Hummer H3 For the Hummer driver who wants the rugged look and off road capabilities of the Hummer, but in a smaller size and with a more fuel economy friendly engine.

Leveling kit

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  #51  
Old 01-26-2013, 06:11 PM
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I do appreciate all the info and advice guys... and will look further into it and not ignore it. Didn't mean to sound off on my reply to tainter and xlr8n, just seemed their posts about the prospect of my halfshafts and bearings coming apart were more about pokin fun than giving any advice. No hard feelings on my end. Sorry if i "ruffled any feathers".

Have a good one.

Love my Hummer.
 
  #52  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:49 PM
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Hey man, do what you want. We were trying to save you time and $, now and in the future.

Hopefully the advise in this thread will inform others who will listen to the pitfalls and future issues that will arise having the suspension set in the front to over 23 1/2".
 
  #53  
Old 01-27-2013, 08:54 AM
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[QUOTE=clickpopboom;291839]Let's take a bit of a mathematical approach to the spring rate question. A torsion bar is by definition a linear spring (meaning no variation in resistance throughout its working range), but we will go through the equation anyhow.


You should really check your definitions... That's not what linear spring means. Maybe you should try Webster.com... Or any other place for that matter.

Linear Spring is A type of spring designed so that the force deflecting the spring is in direct proportion to the distance the spring travels.

It has NOTHING to do with resistance throughout it's working range.
Did you just make that one up?
 
  #54  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bunger
CJI,
you may have many years of automotive experience and certs up the ***. But you admit to being new to Hummers.
We "seniors" have years of experience driving, wheeling and working on H3's exclusively !!!

We know what works in the real world, and know enough not to blindly trust some companies marketing info.
Originally Posted by Bunger


I'm done with the subject of "leveling". Do what ever you want to do.

Being a senior member doesn't mean you have more experience in ANYTHING except posting on this website. You become a senior member by postings... That's it.

If you're done with the leveling subject then stop dropping into the leveling thread.

I started this thread hoping someone would tell me I wasn't dumb for buying one of those advertised leveling kit. (When knowing after I got it... I was dumb!)

I did learn a lot through all the posts on here. I learned that EVERYONE thinks they are right. I learned I could have done basically the same thing with out spending $60+ on some washers I could have gotten from any hardware store for under $5.

I also learned that the web is a great place to get right and wrong answers. I also learned that if you want the truth you have to get under your truck and study by doing it yourself... Experiment too. It take less than 10 minutes to add one of those lift kits to your truck.

Al in all, I'm glad I lifted my truck... It looks great, but I do think I will get a full suspension lift this summer.

If something happens to my Hummer with the lift that's on it now... Guess what... It's under warranty!!! Don't try and tell me that it won't be covered... Cause my 2008 was lifted and it was always covered.
 

Last edited by stevelnew; 01-27-2013 at 10:35 AM.
  #55  
Old 01-27-2013, 11:11 AM
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Lifted the front for free myself after much debate on taking it to a shop for a kit install...what I noticed is when i hit certain bumps i seem to get a bang though the steering wheel sometimes, I dont know if its a placebo effect or what, but im happy with the lift overall and glad i didnt spend anything on it.
 
  #56  
Old 01-28-2013, 08:16 AM
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[QUOTE=stevelnew;292108]
Originally Posted by clickpopboom
Let's take a bit of a mathematical approach to the spring rate question. A torsion bar is by definition a linear spring (meaning no variation in resistance throughout its working range), but we will go through the equation anyhow.
Originally Posted by clickpopboom


You should really check your definitions... That's not what linear spring means. Maybe you should try Webster.com... Or any other place for that matter.

Linear Spring is A type of spring designed so that the force deflecting the spring is in direct proportion to the distance the spring travels.

It has NOTHING to do with resistance throughout it's working range.
Did you just make that one up?
If you have a direct proportion, such as 1" of deflection / 1000lbs, you will have 5" of deflection with a load of 5000lbs. Again, this means there is no variation in the spring rate.

As was already mathematically proven, spring rates can only be changed by changing the length or diameter of the material or changing the material itself.

A progressive spring typically has a change in diameter along its length, thus giving it a change in spring rate when the load is placed on that section.

Do you have any experience with physics whatsoever? Hooke proved that spring rates are a constant about 400 years ago.

Please read a physics text rather than arguing a Webster definition that proves my point a lot better than yours.
 
  #57  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:54 AM
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[SIZE=1][COLOR=red][QUOTE=clickpopboom;292166]
Originally Posted by stevelnew

If you have a direct proportion, such as 1" of deflection / 1000lbs, you will have 5" of deflection with a load of 5000lbs. Again, this means there is no variation in the spring rate.

As was already mathematically proven, spring rates can only be changed by changing the length or diameter of the material or changing the material itself.

A progressive spring typically has a change in diameter along its length, thus giving it a change in spring rate when the load is placed on that section.

Do you have any experience with physics whatsoever? Hooke proved that spring rates are a constant about 400 years ago.

Please read a physics text rather than arguing a Webster definition that proves my point a lot better than yours.



XXXXXXXXXXXX WRONG ANSWER XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

They design coil springs with tighter coils in different areas of the actual spring to change the rate of the spring in a certain area of their compression of the spring. (without changing the diameter) They are actually a bit more expensive but worth the money when fine tuning your suspension.
Total Control Products

You don't need a degree or experience in physics to know... If you were to take a torsion spring out of a vehicle and lock one end down and begin twisting the other end... It's going to become harder and harder to twist the more you turn it.

You only need a brain to figure that one out.


 
  #58  
Old 01-28-2013, 12:16 PM
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Your use of bold print isn't going to make your incorrect-ness be any less noticeable than it was in your first half-dozen posts to this thread. Just sayin'.
 
  #59  
Old 01-28-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Xlr8n
Your use of bold print isn't going to make your incorrect-ness be any less noticeable than it was in your first half-dozen posts to this thread. Just sayin'.


So you agree that you can actually take a torsion bar out of a vehicle and (theoretically) twist it a complete 360 degree and it would not get any harder by the time you got the total 360 degree? WOW?!?!?
 
  #60  
Old 01-28-2013, 02:44 PM
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[QUOTE=stevelnew;292170]
Originally Posted by clickpopboom


XXXXXXXXXXXX WRONG ANSWER XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

They design coil springs with tighter coils in different areas of the actual spring to change the rate of the spring in a certain area of their compression of the spring. (without changing the diameter) They are actually a bit more expensive but worth the money when fine tuning your suspension.
Total Control Products

You don't need a degree or experience in physics to know... If you were to take a torsion spring out of a vehicle and lock one end down and begin twisting the other end... It's going to become harder and harder to twist the more you turn it.

You only need a brain to figure that one out.


Why do you keep proving my point when you post your argument? First of all, you are talking about coil springs. Second, when you change the coil distance, you are creating a progressive spring. You cannot do this with a torsion bar- the reason the length of the bar is part of the equation to calculate the rate is because the entire length of the bar twists at the same time, not one portion at a time.
Let me spell it out for you real slow and simple like:

Torsion bars can only be linear in their spring rate- meaning that the proportion between load and deflection ( L: D) remains constant until you reach the point of material failure.

Coil springs also distribute load evenly throughout their length. Unlike a torsion bar, coil springs are mechanically limited in their travel by what is commonly referred to as "spring or coil bind" in which two or more coils touch each other and can no longer flex like normal. You can use a soft material in a coil spring and by changing the gap between coils you make the spring progressive--- after a certain amount of load the closer together coils will bind, thus making the spring rate stiffer.

Coil springs and torsion bars are two very different beasts, please don't confuse the two.
 


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