Transmission Shift Cable Bushing - 2005 H2
#12
10-09-2020, 08:07 PM
yeah sure hummerz. there is no pin. the bushing shaft is riveted on you only have about an inch of clearance and the lever is up in the body not below the trans tunnel. how do you drill it out then?
#13
10-11-2020, 06:51 PM
Thanks for the replies. I swapped out the plastic bushing and bought a couple extras to keep in the glove box. Coffeydp, thank you for the picture detail. I think I might try that.
iwillnc, I took it to my mechanic to assess the cable and there's nothing wrong with it. I'm definitely not trying to take the cheap route to save $50. Just trying to stop the madness of replacing plastic pieces.
iwillnc, I took it to my mechanic to assess the cable and there's nothing wrong with it. I'm definitely not trying to take the cheap route to save $50. Just trying to stop the madness of replacing plastic pieces.
The cable end is what fails, the actual mechanism works but the end is what breaks. The metal bar it connects to on the transmission is a basic piece.
Regardless of what your mechanic is telling you the plastic “fix” grommets are temporary solutions. I bought two - first lasted a year, second lasted 8 months. I’m over 3 years on the new cable and it’s flawless I don’t worry about it anymore. I used to fear parking on hills and breaking the bushing shifting out of park when the transmission was holding the vehicle - no more it feels solid.
Once you install the new cable you’ll understand the adjustment in the cable that overtime goes out.
Im telling you a new cable is the correct solution, it’s relatively inexpensive and you can forget about failures for at least 15 years that the original seems to last.
Last edited by iwillnc; 10-11-2020 at 06:57 PM.
#14
10-11-2020, 07:24 PM
IT'S A >>>>>PIN! With cable removed and wheels chocked, the lever will move to any position that works for you. 
#15
10-11-2020, 07:40 PM
The problem IS the cable as the bushing is a part of the cable and failure of the bushing is a failure of the cable.
The cable end is what fails, the actual mechanism works but the end is what breaks. The metal bar it connects to on the transmission is a basic piece.
Regardless of what your mechanic is telling you the plastic “fix” grommets are temporary solutions. I bought two - first lasted a year, second lasted 8 months. I’m over 3 years on the new cable and it’s flawless I don’t worry about it anymore. I used to fear parking on hills and breaking the bushing shifting out of park when the transmission was holding the vehicle - no more it feels solid.
Once you install the new cable you’ll understand the adjustment in the cable that overtime goes out.
Im telling you a new cable is the correct solution, it’s relatively inexpensive and you can forget about failures for at least 15 years that the original seems to last.
The cable end is what fails, the actual mechanism works but the end is what breaks. The metal bar it connects to on the transmission is a basic piece.
Regardless of what your mechanic is telling you the plastic “fix” grommets are temporary solutions. I bought two - first lasted a year, second lasted 8 months. I’m over 3 years on the new cable and it’s flawless I don’t worry about it anymore. I used to fear parking on hills and breaking the bushing shifting out of park when the transmission was holding the vehicle - no more it feels solid.
Once you install the new cable you’ll understand the adjustment in the cable that overtime goes out.
Im telling you a new cable is the correct solution, it’s relatively inexpensive and you can forget about failures for at least 15 years that the original seems to last.
#17
10-12-2020, 07:50 AM
You can't be serious? The bushing is the failure! Poor design and if you've ever had to crawl underneath in the middle of the street with traffic, to shift your transmission, you would find a PERMANENT way to prevent that from happening again! Now, I never worry! Btw, never had to replace shift cable.
#18
10-12-2020, 05:32 PM
You need to understand the cause of failure! The bushing is there, to prevent damage to the cable! If the bushing fails, replace the bushing and find the source of the failure. Pin degrades, bushing seizes to pin, bushing wears out, cable pops off, yet no damage to the cable.Pictures for you to see where the failure happens:
NO DAMAGE TO CABLES:
NEW BUSHING INSTALLED:
NOW LOOK AT THE PIN THAT THE BUSHING IS MOUNTED TO(from pictures posted above):
#19
10-12-2020, 08:58 PM
he had to drill out that pin. clearly visible in the picture you posted above. as i stated. almost impossible to do with the gear selector arm mounted to the transmission which is why i heeded the warning that the nut can shear off the transmission.
#20
10-13-2020, 09:33 AM
You need to understand the cause of failure! The bushing is there, to prevent damage to the cable! If the bushing fails, replace the bushing and find the source of the failure. Pin degrades, bushing seizes to pin, bushing wears out, cable pops off, yet no damage to the cable.Pictures for you to see where the failure happens:
NO DAMAGE TO CABLES:
NEW BUSHING INSTALLED:
NOW LOOK AT THE PIN THAT THE BUSHING IS MOUNTED TO(from pictures posted above):
In both of my failures it was due to a combined failure of replacement bushing material and the fact that the replacement is directionally installed and therefore is susceptible to falling out as it is removed - from the very beginning there was some play in both replacement bushings.
The brand new replacement cable is perfectly tight with zero play, it has been flawless and has a mechanism that locks the bushing onto the transmission rod.
Replacement bushing does not have this mechanism and instead relies on locking in place with pressure against the indent on the shaft.
The different between the stock design and the replacement bushing is stark and precise. If you want the correct replacement then buy the new cable. No point in worrying about screws/washers etc when cables are readily available for purchase and solve the problem.