 H3 Engine
#11
I had about a 67 Chevy and you could climb in and sit on the fender wells to change plugs.
No smog, no squeezed in clearances and plenty of space around the engine so you did not have to take off three things to fix one and amazingly we did not NEED electronic black boxes to make it run.
Fuel, air and combustion!
I also had a 70 sumpthin Land Crusher FJ55 wagon and a knock off 6 cyl Cheby engine. Long stroke, Rochester two barrel carb even fit. Those wiley Japanese..........
On that I blew a hole in a piston, got a used one rings, rod and all from a friend that replaced all of his, cross hatched cleaned the cylinder walls and bolted it in with the engine in place and ran it another 100,000.
On a nother note;
That's the one I also tried to float, didn't work long. Ramp dropped off at low water. Rear end with 11-15 tires and spare and boat and trailer did float. Hard way to make the back page of 4Wheeler! Honey I sunk the Cruiser!
Pulled the plugs, already had waterproofed the distributor, changed the oil purged some gas and drove home.
Ah, the good ole days........
No smog, no squeezed in clearances and plenty of space around the engine so you did not have to take off three things to fix one and amazingly we did not NEED electronic black boxes to make it run.
Fuel, air and combustion!
I also had a 70 sumpthin Land Crusher FJ55 wagon and a knock off 6 cyl Cheby engine. Long stroke, Rochester two barrel carb even fit. Those wiley Japanese..........
On that I blew a hole in a piston, got a used one rings, rod and all from a friend that replaced all of his, cross hatched cleaned the cylinder walls and bolted it in with the engine in place and ran it another 100,000.
On a nother note;
That's the one I also tried to float, didn't work long. Ramp dropped off at low water. Rear end with 11-15 tires and spare and boat and trailer did float. Hard way to make the back page of 4Wheeler! Honey I sunk the Cruiser!
Pulled the plugs, already had waterproofed the distributor, changed the oil purged some gas and drove home.
Ah, the good ole days........
#12
here we go
oh oh,the stories! and u got more im sure.
had lunch at a friends in the 60's. 49 ford with 312 that had squeaky dry rockers on the right bank. pulled the intake,head. the oil passage did an offset. he gave me a looong drill bit,and left!!. i drilled just thru the cam bearing that had turned,(we guessed!). put it together with no new gaskets!. drove home for dinner. it was running that way when i left it yrs later!
btw,nice job on the total car wash! not a "sheep dip", but a "jeep dip'
had lunch at a friends in the 60's. 49 ford with 312 that had squeaky dry rockers on the right bank. pulled the intake,head. the oil passage did an offset. he gave me a looong drill bit,and left!!. i drilled just thru the cam bearing that had turned,(we guessed!). put it together with no new gaskets!. drove home for dinner. it was running that way when i left it yrs later!
btw,nice job on the total car wash! not a "sheep dip", but a "jeep dip'
Last edited by drtom; 04-16-2012 at 10:17 AM.
#13
I really appreciate the responses as they are proven to, once again, offer great advice. Thanks.
I am nothing but a "Shade Tree Mechanic" and was taught by a great man - my dad (RIP). Although he would have welcomed the challenge to take on replacing the engine with me, I will need to follow better judgement and seek a professional mechanic. Sorry dad!
drtom, you are correct - it is the connector that I repaired and NOT the resistor. Sorry, too! I followed the excellent post by you and others that helped me with this. I, too, took pictures and will post as soon as time permits.
I am leaning toward staying with the 3.5 engine and have found some for sale currently online. Just looking at the warranties and then will make the decision. However, I very much appreciate the post by HUNNER and to not "pronounce it dead" yet. Currently it is at the shop and they are running the diagnostics. I will share with everyone the outcome as well as my decision based on the findings. Actually, I drove it to the shop with near shut down when coming to a stop and low idle as well as the dreaded sound of a knock. Pressures read fine and temp was in the normal range - although I did not run it long and far. I really love this hummer - it is fun to drive. Thanks again everyone!
I am nothing but a "Shade Tree Mechanic" and was taught by a great man - my dad (RIP). Although he would have welcomed the challenge to take on replacing the engine with me, I will need to follow better judgement and seek a professional mechanic. Sorry dad!
drtom, you are correct - it is the connector that I repaired and NOT the resistor. Sorry, too! I followed the excellent post by you and others that helped me with this. I, too, took pictures and will post as soon as time permits.
I am leaning toward staying with the 3.5 engine and have found some for sale currently online. Just looking at the warranties and then will make the decision. However, I very much appreciate the post by HUNNER and to not "pronounce it dead" yet. Currently it is at the shop and they are running the diagnostics. I will share with everyone the outcome as well as my decision based on the findings. Actually, I drove it to the shop with near shut down when coming to a stop and low idle as well as the dreaded sound of a knock. Pressures read fine and temp was in the normal range - although I did not run it long and far. I really love this hummer - it is fun to drive. Thanks again everyone!
#14
I really appreciate the responses as they are proven to, once again, offer great advice. Thanks.
I am nothing but a "Shade Tree Mechanic" and was taught by a great man - my dad (RIP). Although he would have welcomed the challenge to take on replacing the engine with me, I will need to follow better judgement and seek a professional mechanic. Sorry dad!
drtom, you are correct - it is the connector that I repaired and NOT the resistor. Sorry, too! I followed the excellent post by you and others that helped me with this. I, too, took pictures and will post as soon as time permits.
I am leaning toward staying with the 3.5 engine and have found some for sale currently online. Just looking at the warranties and then will make the decision. However, I very much appreciate the post by HUNNER and to not "pronounce it dead" yet. Currently it is at the shop and they are running the diagnostics. I will share with everyone the outcome as well as my decision based on the findings. Actually, I drove it to the shop with near shut down when coming to a stop and low idle as well as the dreaded sound of a knock. Pressures read fine and temp was in the normal range - although I did not run it long and far. I really love this hummer - it is fun to drive. Thanks again everyone!
I am nothing but a "Shade Tree Mechanic" and was taught by a great man - my dad (RIP). Although he would have welcomed the challenge to take on replacing the engine with me, I will need to follow better judgement and seek a professional mechanic. Sorry dad!
drtom, you are correct - it is the connector that I repaired and NOT the resistor. Sorry, too! I followed the excellent post by you and others that helped me with this. I, too, took pictures and will post as soon as time permits.
I am leaning toward staying with the 3.5 engine and have found some for sale currently online. Just looking at the warranties and then will make the decision. However, I very much appreciate the post by HUNNER and to not "pronounce it dead" yet. Currently it is at the shop and they are running the diagnostics. I will share with everyone the outcome as well as my decision based on the findings. Actually, I drove it to the shop with near shut down when coming to a stop and low idle as well as the dreaded sound of a knock. Pressures read fine and temp was in the normal range - although I did not run it long and far. I really love this hummer - it is fun to drive. Thanks again everyone!
#18
I am doing my best, finding one on the internet, since I am in Costa Rica, but it all seems like scams ... well, if anyone knows one please let me know !! Thanks !
#20
The one I checked for reference was at Weber in Annville PA. I am sure there are other junkyards. they run test all engines and a good used engine,broklen in, can be a good deal, BUT you are probably on your own based on your location since they have no control over the installation,AND shipping will be a bundle! no matter wher you get it.
I got stuff from weber and was treated very well and the parts were in great shape, not cheap. I was able to talk directly before finalizing.
they expect you to have a pro mechanic do the swap.
I would buy from a legit co. like them or a rebuilder but I personally prefer a good used engine known to be running when it was pulled or when the car was parted out. The h3's my stuff came out of looked as nice as the one I would be driving!
you should get one that matches what you have, no mods to mess with. Yore 06 is a 3.5 huh? you need to get the same to keep it simple,not a 3.7 I think.
the good news is there are guys here reporting 100000- 150000 miles and running good so a used 40000-60000mi might be a good buy.good luck
I got stuff from weber and was treated very well and the parts were in great shape, not cheap. I was able to talk directly before finalizing.
they expect you to have a pro mechanic do the swap.
I would buy from a legit co. like them or a rebuilder but I personally prefer a good used engine known to be running when it was pulled or when the car was parted out. The h3's my stuff came out of looked as nice as the one I would be driving!
you should get one that matches what you have, no mods to mess with. Yore 06 is a 3.5 huh? you need to get the same to keep it simple,not a 3.7 I think.
the good news is there are guys here reporting 100000- 150000 miles and running good so a used 40000-60000mi might be a good buy.good luck
Last edited by happythree; 10-01-2013 at 09:54 PM.
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