Finally, a fix for clogged sunroof drain tubes
#1
Finally, a fix for clogged sunroof drain tubes
Sorry guys, I tried to do a 'cut & paste' of my original thread to move it from FAQ to the main forum, figuring it would get more exposure, and lost it all in the process. Finally got around to re-post:
I've been lucky, and haven't had a problem yet, but didn't want to wait until I had a drenched interior before I found a fix. The drains are rubber hoses that come from the sunroof, and then plug into rigid plastic tubing behind the driver's and passenger side 'A' pillar trim panels. The rigid tubing is shaped to follow contours behind the instrument panel, where it then plugs into a rubber grommet that goes through the firewall and drains behind the wheel well inner panels. This whole fix is done entirely from the interior of the truck. Start by removing the instrument, side trim panels, and the 'A' pillar trim panels (a phillips screw behind the 'Air Bag' trim plug...also unplug the tweeter so you can remove the panel) (pic's 1-4). I've included a pic from HUMMERZ, showing the location of the grommet behind the tach (pic 5). Reach up behind the tach, and unplug the grommet from the firewall. On passenger side reach through side panel, over the top of the steel support brace (pic 6), and unplug from the firewall. The driver's side hose is black, and goes into black tubing, the passenger side hose is black, and goes into white tubing. The hose is held with tape onto green retainers (pic 3). Carefully cut the tape from the 2 lower retainers on each side with an X-acto so the hose, tube and grommet can be pulled out (pic 7). CAUTION!! WHEN PULLING HOSE, TUBING AND GROMMET THROUGH 'A' PILLAR, BE SURE TO ONLY BEND/FLEX THE RUBBER HOSE, NOT THE RIGID PLASTIC TUBING!! SAME THING WHEN REINSTALLING!! The grommet can be pulled off the end of the tubing (pic 8). Look in the end of the grommet, and you'll see why the tubes get clogged. There's a molded in 'cross cut' that traps even small debris (pic 9). Take an X-acto and carefully cut that piece out (pic 10), and replace grommet on tube. Take some electrical tape, and tape the grommet to the tube to be sure it doesn't come off during re-installation (pic 11). Plug grommets back into holes in firewall, replace trim panels, and you should not have anymore leak problems. It probably took me longer to write this thread and take pics then the entire job took.
I've been lucky, and haven't had a problem yet, but didn't want to wait until I had a drenched interior before I found a fix. The drains are rubber hoses that come from the sunroof, and then plug into rigid plastic tubing behind the driver's and passenger side 'A' pillar trim panels. The rigid tubing is shaped to follow contours behind the instrument panel, where it then plugs into a rubber grommet that goes through the firewall and drains behind the wheel well inner panels. This whole fix is done entirely from the interior of the truck. Start by removing the instrument, side trim panels, and the 'A' pillar trim panels (a phillips screw behind the 'Air Bag' trim plug...also unplug the tweeter so you can remove the panel) (pic's 1-4). I've included a pic from HUMMERZ, showing the location of the grommet behind the tach (pic 5). Reach up behind the tach, and unplug the grommet from the firewall. On passenger side reach through side panel, over the top of the steel support brace (pic 6), and unplug from the firewall. The driver's side hose is black, and goes into black tubing, the passenger side hose is black, and goes into white tubing. The hose is held with tape onto green retainers (pic 3). Carefully cut the tape from the 2 lower retainers on each side with an X-acto so the hose, tube and grommet can be pulled out (pic 7). CAUTION!! WHEN PULLING HOSE, TUBING AND GROMMET THROUGH 'A' PILLAR, BE SURE TO ONLY BEND/FLEX THE RUBBER HOSE, NOT THE RIGID PLASTIC TUBING!! SAME THING WHEN REINSTALLING!! The grommet can be pulled off the end of the tubing (pic 8). Look in the end of the grommet, and you'll see why the tubes get clogged. There's a molded in 'cross cut' that traps even small debris (pic 9). Take an X-acto and carefully cut that piece out (pic 10), and replace grommet on tube. Take some electrical tape, and tape the grommet to the tube to be sure it doesn't come off during re-installation (pic 11). Plug grommets back into holes in firewall, replace trim panels, and you should not have anymore leak problems. It probably took me longer to write this thread and take pics then the entire job took.
Last edited by Broken Halo; 08-09-2012 at 05:46 PM.
#4
cut?, copy
here is a copy and paste,
Sorry guys, I tried to do a 'cut & paste' of my original thread to move it from FAQ to the main forum, figuring it would get more exposure, and lost it all in the process. Finally got around to re-post:
here is a cut and paste of part of the above,actually a cut,then a copy,
"Sorry guys, I tried to it would get more exposure, and lost it all in the process. Finally got around to re-post
don't "cut",it deletes that highlighted stuff
Sorry guys, I tried to do a 'cut & paste' of my original thread to move it from FAQ to the main forum, figuring it would get more exposure, and lost it all in the process. Finally got around to re-post:
here is a cut and paste of part of the above,actually a cut,then a copy,
"Sorry guys, I tried to it would get more exposure, and lost it all in the process. Finally got around to re-post
don't "cut",it deletes that highlighted stuff
#8
It's the same setup as the front, but a lot harder to do, as you'll need to pull the left and right trim panels in the cargo area to get to the grommets. That's one of the advantages of not cranking the T-bars.....the vehicle's rake angle makes the water in the sunroof drainage channels flow towards the front (unless you're parked on an incline). That's why you always hear people having water come in from the front area.
#9
Update- I just went out a did the fronts as Broken Halo described, only I used a 3/8" drill bit that I ran through the grommet which removed the x-shaped flaps but did not harm the rest of the opening. By removing the X, you can now insert the rigid tubing past the grommet and hanging into the firewall itself.
One observation: If you have extra big hands and wrists, you may need an assistant with smaller hands to help out. I was just barely able to navigate the grommets back into the firewall holes and have a couple scrapes from the dash brackets.
I found a bunch of crud and bits in the passenger side grommet even though I still had flow. It now flows 10 x faster than before. I poured a watering can into the trough and it ran out immediately. Using a garden hose I sprayed some water toward the back drains. Both back sides drain, but not nearly as good as the fronts. I may pull the trim and do the backs as well, but I agree with Halo that the fronts being clear will probably handle enough water to prevent any leaks.
Good write-up bud!
One observation: If you have extra big hands and wrists, you may need an assistant with smaller hands to help out. I was just barely able to navigate the grommets back into the firewall holes and have a couple scrapes from the dash brackets.
I found a bunch of crud and bits in the passenger side grommet even though I still had flow. It now flows 10 x faster than before. I poured a watering can into the trough and it ran out immediately. Using a garden hose I sprayed some water toward the back drains. Both back sides drain, but not nearly as good as the fronts. I may pull the trim and do the backs as well, but I agree with Halo that the fronts being clear will probably handle enough water to prevent any leaks.
Good write-up bud!