Hello. New to the forum. The other night, I went to my daughters ballgame about 2hrs away. On the way home, we stopped to eat. We came out after eating and I started the hummer up and got several errors and failures flashing on the dash so I shut it off. When I tried to restart it, it would not turn over at all, and the passlock security light was on and stayed on solid. I had it towed back to where I live to my local gut who does all my work. Yesterday, he unhookwd the battery for a bit and hooked it back up. When he turned the key on then, the passlock light would come on and go off like normal. We then went through the turn the key to the on position for 10 mins and back off and try to restart security reset process like it says to do 3 times. Now the hummer will crank, but won't start and the passlock security light is off, but the check engine light stays on. It acts like it is not getting gas to the injectors for some reason. He hooked a computer to it under the dash under the steering wheel and there were no codes or errors. We can also here the fuel pump engage as well. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

If the CEL is ON, there is a stored code somewhere. How many mikes on it?

Does it have a sunroof? If so, has the passenger side floor ever gotten wet?

Easy stuff first.
Does it still have the crappy azzed OEM battery terminal connectors? If so, hack them off immediately and replace with your favorite aftermarket brand, like Stingers. The OEM battery terminal connectors are the known #1 cause for H3/3T electrical gremlins.

 

It has 194,000 miles on it. It does have a sunroof but the passenger floor has never gotten wet. It does have the old OEM cables on it still. Another question. I was told to check the O2 sensore and the MAF sensor this morning. Could the OEM cables, the O2 sensor, or the MAF sensor be causing it to crank and no get fuel to the injectors.

 

Also, where would the code be stored. Like I said, he hooked a computer up to it under the dash, under the steering wheel yesterday and it didn't show any codes or anything like that.

 

First things first....
Battery connectors.
Then take it from there.

 

O2 sensor and/or MAF would not stop it from firing.

You may still have a Passlock problem caused by a bad ignition switch, but do the easy stuff first.

You said "he plugged in a computer... no code" ... I get that. I have no idea who "he" is, or what "computer" he used. He may not know his **** from a hole in the wall and some basic scanner will not read all systems.

 

Ok my friend. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. So 1st things 1st, I need to replace the old OEM connectors on the battery. I did replace the ignition switch a cpl of years ago while it went out on vacation. My question if the ignition switch is bad, can I buy a new one and just use the electrical part of it on the ignition cylinder I have so I won't have to reprogram everything through a dealership? Also, this is a very small town and "he" is not a major mechanic. So the little handheld computer he used, he hooked up to the ecm under the dash and got no codes or readings. Once again, thank you for taking the time to try and help me resolve this problem. I'm just trying to get as much information as I can before I go back to his shop so I can relay it to him and hopefully get this problem resolved.

 

You can replace the ignition switch w/o a reprogram. There are some pretty good threads here on that topic, search em out. Hopefully they will help.

 

My 2007 H3 would sometimes/often crank but not fire. I would have to wait 10 minutes and try again. Most of the time, it would start the second try, but not always. One day I noticed that if I just turned the key enough to crank, without following through on full rotation, it will always start. Full rotation appears to trip something in the security system that shuts down the trucks ability to start for 10 minutes. That's my experience. Hope it helps you. Good luck!

 

interesting,,,,