Service Air Suspension Failure
#1
Service Air Suspension Failure
Rear suspension just dropped (2004 H2), with the 4wd lights all off and lift light continuous flashing. I need to find the right part number & buy it online as the dealership over here quoted a ridiculous cost for Compressor in Feb 2022, when I had that happen The rears used to drop randomly, and then lift up fine...
In Feb, dealership said (the below parts need to be replaced) I opted out on the Compressor, as the cost was ridiculous and they advised to start with changing the remaining parts to see if it fixes the issue.. it did, until yesterday (so about 10 months later)
skimmed thru another thread and saw a compressor quoted to someone @ $2800 ..really?
In that case, any suggestions to just swap out to aftermarket springs, i never use the lift anyways.
In Feb, dealership said (the below parts need to be replaced) I opted out on the Compressor, as the cost was ridiculous and they advised to start with changing the remaining parts to see if it fixes the issue.. it did, until yesterday (so about 10 months later)
- Spring, RR Air (Replaced) - no part number in invoice
- Tube, Auto LVL Cont Air CMPR LH N257 (06) 2003-05 (Replaced)
- Tube, Auto LVL Cont Air CMPR RH (Replaced) - no part number in invoice
- COMPR LVL Cont Air N257 (06/36)2005 (Opted out as they quoted in $ about 4,000...crazy!)
skimmed thru another thread and saw a compressor quoted to someone @ $2800 ..really?
In that case, any suggestions to just swap out to aftermarket springs, i never use the lift anyways.
Last edited by majj35; 12-20-2022 at 06:12 AM.
#2
Google more. That compressor I bought for about $2800 Canadian. Rock auto had it for around $1500 USD. The Euro aftermarket version was about the same price or $1200. These were made in Europe, even OEM. That is all I can remember.
The tubing is just SMC brand and dirt cheap on a roll. Google that or look at my prior posts.
Look at my post hereon Hummer Forums about it, and the reason why it fails. And how to fix that and prevent future failure.
Unless price recently doubled, the dealer is ripping you off at $4K just for the part, not including tubing, labor, and airbags. You sure?
The tubing is just SMC brand and dirt cheap on a roll. Google that or look at my prior posts.
Look at my post hereon Hummer Forums about it, and the reason why it fails. And how to fix that and prevent future failure.
Unless price recently doubled, the dealer is ripping you off at $4K just for the part, not including tubing, labor, and airbags. You sure?
Last edited by finall; 12-20-2022 at 05:19 PM.
#3
At this point i don't want to fix the bags anymore and have them fail again later. The ride is disastrous right now and need to replace asap so I wanna go with the conversion.
I'll replace the fronts as well with whatever rears im getting. Could you please suggest what best options to go with (OEM height) no lifts/drops...
Arnott
Strutmasters -
what else.. thank you
I'll replace the fronts as well with whatever rears im getting. Could you please suggest what best options to go with (OEM height) no lifts/drops...
Arnott
Strutmasters -
what else.. thank you
#4
finall’s post here:
”2007 Hummer H2 Air Ride Compressor Replacement
First, thanks to all forum members, especially oceanbrave for giving me the confidence to attempt this repair.
Notes:
1. The new air compressor (build date 2018) now has the exhaust solenoid sending exhaust back thru its compressor. That explains why the exhaust filter and tube are now referred to as the “intake/Exhaust System”.
Build in England by Dunlop.
The old compressor (built circa 2007) has the solenoid venting exhaust out of a nipple mounted to the solenoid.
There were a ton of loose wires exposed. Some are quite thin. I used black wire loom to sleeve as many exposed wires as possible, and to tidy up the wiring mess. And a mess it was.
In the photos you can see black vacuum plugs inserted in the 3 holes where the 1/8" tubing goes. And 2 orange caps on the compressors show where the air filter 3/8" hoses plug in.
2. The air filter is serviceable. Carefully slide the vinyl protector cap down the tube, pry apart the air filter by pushing in 2 plastic tangs, and wash out the filtering materials.
My filter and tubing was full of mud. Because the filter is unbelievably stupidly mounted behind the LR tire. Exposed to mud kicked up by the tire eventually found its way thru the filtering material.
3. That explains the failure of the original air ride. It was full of mud. You could see it in the old tubing. The exterior of the old air ride, unlike some photo seen, was not corroded. Because I regularly wash the underbody and squirt water over the compressor assembly to wash out debris and salt.
4. I extended the length of the 3/8” ID black tubing, so I could relocate the air filter next to the gas cap assembly. I zip-tied it to the gas filler neck, as high as possible. Done by removing the gas filler lid and plastic bucket.
The identical tubing was purchased from a dealer selling SMC brand, and is indistinguishable from the original. Identical 3/8” ID straight and T- connectors were purchased from local auto parts store for pennies.
(https://www.smcusa.com/products/fitt...s/Tubing~22059
5. Contrary to other posts, the service manuals, and everything else I read, the system did NOT require any calibration tools nor the Tech2.
6. Important steps:
First disconnect battery or pull 2 underhood fuse box air ride fuses).
Detaching the 2 air intakes (1 per compressor).
Unbolt old air ride, dropping it a few inches, and supporting with wood blocks or milk crates underneath.
Only then was air line disconnection attempted.
The system was still pressurized.
Vehicle was blocked and supported from dropping.
I wiggled the connector to the air shock, and it burped air slowly.
Once all air pressure was out of the system. I disconnected the 2 air shocks, the accessory (toy) inflator line.
2 electrical connectors were then released, along with 2 plastic trees holding the wiring harness on the air ride assembly.
7. New air ride was installed. Fuses reinstalled. Vehicle turned on. The system immediately pumped up and leveled itself, to exactly the old settings. Did not throw any codes. No Tech2 tool required.”
Post #23 on this thread:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-44542/page3/
”2007 Hummer H2 Air Ride Compressor Replacement
First, thanks to all forum members, especially oceanbrave for giving me the confidence to attempt this repair.
Notes:
1. The new air compressor (build date 2018) now has the exhaust solenoid sending exhaust back thru its compressor. That explains why the exhaust filter and tube are now referred to as the “intake/Exhaust System”.
Build in England by Dunlop.
The old compressor (built circa 2007) has the solenoid venting exhaust out of a nipple mounted to the solenoid.
There were a ton of loose wires exposed. Some are quite thin. I used black wire loom to sleeve as many exposed wires as possible, and to tidy up the wiring mess. And a mess it was.
In the photos you can see black vacuum plugs inserted in the 3 holes where the 1/8" tubing goes. And 2 orange caps on the compressors show where the air filter 3/8" hoses plug in.
2. The air filter is serviceable. Carefully slide the vinyl protector cap down the tube, pry apart the air filter by pushing in 2 plastic tangs, and wash out the filtering materials.
My filter and tubing was full of mud. Because the filter is unbelievably stupidly mounted behind the LR tire. Exposed to mud kicked up by the tire eventually found its way thru the filtering material.
3. That explains the failure of the original air ride. It was full of mud. You could see it in the old tubing. The exterior of the old air ride, unlike some photo seen, was not corroded. Because I regularly wash the underbody and squirt water over the compressor assembly to wash out debris and salt.
4. I extended the length of the 3/8” ID black tubing, so I could relocate the air filter next to the gas cap assembly. I zip-tied it to the gas filler neck, as high as possible. Done by removing the gas filler lid and plastic bucket.
The identical tubing was purchased from a dealer selling SMC brand, and is indistinguishable from the original. Identical 3/8” ID straight and T- connectors were purchased from local auto parts store for pennies.
(https://www.smcusa.com/products/fitt...s/Tubing~22059
5. Contrary to other posts, the service manuals, and everything else I read, the system did NOT require any calibration tools nor the Tech2.
6. Important steps:
First disconnect battery or pull 2 underhood fuse box air ride fuses).
Detaching the 2 air intakes (1 per compressor).
Unbolt old air ride, dropping it a few inches, and supporting with wood blocks or milk crates underneath.
Only then was air line disconnection attempted.
The system was still pressurized.
Vehicle was blocked and supported from dropping.
I wiggled the connector to the air shock, and it burped air slowly.
Once all air pressure was out of the system. I disconnected the 2 air shocks, the accessory (toy) inflator line.
2 electrical connectors were then released, along with 2 plastic trees holding the wiring harness on the air ride assembly.
7. New air ride was installed. Fuses reinstalled. Vehicle turned on. The system immediately pumped up and leveled itself, to exactly the old settings. Did not throw any codes. No Tech2 tool required.”
Post #23 on this thread:
https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...e-44542/page3/
#5
Thank you Bagpype, appreciate it. but I'm no longer interested in repairing or troubleshooting the airbags anymore. I've had issues happen over and over and I keep fixing it so I'm just looking to get rid of bags, and go with coils.. started a new thread here for swap kit suggestions for coils & shocks. (AIR SUSPENSION TO COILS CONVERSION)
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