Quote:

Originally Posted by happythree

It cant take more to turn it as you go up,the h3 just goes up! If it was sitting on a scale it would not change the weight! It would only weigh more if it hit the ceiling,then it would be harder to crank.

All I can say is what I had done... Which is fact... Not hear say or anything else... It's not fact to you because you wasn't there, but I was.

When I began to level out my H3... I started with the passenger side. After I took the torsion bar bolt out it was completely unloaded... I took a straight edge and marked a straight line on it from end to end... Then I scooted over to the drivers side and did the same thing. (But before I unloaded it.)
After putting the spacer on and tightening the torsion bar back up on the passengers side to level it out, obviously the line was no longer straight.

When I unloaded the drivers side... The line was no longer straight also. (Obviously.) But here's the kicker... After putting the spacer on I began to torque it back up. When the line was straight... I got out from under it and could obviously tell that we were back to basically stock height. (I would tell you the exact height but I'm at work and didn't bring the numbers with me.) After turning the torsion bar bolt until it was leveled out. (not quite but you can't tell by looking) The line was no longer straight. Plain and simple.

Now that being said... I'm not saying there was a HUGE difference in the straight line... It's not like it went around and around the torsion bar. I would say it was about a 1/4 of an inch. If that, but it was definitely not straight any longer. I'm not saying that it was a big enough difference to make the rougher ride either... I'm fairly sure it had a little to do with it, if not the only reason for the firmer ride. I'm sure there are other factors involved, I've never denied that. I'm just stating my experience with leveling out (almost) my H3.

 

Ok guys new here and not try to add fuel to the spring rate fire but there is one factor missing in this whole discussion. While the t bar is anchord at one end it is attached to a lever on the other (A arm). When the torsion bars are cranked and the front is raised the angle of the a arm is changed relative to the ground resulting in a shorter distance between the tire (where force is applied) and the pivot point (A arm) this results in a minutely shorter lever meaning it takes more force to move the lever ( slightly stiffer ride or slightly more load on the t bar). Another factor to consider is now the lever is in a more perpendicular position relative to the ground and is less efficient. When A arms are parallel to the ground force is directed upward, when a arms are angled downward a portion of the force is derected toward the pivot point and frame also contribution so a slightly stiffer ride.

 

Guess you missed the "geometry" factor early on?

 

And the dispute continues!!! lolol

 

Hey all I got to say is, with all the damn postings out there on this, and from what I read, I don't know why anyone in the world would pay money on a leveling kit when it can be achieved with a stock machine... GM probably would have done it themselves if it wasn't for the .0000009 extra miles per gallon the get on the aero changes made by lowering the front ever so much...

 

I purchased a 2008 Alpha, totally stock, well cared for and am also wondering about lifting it. Read most of this thread and have to tell you, I'm still a bit confused. Spent my years as a mechanic at my dad's shop but we didn't have torsion bars back then...lol
I am looking for the best leveling solution out there. Running 33" tires so that isn't the issue. Just like a leveled look. I also understand the dynamics of the lift and possible damage that can be done. In a nutshell, kit or not, how high is perfect, what not to do and are there any drawbacks? Thanks

 

see answers in red

 

Of course I disagree... I think it depends on what you are looking for.
Absolutely nothing wrong with leveling it out, and if you can't afford a $70 front end alignment from a dealership, you shouldn't buying a 4X4 in the 1st place.
I do agree I wouldn't waist my money on leveling kit... Because the Hummer H3 is designed to to that without a kit.
As for the perfect height... That's a personal preference. If you like the way mine sits... It right at 25" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender, and that's lifting the crap out of it. I didn't go completely level which would have been 25.5"
I kept it a half inch short because
A) You can't tell without a tape measure
&
B) Because the more you lift it, the rougher of a ride you get. (regardless of the reasons) So I stayed a tad shorter... It rides and looks GREAT!!! (with 17" rims and 33" mud tires) Again... That's my opinion.

 

I agree with Bunger 100% on his post. No need for a torsion bar "reindexing" kit, 23 1/4 to 23 1/2"(max). Drive around, slam on the brakes to settle the t-bars, go back and measure and relift as necessary until you are between those #s. Take it in for an alignment after your adjustments are completed. Save the $ from buying the kit to use for your alignment!

We have done it on all 6 of ours throughout the years and I personally don't like the ride at over 23 1/2".

 

No, I didn't miss the "geometry" factor early on but apparently others did or did not understand the mechanisms involved, therefore I thought an explanation may be helpful to some. Next time why don't you explain it yourself instead of giving someone else a hard time for trying help.