Any ideas WHICH actuator would control BLASTING, TURBO HOT HEAT to BOTH SIDES...

My Climate Control Unit shifts air to defrost, but it is JET ENGINE EXHAUST HOT, then I can shift it to the FACE setting, TURBO HOT, floor and back... TURBO HOT, so the actuators that control where the air blows appear to work, it is the TEMP CONTROL that seems to be locked on HOT. CRAZY HOT!

I am actually afraid when on recycle, it will melt something in the dash. I bought a new Dorman Climate Control Unit... that sucked, it died after hours of installing it. I have rebooted the system, unhooked bat cable, pulled fuses, the only thing I have not tried is arcing the neg cable to the positive.

(I think this all started, when preparing for a trip, I bought a portable battery booster and decided to test to see if it would jump my Hummer before relying on it during the trip... I removed the neg cable, hooked the bat booster up to the neg cable and to the positive cable which remained on the battery, the bat boost failed to jump start the Hummer, but after putting everything back together... Next day when leaving for family vacation to Yellowstone, AC WAS A HOT JET ENGINE EXHAUST.)

Any advice on WHICH and WHERE the TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER would be that would change the HOT to COLD for BOTH SIDES would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jon Dize
DIZEMAN Photography

 

If you dont have access to a Tech2, try pulling the HVAC/ECAS fuse (under hood) for a few minutes and then reinstall it. Turn the ignition to run and let the AC recalibrate, during this time do not touch any controls, you should hear the ac actuators moving. Wait a minute or two then turn the key off then start the truck and see if anything has changed.

Neal

 

See one of the other multiple threads you replied to for this. The odds that BOTH actuators failed simultanously seems very very low to me. More likely the climate control unit malfunctioned with the crazy power fluctuations. Maybe you get lucky and it just needs reset.

Also, why would you disconnect the negative battery cable when trying to boost it????? A booster (or even a jump start) relies on the battery still being connected to take the charge from the booster or jumper cables to assist with the boost and to hold the load as it starts and begins running. Without the negative cable disconnected you are placing the entire system electrical load fully on the booster (or jumper cables) which neither are designed or intended to be able to do. It is quite possible that the severely reduced current and load capacity of trying to boost it that way damaged the booster as well as the climate module as it was probably rapidly getting full power to no power to full power with each revolution of the starter or each attempt to start while making the booster cables extremely hot in a hurry.

Also whenever the climate control is resetting NEVER touch any buttons for about 60 seconds once you apply power.

 

MixManSC

Thanks for getting back to me... between posting the request and getting a notice of your response in the email, I did the following... I pulled all fuses associated with the AC both under the hood and in the side of the driver's side dash. Then attempted to reboot the electronics as suggested in several videos on YouTube.

I had my local mechanic to has been working on my truck for two years come over... he was insanely busy, but he came over between jobs and said everything forward of the firewall was good, must be either the temp blender door actuator or the Climate Control Module.

I went to AUTOZONE and bought a NEW Dorman 599-211 Climate Control Module... it was broken right out of the box, would not calibrate, back lighted buttons were not lit.

After yanking it back out, I thought for a second and realized, the OEM AC DELCO I removed showed the same issues as the known broken NEW replacement, the OEM would not calibrate, and the back lighted buttons began to fail, so...

I decided the odds were good the OEM Climate Control Module was very likely dead... causing my problem.

SO, I returned the DEAD NEW Climate Control Module to AUTOZONE and they gave me another NEW Dorman 599-211 unit, which I went home and installed.

Here is a link to the video of my installing the SECOND NEW replacement Climate Control Module.

IT WORKED!!!! It configured as it should, which neither of the previous two did and all of the buttons are lit. AND THE AIR IS NOW COLD!


Thanks again for your advice and help!
I sincerely appreciate it!

Jon Dize
DIZEMAN Photography

 

Thanks a bunch Neal! I discovered a fix, prior to my getting the email notice that you responded. I sincerely appreciate your advice and being so quick to respond.

Thanks for getting back to me... between posting the request and getting a notice of your response in the email, I did the following... I pulled all fuses associated with the AC both under the hood and in the side of the driver's side dash. Then attempted to reboot the electronics as suggested in several videos on YouTube.

I had my local mechanic to has been working on my truck for two years come over... he was insanely busy, but he came over between jobs and said everything forward of the firewall was good, must be either the temp blender door actuator or the Climate Control Module.

I went to AUTOZONE and bought a NEW Dorman 599-211 Climate Control Module... it was broken right out of the box, would not calibrate, back lighted buttons were not lit.

After yanking it back out, I thought for a second and realized, the OEM AC DELCO I removed showed the same issues as the known broken NEW replacement, the OEM would not calibrate, and the back lighted buttons began to fail, so...

I decided the odds were good the OEM Climate Control Module was very likely dead... causing my problem.

SO, I returned the DEAD NEW Climate Control Module to AUTOZONE and they gave me another NEW Dorman 599-211 unit, which I went home and installed.

Here is a link to the video of my installing the SECOND NEW replacement Climate Control Module.

IT WORKED!!!! It configured as it should, which neither of the previous two did and all of the buttons are lit. AND THE AIR IS NOW COLD!


Thanks again for your advice and help!
I sincerely appreciate it!

Jon Dize
DIZEMAN Photography

 

Just gonna give this a lil bump as I am about to take on this task!

 

@DIZEMAN

Thank you for this video. My 2003 H2 has had similiar issues with hot air on the passenger side and room temperature (not really cold) on the driver side. When I bought the used H2 in 2021, it was the same problem, and my local mechanic said it was a broken blend door (not the actuator). So they epoxied the blend door and check all of the other AC stuff and it was fixed, albeit a costly repair because of the labor to disassemble everything!Fast forward to this summer, and the passenger side was scalding hot like you describe. I took it back to the mechanic who said the passenger blend door seems to be broken again. I dont know how it could have broken, but that replacement part does not exist in the US at all! On the driver's side does but it is completely different.


I will try to reprogram the module like your video states, but I was wondering if you would have any other inside =(

Thank you again for your video.