the oil could be coming from above. the oil pressure sender on the top of the engine is notorious for leaking. as also the oil cooler line gasket above the oil filter. but pop off he inspection plate and see i it is coming from inside the bell housing. if it is then it can be the rear main seal
the wiring harness to your shift solenoids inside the transmission might be shorting causing the fuse issue. they are cheap to replace.

 

I just had my Valley Pan gasket replaced. Two of the center bolts on each side were loose. I did replace the Oil Pressure Switch replaced while it was torn down. The Valve Cover Gaskets showed no sign of leaks.

 

3250 sounds high. I would shop arond on that number.

 

or just have the trans cooler lines repaired and try snug the oil pan bolts

 

What about that rear main leak?

 

if its bad then needs attention if just a few drops here and there try a sealer like ATP 205 or bluedevil rear main stop leak. but you will have to re add it with every oil change if it works for you. it might prolong the seal a while longer until you decide the outcome.

 

 

Get a torque wrench and tighten all the Trans Pan bolts to 12 lb ft.

 

Seriously, you would not consider replacement, even at that price? Spending that much $$ on a high mileage engine, with potential excessive bearing wear, for a $10.00 seal replacement, is nuts!
Why not try--> BlueDevil Worth a shot at $15!
If that doesn't work, put that repair money towards a new/reman replacement engine!
Btw, even if you lose 1 quart a week, full synthetic @ around $7qt= It would take over 7yrs to spend that much on new oil.

 

Just make sure to monitor the engine oil level. Keep it full and no problem. I've had customers over the years that I advised of engine oil leaks, with them stating they add regularly and also saving on oil changes. It all comes down to the cost to fix the leak vs engine replacement. I always use leak detection dye to find the leak, if your leak is only at the bottom of the engine, that rules out cheap repairs.