Hummer didn't survive offloading last weekend.
#21
05-18-2012, 09:10 AM
#24
05-18-2012, 10:59 AM
Rubicon is mine, Hummer is my wife's, parking lot is mine too, LOL
That being said, she has followed me a number of places in the Hummer and the vehicle definitely shows it weaknesses against the Jeep, even in instances that don't involve lockers and low range. I will say, at least the Hummer has some pretty nice tow rings for when it gets stuck.
That being said, she has followed me a number of places in the Hummer and the vehicle definitely shows it weaknesses against the Jeep, even in instances that don't involve lockers and low range. I will say, at least the Hummer has some pretty nice tow rings for when it gets stuck.
#25
05-18-2012, 11:07 AM
tires
Looks to me it would have something to do with tires. Noticed yours has mud terrian tires. While hers has the stock tires still on it. We all know 4x4 are only as good as thier shoes. 
#26
05-18-2012, 11:35 AM
Anybody want to buy them. There are 5 including the spare with a matching wheel. 95% tread left. $4120 is what this set of wheels and tires cost. Have the receipts. Make me an offer.
#27
05-18-2012, 12:35 PM
For off road on 33s, the biggest wheel you should really have is a 17", you can probably get away with 18" on 35s, but neither would be optimal.
Better would be 16" for 33s and no more than 17" for 35s.
I like my OEM 16s with 33 MTZs.
With 20s, you just limit the sidewall flex too much for serious hard core wheeling, but it is all a matter of personal choice based upon what you intend to do with your truck. It would be cool to wheel regularly, like daily, but unless the 3 is your dedicated wheeling vehicle and doesn't have to shuffle you to work, and everything else that comes along, it is all about compromise.
Better would be 16" for 33s and no more than 17" for 35s.
I like my OEM 16s with 33 MTZs.
With 20s, you just limit the sidewall flex too much for serious hard core wheeling, but it is all a matter of personal choice based upon what you intend to do with your truck. It would be cool to wheel regularly, like daily, but unless the 3 is your dedicated wheeling vehicle and doesn't have to shuffle you to work, and everything else that comes along, it is all about compromise.
#30
06-17-2012, 11:44 PM
Trust me when I say you guys are giving Jeeps far too much credit.
I can tell you straight up Jeeps have many downfalls as well. I had an '05 Jeep Rubicon for about 4 years that I just sold last fall.
Throw a set of 35" tires on a lifted Jeep and the stock axles and gears quickly become the weak link, on or offroad. The stock axleshafts and knuckles are prone to breakage with any aggressive gas pedal.
The stock TJ brakes are completely inadequate with 35's. A Jeep owner can only dream of having a brake system as high-tech and functional as the H3.
A stock Jeep TJ can only fit 31" tires without rubbing. To fit 33"s you need at least 3" of lift. Adding a decent lift to a TJ without getting driveline vibrations is a major undertaking in both time and money. For any lift higher than 2" you need a combinations of a motor mount lift, either a transfer case drop (which reduces the clearance you are attempting to get with the lift) or a TC slip yoke eliminator, new driveshaft, adjustable control arms to correct the driveshaft angle... the list goes on and on.
I had what is considered the top end offroad Jeep and I still needed to invest a ton into suspension upgrades just to run 33's and managed to explode the factory rear LSD/locker which resulted in a total rebuild. The transmission took a dump and needed a complete rebuild at 40k miles. The oil pan developed a leak at 12k miles. Both front axle seals leaked at 30k miles. The water pump and timing cover seal were replaced under warranty at 35k miles. The front driveshaft failed at less than 30k miles.
And I babied that rig with only very mild occasional offroading.
Bottom line, the grass isn't always greener.
I can tell you straight up Jeeps have many downfalls as well. I had an '05 Jeep Rubicon for about 4 years that I just sold last fall.
Throw a set of 35" tires on a lifted Jeep and the stock axles and gears quickly become the weak link, on or offroad. The stock axleshafts and knuckles are prone to breakage with any aggressive gas pedal.
The stock TJ brakes are completely inadequate with 35's. A Jeep owner can only dream of having a brake system as high-tech and functional as the H3.
A stock Jeep TJ can only fit 31" tires without rubbing. To fit 33"s you need at least 3" of lift. Adding a decent lift to a TJ without getting driveline vibrations is a major undertaking in both time and money. For any lift higher than 2" you need a combinations of a motor mount lift, either a transfer case drop (which reduces the clearance you are attempting to get with the lift) or a TC slip yoke eliminator, new driveshaft, adjustable control arms to correct the driveshaft angle... the list goes on and on.
I had what is considered the top end offroad Jeep and I still needed to invest a ton into suspension upgrades just to run 33's and managed to explode the factory rear LSD/locker which resulted in a total rebuild. The transmission took a dump and needed a complete rebuild at 40k miles. The oil pan developed a leak at 12k miles. Both front axle seals leaked at 30k miles. The water pump and timing cover seal were replaced under warranty at 35k miles. The front driveshaft failed at less than 30k miles.
And I babied that rig with only very mild occasional offroading.
Bottom line, the grass isn't always greener.
A Rubicon is equipped with Dana 44 axles front and rear, with a GAWR of 3500 pounds, and 4:10 gearing. 35's can be used with a basic chromoly axle-shaft upgrade, even with steel wheels. The beefy NV241OR transfer case is geared low enough to not require a re-gear for low range driving. Not many vehicles can handle a 35 stock anyway. Can the hummers? (nice tie rods....)
Any vehicle's brakes are inadequate with 35's if the vehicle was engineered to run a 29-31 inch tire stock, but a master cylinder and rear brake conversion can be done for cheaper than you think.
A stock TJ (SE even) CAN fit 33's, I wheel with a guy that drives a stock TJ with 33s, no rubbing with the right backspacing. And on lifted jeeps, an SYE isn't required until you reach the 4.5 inch range, and transfer-case drops are what people buy if they have never heard of a motor mount lift. Adjustable control arms are only necessary if you have to adjust caster to accommodate a more custom setup; any lift kit worth purchasing will come with a nice set of greasable control arms.
The problems you have encountered are tell tale signs of improper maintenance, and negligence during the break-in period. (especially if it was used lightly.) From what I have seen, Jeeps have been given credit where it was due, and criticism where the H3 outshines the Jeep.
In my experience in wheeling with the H3 and with the Jeeps, I found both to be great vehicles, both with downfalls, and both with features noteworthy. Bottom line..... Just because a guy once owned a jeep, doesn't mean he had the knowledge, or experience to make such claims. Can't we all just get along.
