Thanks for the input on the alignment.

So when I do this, I've read that I should buy these bilsteins:

https://www.trailduty.com/product_in...roducts_id=486


What am I accomplishing by buying them? and can I get a similar result through an adjustment on the stock suspension?

Thanks
-qui

 

I'm not talking about once it had the load on the spring... I was more talking about once I couldn't turn it anymore with my hands, and after I had to put a ratchet on it to start turning it. Once it actually began to rise, it would still take approximately 5-7 turns to get a 1/4 of an inch of lift.
And I never said I could visibly see it twist... Hince the reason I put a staight line on the torsion bar... After I finished the lift, it was no longer a straight line.

 

Those shocks are installed AFTER you do the torsion bar adjustment.
They are an option. Some guys install them, some leave the OEM stock shocks in place, some add a spacer to the top of the shock mount to account for the additional travel now that the front is raised.
It's up to you if you want new shocks.
Trailduty has a package deal of (2) of those Bilstein shocks and (2) 1/2" extended bump stops for one price.
Extended bumpstops eliminate nose dive on hard braking.

https://www.trailduty.com/product_in...roducts_id=765

 

Any more newbs want to continue debating that changing the position of the T Bar increases spring rate?

As has been discussed here and at other forums, it is not a spring rate change the affects ride, it is the geometry change which exponentially gets worse when you try to lift beyond 23.5-6" finder lip to hub center. The T Bar adjustment in and of itself does not increase spring rate, it only changes its position. That T Bar has the same spring rate until you replace it with a different one.

Common misconceptions sure are tough to dispel?

 

I have one question as I've seen multiple answers on this. If I do the torsion lift, do I HAVE to get the Bilstein shocks to reduce the nose-dive/bouncy ride or am I safe to do the torsion lift being aware that it will nose dive if I have to come to an abrupt stop? I was under the impression that I could just do the lift and buy the bigger bump stops and retain the stock shocks. I've been wanting to level mine for the longest (coming from a Durango, there were no issues of nose-diving, just cranked the T-bars, got and alignment and go)...

 

For those with any further interest in the subject of torsion bar dynamics, here is a good (yet lengthy) thread that goes into great detail of explaining how the TB IFS's work: The Truth About Lifting with Torsion Bars [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

I encourage stevelnew to take note of this part of the discussion:

 

I still run the stock adventure series shocks and bump stops even with my BA Winch bumper for years. I do this to retain as much suspension travel as I can. The H3 was designed to ride with its bump stop in contact with the A Arm, which IMHO is just stupid (even if you consider them a progressive dampener). The nose dive only happens if you are hard on braking. I'll take that trade off so I can have more travel for off road.

Do the adjustments first, drive it and see if you like it, then decide if you want bump stops and/or bilsteins.

 

Agree. It's GM's attempt at progressive spring travel in an otherwise non-progressive spring design. The downside is it reduces overall suspension travel right out of the box.
The tradeoff of offroad ability vs. onroad manners I presume.

 

It's funny how you keep throwing these websites out that you think defend what you say and you act as if I don't know what I'm talking about. lol
I encourage you to go back and read the websites you keep posting...

Because actually. "The truth about lifting with Torsion Bars" is actually just another forum written by someone like you, if not you, who isn't a professional, and he even states in the 1st paragraph that this is just his opinion.
So people please don't waist your time reading "The Truth About Torsion Bars" unless you just want someone elses WRONG opinon.

Also GM torsion bar 401 that you posted... I did go read... It was a good read, and again it said exactly what I said. I even copied and pasted it for you? But apparently that wasn't good enough for you and you hate to be proven wrong.

It's funny how you keep throwing out these sites you can go to to learn the truth about torsion bars, and when it doesn't say what you want it to say, (and actually says your wrong) you go find another one to throw out there. Finally you found another forum someone started, and they actually agreed with you, but he even stated in the 1st paragraph that it was his opinon.
Obviously you are grasping for straws. You throw sites out there that contradict each other.

I just got back from McCarthy Chevrolet, and asked one of the mechanics there to correct me if I was wrong, and I explained the what was being talked about on this forum, and he stated basically everything I have been saying. Case closed for me... I've done it, I've studied it, (even from sites you suggested) and now I've talked to an actual professional... What more can one do?!?!?

People don't take my opinion and please don't take anyone elses advise as fact on ANY forum... Call your local dealership or garage... Get it staright from them, do some research and then make up your own mind.

 

Sure I will keep debating this with you. It has been discussed in other forums and most that I have read now have come to the same conclusion as I have. Now that being said... I'm not disagreeing with you or Xlr8n about the change in geomentry... That could well be true, and probably is.
What I am saying... From doing it my self... There is more load on your torsion bar when you tighten it up to raise the front of your vehicle.

The 1st side I did was the passangers side after I unloaded the torsion bar I drew a straight line on it and then retightened it just to see what happened with the straight line... Side two the drivers side, I thought I would see what difference it would make to draw the line before I unloaded it to after I lifted it... Let me tell you... The line was not even close to being the same... So OBVIOUSLY there is more of a load on the torsion bar the more you tighten it. Otherwise the line I drew would have stayed a straight line. True or false?

What makes someone a newbs anyhow? Anyone who disagrees with you?
Not sure what your experience is and you don't know mine, but I can assure you just because my last name is actualy New, doesn't make me a newb. lol I've owned 4 Hummers now, 2 (2006's)I left stock, one (2008) was lifted when I bought it already, and (put 50K on it with no issues) now this one 2009 which I just lifted myself and had an alignment this morning. let alone the 20+ years of military experience in the Marine Corps dealing with and working on the H1 for all those years.

Again I'm not dissagreeing with you on the geometry part of it... Just weather or not there is more of a load on the torsion bars as you lift it. That is the only thing we are dissagreeing on. Even your friend Xlr8n promoted websites out there that agrees that it does.